Rio de Janeiro to Santiago aboard Regent Seven Seas’ Splendor…Antarctica.

This trip report will cover some early tours, but mostly the ship, ADA issues, Penthouse suite life, dining and off ship transport including air flights. The trip is slightly less than a month.

We are celebrating our 50th anniversary on this trip. So, to set the stage: wife and I are 80; I use a cane most of the time; she has bouts of sciatica; we are very experienced cruisers; we have a history of lots of flying; and we contribute to Flyer Talk and appreciate all the help we get from its members.

Our journey began January 2025 with a pick-up from home to SAN, about 35 miles. We used a service for transport which cost almost $500 round trip. The cost was zero to us, as the cruise line gave us a voucher for the transport company. First class service and vehicle comfort, but way to costly to use on our own dime! Our AA flight was from SAN to DFW and then on to GIG (Rio de Janeiro). We are signed up for wheelchair assist on all legs of our trip. We walked from the counterat SAN, as there would have been a wait for wheelchairs and we had lots of time before our flight. As Global, we were able to use PRE-check. It helps not to have to remove shoes and belt when you use a cane. Fortunately, I can walk thru the machine without my cane, otherwise they had an alternative cane to use while your cane goes thru the scanner.

We were turned away at the Aspire Lounge, as we did not qualify! I was sure that flying in first class on AA would be all we needed! Wrong. They had a sign that they were full, but were letting people in anyway…with a warning that there would not be enough seats for everyone!

We were preboarded with others with mobility issues, children, etc. The flight was unremarkable. Our meal was chosen by us weeks in advance. Once in Dallas, we took the wheel chair assistance. The time between flights was 1hr. and 22 minutes. It was a very long distance, questionable if we would have made it on time for boarding if we walked. I tipped $5 each, hopefully that is appropriate.

Once in Rio, we wheelchaired to luggage. Another long ride. We went thru customs (global) easily. Once at luggage, our “drivers” stayed to help get the two checked roller bags off for us. Seems like airports are more a part of a shopping mall, that the other way around. Another $5 each (perhaps should have been more, but that is what I have without going to my backpack. The walk from luggage to the area where the hosts from RSSC were waiting was also a very long way, especially walking, backpacks and two roller bags.

We reached the hosts from RSSC and they sorted us out. Three couples on our flight (including us) were assigned to a host. He passed out some paperwork, told us a little and then herded us outside for our ride to the JW Marriott (our overnight hotel). He seems to be sort of new and did not know who was to pick us up. We stood there for 10 or so minutes, and finely we went and talked to a minibus/van driver standing there. We were told to load up. The van was 1 ½ foot from the curb, so one needed to step into the street, then up 18-20 inches onto the first step. Each of us needed assistance to do that. All seniors, with two strangers pushing our butts to help us in. Very little room for luggage, so it was stacked in the back, aisles and front. It was over an hour drive to the hotel, with our host and driver bickering on how to get there. Once there the driver pulled close to the curb, making the step down “only14-16”. We were sent into the hotel to check-in. No one tipped the driver, as tips were prepaid thru the cruise line. While we were checking in, the driver managed to drive away with one piece of luggage from each couple. That was a mess, that took 30 minutes to discover what happened and an hour more to recall the van.

All three couples were given their room keys almost 3 hours before check-in time! There was a hospitality room, but only water and orange juice? Our room was plain, little furniture. A bed, desk chair. We had a balcony that viewed other rooms in an interior core. We had dinner in the hotel later. A buffet. It was mostly cold food that should have been hot. Cost 330 R or about $60.

Breakfast buffet was included. The food was good. Transport to the ship was good. The first step into the bus was still a bit of a challenge, but not abnormal. Things are looking up. The luggage had been picked up outside our rooms at 8 AM. Waiting for the buses in the lobby was crowded, and many people had to stand. Getting on the busses was a bit of a free for all.

The bus ride to the port was another long one. It is another reminder to keep track of your toi stops. Once at the port, we are dropped off over a mile from the ship. Checked luggage got a ride, but passengers had to walk. The distance from the bus to the terminal was in the hot sun. In the terminal was much better. This is where we checked in for the ship and got our keycards. Once out of the terminal was another long walk in the sun with broken walkways, trip hazards and people coming from the other way. Again, in the hot sun. We walked past the Oceania cruise ship and then ¾ of ours to get to the gangway. Using the gangway is a bit of a challenge. Seems the height of the steps varies from place to place, but never high steps (always with railing).

Once on ship, we went thru security yet another time, given a glass of champagne, sent off to our life boat station (check in), and then we went up to 11 for the pool bar to get some lunch (others went elsewhere for lunch). Lunch and drinks kept us occupied until the rooms were ready.

Suites were announced first. It took another hour the others Penthouse and below to become ready. We went to our room, Penthouse 723. It is 450 sq. ft. and has a separate bedroom. We booked a lesser room, but were allowed to bid on an upgrade. This room was 3 grades up…I said it was our 50th anniversary. We had time to put our stuff away (lots of space in the walk thru closet). Our butler showed up. We had some questions of him and gave him a list of things we would like. Note, before the cruise there is an opportunity to leave a checklist of booze, snacks and canapes you want in your room. There is a minibar…beer soda mixers, etc. We asked for wine, but there is an extensive list of hard liquor you can have. All the bars are hosted, so it is not that important. It took three days to get a longer robe (they sewed an addition on to mine) and to start getting additional reservations for the dining experience that require them.

