I spent about two weeks in Saudi Arabia in early 2023. I was generally impressed. Very few tourists were there. About the only westerners I saw were in a Riyadh airport hotel and at Al Ula / Hegra, and even there, not a whole lot.

I had three days in the Riyadh area. Riyadh itself was not super-interesting. Downtown Riyadh has a few former royal palaces and an old fort, which are largely interesting due to how small and modest they are. The National Museum was closed for renovations, and I couldn't find at least one other museum. Diriyah was interesting - it had just opened to the public when I visited. I spent day on a very long day trip to Hail and Jubbah - flew to Hail in the morning, had a driver take to me to Jubbah and back, and flew back to Riyadh. Jubbah has some very nice petroglyphs - the first I had ever seen that included camels. Hail had a few forts that I saw from the outside - it was the capital of a separate emirate before it became part of the third Saudi state.

Note that if you use Google Maps to look for places when planning a vacation, I found less information in Saudi Arabia than in some places, I think simply because of how young the tourism industry is - fewer people have added / annotated, information.

I spent five days in the interior - I began and ended in Tabuk and did a big loop of driving. Spent the first day west of Tabuk. There is a Nabatean site, Mugha’ir Shu’ayb, similar to Al Ula, but not quite as impressive, some sites with biblical connections, Neom - couldn't find much evidence of it, and drove along the coast. Second day, saw a few sites in Tabuk, drove to Al Ula and saw it in the afternoon. Then spent two full days in the Al Ula area - besides the Hegra complex, there is also old Al Ula, the once-irrigated areas, some other tombs, petroglyphs, Elephant Rock, an overlook site, etc. I recommend buying tickets for all the sites where you can buy tickets - pretty straightforward. On the last day, I drove back to Tabuk along a different highway. The rock formations were very interesting, similar to parts of the American Southwest, and stopped in an oasis area, Wadi Ad Disah, where a driver in a Jeep took me around an narrow oasis at the base of a canyon, which had a creek, palm trees, etc. Definitely worth stopping there. Then continued on to Tabuk and flew to Jeddah.

Traffic in Riyadh, Jeddah, and Madiniah was bad, but there was very little traffic outside of cities.

I had five days in the Jeddah area. On the first, I did a day trip by air to Madinah. Non-Muslims can go anywhere in Madinah apart from the Prophet's Mosque and the plaza immediately surrounding it. I had a taxi driver for the day who didn't speak a word of English, but as I had maps of where I wanted to go, it all worked out. Many historic mosques, a few sites of old battles, some cemeteries, and some museums. The people watching was interesting - large groups of people from pretty much every country in the world, or every with a Muslim population anyways. I had a day in Jeddah itself. Not lots to see there. The old city center was scenic but pretty run down. Some of the old buildings and museums were closed - throughout the country, a number of attractions normally open were closed for renovated, to be ready for what is believed / hoped to be a boom in tourism - maybe they are open again now. A half-day is sufficient. There is one fairly bonkers museum, Al Tayebat International City, that is worth visiting. Each of Riyadh, Jeddah, and Taif has one weird museum, privately owned, that consists of a large collection of random stuff. Each is worth visiting and each is open quite late into the evening. Then did a long day trip to Taif. Not a lot to see there - some of the sites were run down, some were closed. The drive there and back into the mountains was nice. Had to skirt around Makkah. Many signs indicate where you have to exit highways,but sometimes you can be routed even further around the city than what's on the signs if there is a pop-up security checkpoint. I went snorkeling in the Red Sea, which was nice.

There are speeding cameras on the highways. I tried to be careful but still got speeding tickets - never learned exactly how many (I was only aware of the flash at night from one camera), just a large bill from the rental car company (which suggested more than one)

Overall, Hegra/Al Ula was the most interesting site, and Madinah was the second most interesting. If I had two weeks to do it again, I would probably have done more or less the same sites with the same time allocation noted above. One thing that I would consider changing would be how I got around. Rather than do a big loop of driving beginning and ending in Tabuk, followed by flying to Jeddah, and day trips by air to Medinah and ground to Taif, I might have done a one-way car rental (if not cost-prohibitive) of 8 days or so, beginning in Tabuk and ending in Jeddah: sites west of Tabuk, Tabuk, Wadi Ad Disah, Al Ula / Hegra, possibly other sites in the desert between Al Ula and Medinah, Madinah (given the traffic, I would park the car somewhere and get a taxi driver for the day), possibly other sites in the desert between Madinah and Taif like Wabah Crater, Taif, and then Jeddah.