To use the TV, you must first watch a 16-minute safety film. This is important for safety, but also the TV is the key to a lot of things you want to know and watch. Think of it as 20 APPS on your TV.

Our Penthouse room is category B (Penthouses are CBA). The main differences between these and Concierge rooms and lower are: 1) size; 2) balcony is double with two chairs, 2 tables and 2 lounges; 3) Butler to do thing you can do, but he will and things it would be difficult for you to accomplish; 4)bedroom is separate with pocket doors; 5) there is a very usable table and chairs to dine at; 6) Canopies are offered daily; and various upgraded items including a remarkable shower.

Dinner tonight is in the Pacific Rim, one of the dining experiences requiring a reservation. This is my wife’s favorite. Me, I am not that good with Asian food. The lobster tempura, my favorite was overcooked and dry! This was one of only two meal disappointments we encountered on the entire cruise.

This cruise starts with 4 ports in Brazil before have the first sea day!

We are booked for Historical and Cultural Walking Tour in our first stop, Ilha, Brazil. Tours were booked months ago. Many have changed their ratings (level of difficulty). This one no longer meets with our ability. It is sold out, so we returned our tickets last night so someone more fit can take it. It also includes tendering into shore, as the ship will be at anchor. For those who have not “tendered”, the ship goes up and down with the water. The tender goes up and down with the water. You must step across from one to the other. There are helpers, but you need to know your limitations. The level of seas makes all the difference. Sometimes the Captain will cancel this transport and the stop will be scrapped. I am finding more and more that tendering is marginal for me. These transfers with a cane are quite challenging.

We start our day with breakfast in the room. We will be doing this every day, so I will only cover it here once as to the details. To get breakfast in your room, the normal procedure is to fill out a breakfast card the night before and leave it on your door outside the cabin. You will get a new form each night. The options are many for breakfast. We have eggs (over medium and over well), bacon crisp, orange juice, English muffins, butter and strawberry jam. We have a coffee machine in our room we do not use it, and we do not order coffee, but it is available. You indicate a 30-minute range in time you wish it to be delivered. Our butler comes, put on a tablecloth, lays out the food, and returns to pick up the dishes when you call him. For those without a butler, the process is the same, only different people come with your food.

After breakfast, we head to the library to get the puzzles each day. Work the Menza and read one of the papers (if any) while the cabin staff does our room. We seem to get some priority in timing from the mostly lower priced cabins, although it is not published. Some days the butler brings the WSJ with breakfast. I am entitled to one choice of several newspapers daily with our cabin level (availability and timing is dependent on the satellite feed). We do this each day when we do not have a tour to prepare for and attend. This is true on sea days, as well, as obviously there are no tours then.

Attire is jeans, or shorts, and t-shirt or polo during the day. Same for wife, jeans, and blouse and often a sweater. We will add layers as we travel South.

Lots of paperwork comes to the room to read, perhaps fill out and submit (butler takes it to appropriate area). The nightly Passages is printed and delivered to one’s room. It covers all the on-ship activities for the following day and the tours. The same data is provided by the Cruise Director each morning on the TV (recorded the night before), and it is provided on a channel in writing. Along with the Passages, comes two pieces of candy, the breakfast in room delivery door hanger, and an occasional advertisement for the stores. No more towel animals (boo).

Our lunch is always at the pool bar if we are on ship. The pool bar has a modest buffet and a small menu. We get chicken wings, no sauce, and potato chips (French fries are not so good IMHO). There is a huge selection of beverages offered. Water, soda, shake, and any liquor. We get margaritas, no salt, on the rocks. Occasionally, I opt for a vanilla shake with caramel sauce or iced tea. There are two bars that serve the pool areas. Two crew types, one for drinks and one for food. Just inside the ship is the Veranda (B, L and D) a huge buffet and seating for those who choose to have a broader selection. One can get food, in or out, and take it where one chooses to eat. Service is good at the pool bar, and you soon become a “regular”. They often recognize you by last name soon after your first encounter. They also confirmed our order before we made it, and a few times brought it before we ordered. Always include the chicken wings, potato chips, 2 water (still) and 2 margaritas.

Seating outdoors includes lounges by the pool, lounges along the windows (part way) with chairs and tables along the rest of the windows and in two larger areas. Ceilings are heated in the two large areas (nice addition when in and around the Antarctic).

Tonight, we ate in the Compass Rose (CR, main dining room, no reservations needed). Attire after 6PM is more upgraded on the ship, but still easy. Slacks and collared shirts for men, and any number of choices for women (no jeans, T’s, shorts). The variety is broad. Many people choose to dress much fancier. The restaurants open at 6:30 PM for dinner. There are a few choices to make from on half the menu that are special for that night. The balance of the menu is a broad array of combinations one can create any night. The menu for CR, and all the other dining options (L and D) are available to read on the TV starting each morning.

For me, the always offered includes three of my favorites: lobster tail, scallops and lamb chops. There are a number of steaks, but they are way to big for me. You can order a “small portion” and that can get most beef down to 6-8 ounces. Wife likes the escargot as a warmup. I am more shrimp coattail or Caesar salad (available with or without anchovies). It is a cruise, so lots of fancy desserts are offered. They do offer vegetarian alternatives. You can order any drinks. They do have a selected white and red wine each night. They are usually blends. We often ordered an alternative from Raymond or Wente. They also offer a highlighted choice of two wines for an extra charge (onboard credit can be used).

We seem to be having trouble getting our room warm enough. Both of our thermostats are at maximum heat (what comes in and when is obviously controlled centrally). Our butler offers to have adjustments made, but we instead opt for a second cashmere blanket (one comes with all the rooms, from our experience with RSSC). Our room also came with two cashmere “ponchos”. We are not great bed sleepers. One or both of us need an alternative venue for sleeping thru the night. Our room contains a large couch and a marginally usable for sleeping chair. The robes and blankets suit this purpose.

Today, we are in Santos, Brazil. After breakfast we head to the showroom (most tours organize here before being called to exit the ship). Tickets are exchanged for a bus numbers card. This exchange requires one to go down many step-downs to get to the front of the stage for this exchange. Fortunately, my wife can do that. For me it is a challenge. You wait in the showroom until your bus (tender) is called before leaving. We are docked, so it is down the gangway to exit (sometimes this requires going down one floor first, elevator or stairs available). Before exiting you must scan your key card for security. It brings up your face for the employee to match. This is done getting on or off the ship, and besides security, it keeps track of who is on board and who is off.

At some ports, the buses come quite close to the ship, minimizing the walk. Some ports require a very long walk to the buses. Some ports have intra-port buses to take you to the terminal and then you walk from there to your tour bus (common). Some port terminals have shops. The excursion team claims to be able to tell you what to expect. You need to understand the challenges you will face getting to your tour bus.

We are taking one of the inclusive tours. Upgraded tours (smaller groups doing the same tour) are offered as an upcharge. Often some additional tours are offered at an additional coast. Our tour is Highlights of Santos. It is a four-hour tour leaving at 8:30 AM. It started with a 40-minute bus ride (narrated) thru downtown and some residential areas. Our first stop is the coffee museum. Coffee is a big deal in Santos and a major export. The museum is not very ADA friendly, and quite crowded (I must refrain from being bumped). There are many pieces of processing equipment and some coffee service sets to see. The stop is about 30 minutes. The guard (one in each room) offered me his chair, which I accepted. It had a fan across from it. Hot day, no AC. There are some steps.

Next, we walked a few blocks (some trip hazards) to the Pele Museum. We stand outside in the sun while our guide makes a 10-minute talk on how important Pele was. The museum has AC! Soccer is not one of our favorite sports and the building is crowded (it has AC), so we walk across the street and across the RR tracks to the RR station where benches await tired legs. Many in our group did this. The train runs a 20–30-minute tourist loop (we did not know this or we might have taken it).

After about 45 minutes, we reboard the bus (they had moved to a closer area for us). We drove to the Botanical Gardens. It was a garden, and a zoo combined. We were given a time to meet at the entry to leave, but no maps of the facilities! The gardens would have been a nice visit for an hour or more, but we did not have that. Wife took lots of pictures. Small lakes. Lots of fish, turtles and large birds. Lots of shade. Meandering paths. Easy to lose time. The bus meets us two blocks away for our trip back to the ship. Note bus driving and parking are often a material problem in these countries where streets were built for horses and buggies. Then it was back to the ship and up the gangway.

We had a late lunch, canapes in the room, and dinner in Compass Rose to round out the day. I scanned the WSJ, checked the news to see how our new president was doing and took a shower.

Talking showers, we are in port. That is the safe time to shower. While at sea, it could be rocky or, a rogue wave could come along. We have been in lower category rooms with RSSC’s but this shower is an upgrade. It has a hand held or hanging wand, six side jets and an overhead rain head. Each is individually controllable. Stepping in is easy. Drying off is a bit trickier. Stepping out of the shower is a small rug, not really made to be wet. To put your feet up to dry them requires one to wet walk to the toilet (7 ‘?) and to put a foot on it to dry. Not quite set up as at home. Towels are good. 4 shower towels. Bar and liquid soap. All liquid hair shampoo, etc. Lots of specialty products.

Next day we dock in Itaji, Brazil. After breakfast, we meet in the theatre for our 8-hour tour “Blumenau Heritage”. The town is of German heritage. It’s a 1 ½ hour drive to the city. The ride is of little interest. Our first stop is the Colonial Family Museum. Here, in a one room building about 40x80’, lies the remains of some of the Blumenau family. We stay here for about 40 minutes, including a short walk on a dirt path to an outdoor burial grounds and a couple of homes.

Our next stop is the Octoberfest Pavilion. As it is downtime, there is little activity. Because the ship was there the stores were open, and a couple bars/cafes. There are bathrooms. We have free time to walk about.

Lunch is our next stop. The place is designed for groups and tours. Lots of tables and chairs and a small buffet. We were told by our guide that soft drinks or beer were included. No employee in the restaurant spoke English (more later). Several employees continuously came around offering beef, chicken, pork, sausages and miscellaneous vegetables. No one needed to go hungry. Food quality was average poor. Oh, the beer is not free. I received a bill. I tried to tell the one who brought the bill, that beer was included to no avail, as he spoke NO English. The discussion with the cashier was the same. I tried to get our guide, but he was out at the bus. I reiterated I only speak English. Fortunately, there were two policemen dining. We talked and they were sympatric, polite but felt I should pay. Our guide came in. He offered to pay, but that was not going to happen. I would gladly pay, now that he told me he was wrong, beer was not included. I just did not want to be scammed! We only drank part of one of the beers and left the other. It was too strong for us. Paid for both and on our way (they took ten dollars and were satisfied).

The drive back was another 1 ½+ hours to the ship, just in time for debarkation. Another bus of passengers did not arrive back for 45 minutes more. This is the benefit of a ship sponsored tour. The ship waits for you or they get you to the next port. Had it been a privately booked tour, those on the second bus would have likely been on their own.

Dinner at Compass Rose, both had rack of lamb…encrusted.

Today, we dock in Montevideo, Uruguay. There are thirteen tours offered by RSSC. We opt for Montevideo Panorama. Theatre to exchange tickets for bus number card. Room key to get off the ship. Have copy of passport (original was taken by the cruise line in Rio). Down the stairs of the ship. This is a working port. Que for a bus. Bus to the terminal. Walk to the tour bus with our ticket number.

The Panorama tours are usually a bus ride with some photo stops. This one was no exception. We have a city drive with a stop at Independence Square and Artigas Memorial. Next, we drive to Legislative Palace. Then we go to Battle Park, Obelisk and “unreadable note”. The La Carreta Monument is next. This is followed by a drive to Carrasco residential area. We have a photo stop at Plaza de la Armada, before driving back along riverside road to the pier. Bus first step on and off was challenging. All that was packed into a 3-hour tour.

Walk from bus to gangway steps, scan card, backpack thru machine and we are off to lunch near the pool (no we never enter the pool or hot tub. Canapes in room. More lobster and scallops in Compass Rose. Lots of blank time is puzzles, forms, reading, this write-up, laundry, walking, conversations, lectures, etc. We seldom do shows (9:30 PM) or any of the numerous activities after dinner. We did when we were younger (and they often had two shows, early and late). There is music, dancing, bars, stores, casino and other activities.

Finally, a seaday. Sleep in. Late breakfast. Library. Mensa. Newspaper. We have a late lunch. We attend a 3 PM show put on by the crew! Often the are a 11PM! This cruise has a very diverse crew, coming from many, many different countries. The entertainment is fantastic and too short. Canapes in the room at 5PM. Dinner at Sette Mar. This restaurant is part of Veranda during the day, and converted to this Italian gem at night. You get an antipasto plate or can choose your own at a buffet table (or both). We ordered a small order of pasta to share and both had lamb chops as our entre.
Our next stop is Buenos Aires, Argentina. We will be here for two days. We opt to turn back our first day tour, “Tigre Delta + River Cruise”. The final write-up suggested a bit more challenge than the prelim, and the offering was of only marginal interest. There are 13 toursoffered here. Regular schedule for us.

Tonight is a special dinner by the pool. This is a big BBQ extravaganza. The crew, especially the food prep personal, are busy doing their work, taking group pictures and selfies. There was no dress code for this dinner (inside the ship was the normal dress code for evenings). All the lounge chairs have been removed and more tables and chairs brought up. The affair was highly attended. The music was great, but very loud, and never took a break. Conversation was very difficult. The visuals of the food were great, but it is hard to live up to the food in the restaurants in an outdoor setting. The party atmosphere is great. I am not sure I would recommend this for more that one time. Lots of people missed this event. Some were off ship on late night tours in Buenos Aires, others were using their reservation nights at other venues, while a few might just be avoiding the crowds and eating in their rooms.

It is our second day in Argentina. Our tour is “Highlights of Buenos Aires with the Evita Museum”. It is 4 ½ hours and leaves early in the morning. Bus from ship to terminal. Walk to tour bus. I would like to start by saying our driver and guide did an excellent job. The driver was always there for assisting on and off. A step bench was always there to make the first/last step easier.

Our first stop is the Evita Museum. Lots of steps, even if you take their 3-person elevator. Mid floor stairs unavoidable. All stairways have rails, but each start to far up and end short. The museum guide stops in each room and gives a 10-minute talk. 4-5 people are usually not in the room, as there is not enough space. Everyone has to stand in place, packed in. This is brutal for me, as I walk better than I stand idle in place. A guard follows to make sure everyone leaves the room without a souvenir, including any pictures of Evita’s dresses. Strictly enforced. Some rooms had seating for one to three people. Normally these are filled right away. These “seats” are also too low to allow many a chance to get back up. There were a couple of films in rooms too. This tour is much more difficult than suggested by the write-up. ADA issues. Three single use toilets are available, not enough for larger groups.

This tour also includes: a 30-minute visit to La Recoleta Cemetery (we had been there); Plaza de Mayo and Cathedral (we passed, its Sunday); visit Caimito historic district street (bathroom (pay the lady-$1 was okay) stop, stores and drinks. Really crowd area. We then did drive-byes of all three ports, numerous ambassador homes, wall art, homes of the rich, etc. Forgot to tell you tips to drivers, guides etc are NOT included. Zero to $5pp seems to be the range that I did or saw.

Tonight, we return to Sette Mar (no reservations required on this ship, but they are on the Voyager) for dinner. We again organize our own antipasto items from the buffet. We have lamb chops.

Today we anchor in Punta del Este, Uruguay. We cancelled our booked tour. Now, the description reads “not available to wheelchair guests or those with mobility issues” in dark print. There are several other tours available, but they are not of interest to us. Time for showers, relaxing, doing write-ups (wife organizing her pictures) and submitting laundry. Besides this is a tender port, a challenge not to be taken lightly…unless you really want to go ashore.

We do not anchor until 10 AM, so all the tours start after that plus the time to tender. Lunch should have few attendees.

A mood killer arrived in the mail today asking about our plans for departure at the end of the cruise. They have this data but need to know that any changes have been conveyed. There are numerous categories: those that are staying on ship and taking the next cruise; those staying in Santiago (San Antonio) Chile on a ship sponsored post cruise program; those going to the AP on the ship program (direct, or delayed with a ½ day or full day tour); and those having made their own arrangements. We are given a couple days to fill it out and return it to the office (another job for the butler…he seems to seek out these tasks).

Examples of the free tours being offered here today include City + Museum; Bike tour; Highlights + Classic Cars; Highlights and Narbona Cheese; Countryside/Olive tasting; Winery Picnic; Classic Cars, Art + Parrillada; and Chef led Winery Tour + meat lovers. These tours are scheduled for 3 to 7 hours.

Today we are cruising the Atlantic Ocean. Several presentations are being offered by our expedition group and related guest speakers. They will be speaking on the area from Stanley in the Falklands Islands, thru the Drake Passage and into the Antarctic Peninsula, back thru the Drake Passage and onto Ushuaia. Note that the speaker programs are recorded and replayed on the TV (on demand). You can also watch news, movies, listen to music, check your billing, review safety presentations, tour presentations and more.

Next day, still cruising the Atlantic Ocean. These sea days allow for sleep ins, laundry (all laundry is free). One can also do their laundry in machines provided. Pressing has a charge for most people. Sea days also have the most ship activities. Games are held, stores are open, casino is open (including tournaments), the library is busy, bars are meeting places (sharing stores, pictures and experiences), tours are offered, classes, and spa. It is cooler now, so the pool activity is minimal.

Today, we are anchored in the Falklands. Our tour is “Bluff Cove Lagoon Penguins”. While most tours are free, this one cost $120 pp. I missed this tour last time when we were in the Falklands, so it was a first for me. The tour is rated the lowest category for difficulty, which seemed iffy given we were at anchor in the Falklands. Admittedly, the category is for the tour, not getting there and back. The Falklands are known for cold and challenging weather. This often means the tenders cannot operate for safety reasons.

After an early rise, breakfast, it is down to the auditorium at 8AM. We are in the first group of several making this tour and others. Leaving the auditorium, we take the elevator down to the exit level (most take the steps one flight down). Then it takes 8 steps down to reach the loading platform, using some railings. While the platform is up and down with the waves, as part of the ship AND the tender is up and down sitting in the bay, the transition was relatively safe with the help of the crew. Two crew, one on the platform and one in the tender. Big step across and down into the tender.

Once in the tender, there are a couple steps down to the floor and to the bench seats. A few seats are often available on fold down seats on the entry level.

The tender ride was bumpy. It took about 20 minutes to get to the dedicated dock for such water craft. There is only room for one tender at a time. The tender had about 80 people in it (WAG). The dock is very “loosey-goosey” and stepping out onto it was a complete hand your life off to the crew person on the dock (for me)! Then, there is 20’ foot of floating dock with rope for railing to get across before land. No choice now, so ADA or not, there I went. The idea of having to do that again on return is somewhat haunted me.

The tour was on a mini-bus, holding 16 people. There were 4 seats I could get to, and the driver saw to it that my wife and I got two of them. The drive was about 30 minutes and narated. Part of it was paved highway, with the rest, a dirt “road”. My wife tells me this is where they put people on 4-wheel drive vehicles in the past.

On the way to the penguins, the drive points out a small building complex where we will meet at a time he tells us. The buildings (think upgraded trailers) include a store, café, museum and toilets. He drops us off quite close to the penguins (100 feet?). There are several employees there to insure we have a good time, and that the penguins are kept safe. They give us a spiel on the penguins and the rules. They also offer to answer any questions while we are there. The next step is to walk across a wet medicated carpet mat to clean our shoes (help to prevent the spread of bird flu). We then head toward the shore and the penguins.

There are tiny flags that mark the areas we are not allowed to pass into. The penguins do not know the rules, so that can be on either side (few are). At that point we are about 20’ or less from the hundreds of Gentoo penguins and about 60 King Penguins. WOW. It is still 50 yards to the water, so they have plenty of room. Some of the Kings have babies (under their bellies and on top of their “feet”. Occasionally, one climbs out causing a massive number of pictures being taken over the hundreds already done. They are spread across the sand for a very wide area, so we all have great views. I even find a log I can sit on. Note the soil is hard enough that using a cane is not a problem.

Many of the penguins are also out in the water swimming around. What a special time for us. I cannot begin to write what this experience meant to those of us living it.

Eventually, it was time to go to the buildings. Each of us was entitled to 2 sweet rolls (scones, rice crispy cookies, cakes, etc.) and a coffee, tea or hot chocolate. Most of the people did this, but half did shopping first. They have a “wool” that is unique to the islands. Some also visited the tiny museum. The café has indoor tables and chairs. A couple of picnic tables outside add to the seating. ADA The buildings share one raised porch, with ramp access. The property the penguin’s “nest” in, and is being farmed (think sheep and cattle), is privately owned. The above buildings are part of the massive privately owned property.

Len, our driver, came and we started loading up the bus. There was a step to stand on before getting into the bus, so he could spray the bottom of our shoes. Again, this is a bird flu precaution. We were one couple short. The driver went to each of the building and called out their names, but no one responded. We waited while the employees rechecked, and after 20 minutes these two fessed up and boarded. Nothing was said. We started back to the main highway, but with all the windows closed and no a/c. It is too dusty now to have the windows open. When we got to the highway it was okay.

We are told the Falklands have no trees. Fishing for squid (specialty boats) is their number 1 source of commerce. Tourists are number 2 and farming (ranching), mostly sheep and wool is number 3. The population is 4000. Almost ½ of their electricity comes from 6 wind turbines. More are on order.

We get back to the “pier” and head for the dreaded dock walk. Key cards scanned, and we are off to board the tender. The wind had picked up materially. I made it across the dock and on to the tender with help. Most people needed help in getting on to the tender. The ride back to the ship was really rough! When we arrived at the ship, I stayed on the tender until last. There was no way I was going to be able to make the transition without attentive help. The crew held me while I stepped across and then until I got settled with my cane on the landing. Thank you.

At lunch, we found out that all tours had been cancelled about an hour before we returned. Transport was no longer deemed safe, and it was all aboard. Wind gusts were up to 50MPH. Lots of people had gone ashore, and the return process was on going until everyone was back aboard. This is one of the highlights stops, but often has to be aborted. The balance of the day was normal for us. Our butler had rearranged many items in our cabin, as we were expecting a bumpy night.

The next morning, we had both breakfast and lunch (menu in room/call in order) in our room. Most people could cope with the ship’s movement, but many on board with mobility issues could not walk in the public areas. The hall is fine, as they have railings and are fairly narrow. The public areas are “open” spaces and hand holds are hard to find. By about 3PM, things calmed down enough that it became safe to go out when dinner time came.

We have reservations at Chartreuse for dinner. The theme here is French. We transited deck 7 (with rails) to the Aft elevators. Rode up to deck 10. With the cane on one side and hand on the wall the other, I made it into the dining room. Chair to chair back to our table. Wife had an escargot dish in a cream sauce, then scallops and then ice cream. I had king crab rapped in something that was like a “radish peel” rapping, Iffy for me, but turned out to be good, then I had encrusted lamb chops and an apple pastry. All very good.

Today, we are headed for the Antarctic. We are up at 6:30AM. Breakfast in room at 7:30. Room serviced at 8. We put on our cold weather gear (thermal underwear, facial/head knit cover, gloves, long sleeve shirt and down coats. Then it was out on the balcony to “camp” in our chairs, me watching and she talking pictures. By 8:15 we see our first ice berg. By 9 we see 25 penguins swimming. Before 10Am we have seen 100’s of penguins. Overlapping and before 11:15 we have seen lots of whale blows and several whales.

We down dress a little, and head for the pool bar for lunch (remember I said they have ceiling heaters). Wife takes some additional pictures of the islands while we wait for lunch. We have transited Nelson and Roberts Islands and are near Harmony Point. We are doing Nelson Channel (a depth of 140’ and getting deeper). We get to Half Moon Bay and the Captain puts cruising in slow motion. We are there for quite a while. The ship does a 360 so everyone can get a good view of everything. Here we see some Chinstrap Penguins for the first time on this trip. The pictures turn up with a couple fur seals as well.

After lunch we returned to our balcony seating. The commentary had stopped at 11, so we were on our own to spot photo opportunities. I spotted another, much smaller cruise ship in the far distance. Wife got a picture; likely we are the only ones with this one. It was around 3PM and it blended in with the background. With the binoculars (in room amenity) and the camera assistance, we were able to confirm its existence.

Next day. I’ll skip the names of the islands, spits, and channels we encountered. We had a very mixed day. Lots of icebergs, volcanic rock, whales and smaller pieces of floating ice. We were in and out of areas trying to avoid the fog. The Captain was constantly changes routes to maximize wonder to be seen. We did cruise along the Antarctic main land for a while. Saw some more penguins in small groups (rafts for swimmers and waddles for on land).

It is approaching dinner time and we have some redressing to do. We have reservations at Prime 7 tonight (my favorite). It is really cold in our cabin (we are in and out the slider). The ship seems to let in the heat around 10:30PM? Just before dinner, it starts to snow! Many of the crew on the ship have never seen snow! They are going “crazy” at the windows. Seafood platter for the appetizers, and some very tender prime rib for dinner. Dozens of great choices, including some small plate entrées.

Breakfast scheduled at 8. We are up at 7 to see what the views are. WOW. Views are great, so it is out on the balcony camera and binoculars in hand. The sun is out and feels good in the otherwise cold environment. A small, but tall, hunk of land is across from us. It has a 200-yard spit going from the water to 50’ (WAG). On the ridge are a few hundred penguins standing side by side with an unknown depth. Lots of pictures. Whale spouts, fins, backs and tails start appearing. We take a quick breakfast break, then back to the show over the next two hours.

Two other cruise ships are nearby. We could not ID them but one was battleship grey (unusual?) with window indications very uniform. The other ship is quite colorful. It is much smaller. Both ships have rubber boats in the water with only a few occupants.

We have been to Alaska a few times, and to the Arctic, both pale in comparison to what we are seeing. Eventually, our ship does a 180 to allow the views to those on the Port side. It really cools off on our balcony without the sun on us. Still a great view. Whales continue their trek by. Now and then a small batch of penguin’s swim by. The rest of the morning we continue thru the channel that we share with various sized ice floats and ice bergs. The sizes vary from soft balls to 7 story buildings.

Off to lunch. We have our chicken wings and margaritas. The heaters above allow us to remover our coats and knit hats. Several tables are along the windows, but picture taking is limited because of the dirty windows. It is important to take a break from picture taking now and again and just take in the view. This is an unattainable trip for most people, as there are limits to the permits to cruise here and the season is very short. We are blessed to get the opportunity to visit here twice.

Before 1PM, we are headed for the Drake Passage. We should reach Ushuaia around 7AM tomorrow. As the day at sea approached an end, traversing the ship became easier. We are lucky that the waves are only 3 meters most of the night.

Today, we are in port in Ushuaia, Argentina. Our tour meets in the auditorium at 7:10AM. It is called “Penguin Rockery Navigation”. It is 5 hours on a catamaran (cat). Boarding the cat is not too difficult. The cat has two levels, with the upper-level outside with a dozen or more steps to get there (we could not go there). Inside seating was like an airplane, except there were tables, and half of the seats faced the stern. The seats were like benches. It has two aisles, 15+-rows and a 3x3x3 configuration. It is packed. We have two aisles seats across from each other, as all the window seats were full by the time we got in. This does not end up much of a problem. There are 2 bathrooms upstairs and two downstairs. NO PAPER is to be flushed, there is a trash can for that!

A safety talk, and some overview of our day is first covered by the crew. We make a few photo stops during the 90 ride to the rookery. People get up and our outside on the bow and stern and sometimes on the sides (blocking the view from inside). There are two crew that constantly are cleaning the windows. There is someone narrating (in English) much of the time. Coattails and snacks are being sold. A crew member is taking pictures, later to be sold as a mini album ($48). The whole experience was very well orchestrated. Often the crew passes by to answer questions.

Seating is declared FIXED, no changes allowed. Getting great pictures requires going outside. It is cold and windy. The passengers are a hearty group, so most go in and out often.

The photo stops include: Beagle Channels’s Sea Lions’ Island (20 minutes); Bird Island (mostly Imperial cormorants) for 20 minutes; Les Eclaire Lighthouse for 30 minutes; and Martillo Island for the Rockery for 30 minutes or more. The last stop had hundreds of penguins (gentoo and Magellan’s), some sea lions, cormorants, skuas, and some other unidentified birds.

On the way back to the dock, someone spots a humpback whale doing its thing near the bow. We stop and troll around trying to keep intermittent view. Soon it is gone, and we continue on.

Wheelchairs do not appear suitable, or even walkers (no space to store). A few people with canes managed, mostly seated. I stayed in my seat, except to allow another in my row to get in and out and to use the toi. ADA Access to board the cat involved two ramps with about a 4” step. Getting off was a bit more complicated. We double parked; therefore, we needed to pass thru another cat to get to shore. The walk from the cat back to our ship was over a kilometer. We missed Ushuaia last trip because of a dockworker strike.

Today, we dock in Punta Arenas, Argentina. We arrive close to noon. We cancelled our tour here as it is now described as too difficult for us, and a bit uninspiring. We have toured here before. There are 10 tours offed for free here. A few had to be rerouted or cancelled because of high winds. Mostly the port was a loser because of the weather. When you cruise, you need to be prepared for weather interruptions. This can be a problem with river cruises as well. Water too high or too low.

Showers/bathroom (ADA). As I have reported, it is safest to shower in port. Turbulence can change quickly at sea. Rogue waves are a risk. Our shower has on grab bar, plus the stem pipe for the wand. The Toi has no grab bars and is quite low. We have cruised with RSSC in a handicap room in the past. Shower was open, no door or curtain. It was tricky to keep the floor of the bathroom dry. Unfortunately, you lose your walk-in closet and some furniture. These rooms are low in number, but surprisingly available.

It is the next day and we are cruising the Chilean Fjords. The scenery changes from volcanic rock a few 100’s meters away to nearly solely ocean, with faint land well away. A few of the land/islands reveal bird occupiers this morning. We miss the shipwreck from the 60’s, as it was on the port side of the ship. We were in our room, about 8AM, having breakfast. No announcement was made, and we did not know what side of the ship it was going to be on.

This morning, we received a sad reminder this is a temporary lifestyle. Luggage tags and directions for debarkation came in the mail. We also received emails from Delta allowing us to make meal choices for our flights home. It’s the 7th, we don’t fly home until the 12th.

It’s 11AM. A special Mexican lunch offering is prepared for the pool area. Yesterday the had Asian. Hard to believe it is time to eat again. We get to the Skua Ice Sheet and the Captain does a 360 for all to see and picture. It takes 45 minutes to make this maneuver. Lots of pictures. Back to the buffet. Mexican, but no enchiladas? We have our regular.

We have our diner at Prime 7 tonight. Our reservations are at 6:30. Reservations can be made as late as 8:30. Onion soup and seafood platter for me.

Next day, we are still in the Chilean Fjords (actually a mix with the Pacific Ocean). Today is our 50th wedding anniversary. It is shown on the TV (each day birthdays and anniversaries are shown). The time in the Fjords is calm. The time in the Pacific is a bit rockier. We plan to leave the comfort of the Fjords and head for open sea to get to tomorrows’ destination early in the morning.

Wife picked Pacific Rim for our dinner. Note, everyone is allowed to book one night at each dining venue requiring a reservations. The selection process is available well before the cruise date, based on cabin and cruise nights in the past. Additional nights can be had, but the process of get those is not that easy. We leave it to our butler. Being gold and in a Penthouse, we managed 7 reservations. If we ate later, we could have had many more. For dinner, I ordered 2 entrees. A small order of the tempura lobster as an appetizer and Chinese Ribs for the main. Wife has an Asian appetizer and the tempura lobster for the main. The lobster was perfect this time. No special recognition.

When we returned to our cabin…surprise…towel animals (swans), banner over the bed, streamers and petals on the bed.

Today we are at anchor in Puerto Chacabuco, Chile. We start tendering at 7AM! There are 9 tours available. 4 tours involve a fee. By 10AM it was pouring rain. No announcements were made, so I guess the tour went on. We returned the balance of our tour tickets yesterday (well the butler did it, always wanted to write that!). We are here until 4PM. Note, all the cabins have umbrellas. The weather issues were announced by Adam in these mornings briefing on the TV.

This morning, we opened our champagne. Yes, a day late. The bottle was in our room since day one. For those who care it was Heidsieck + Co. Champagne E Blue Top Brute from France. We are more familiar with sparkling wine from the grocery store for $8. Lots of wines are served at bars and meals, mostly foreign blends. We usually ask for Raymond or Wente (Cabernet or Chardonnay). Most all the wines are served ice cold? No taste! Why? Please respond, if you know.

The Super Bowl LIX is today (tonight). There will be a Fame Day Buffet at 8PM in the Constellation Theatre, both floors. The featured coattail today is the Touchdown (Jack Daniels, orange liqueur, sweet and sour, ginger syrup, pineapple syrup and lime). At 8:30PM the game will be shown in the theatre and on room TV’s. It is on an ESPN feed, so the commercials will be sports one, not the great one normally shown. Attendees will be allowed to downgrade the dress code to Relaxed Casual.

The Sunday Caviar breakfast is being held, as well as afternoon tea,

The weather really turned bad. Heavy rain and wind along with heavy fog. Several of the long tours did go out early, so it was just horrible luck for them. This is the first heavy rain. We saw some of those tour people coming back on ship, drenched! They were just trapped ashore. Snowed tonight, after everyone was back aboard.

Today, we anchor in Puerto Montt, Chile. It requires tendering. It goes where we did last trip. This afternoon is the last day to turn in laundry. We turn in our last 2 bags to our butler. For us, in by 9, back by 5PM same day. Our experience in lower category cabins, is in by 9, get it tomorrow.

We still have over $350 of on-board credit that we have not used (us it or lose it). We also have a few hours of phone time. We have been to the store 3 times, but have not found a single item. to buy…plus we are full with our luggage. What we brought, plus lots of paperwork the wife uses to ID her pictures..spelling and memory. Okay, it is now or never. Wife got a purse and some perfume. I got a pair of trunks for a friend. We left $50 on the table…There wears are high end stuff, pricy and very limited sizes. Most of the stuff is jewelry, sunglasses, and designer. I have also brought some items to wear and then leave behind to accommodate our add-ons. These include our documents (trashed), a belt, pair of shoes and a T-shirt. We also left the kits we got on the plane.

The next day is in the Pacific, headed for our arrival in Santiago, Chile for the trip home. Gratuities are included in our fares on RSSC, but this is the day/night some extra sharing often goes on. Envelops are available at the purser’s office. No more notes to transcribe, but I still have some memories to share.

Packing is on the last night. Your bags have been stored beneath the bed. The cabin crew puts a bed protector on the end of the bed to place your luggage on. We started packing after lunch. The bags are to be left outside your door by 10PM. KEEP clothes for tomorrow, wear robe in the meantime.

We have our departure package. We are in the first group (yellow one), as our flight is in early afternoon. Others off, with us, are those with their bags on their own. Trip to the airport was uneventful (toi on board). We get to the Santiago airport (SCL) with plenty of time to spare. Again, no wheelchairs, so we take the walk. We are traveling on Delta, flying Latam Airlines Brazil. It is in coach (next two will be in business/first). We are flying to Sao Paulo Guarulhos, Brazil (GRU). We are boarded with mobility issue passengers and those with children. We have two aisle seats across from each other (3 aisle 3 configuration). Wife draws the short straw. Middle seat passenger is 300# plus and hangs over. Next to me, in a middle seat is his wife. As soon as I figure this out, I offer to trade with him, “so we both can sit with our spouse”. He bought it. The flight was 4 hours in economy, what is there to describe. Plane A321 JET.

When we get off in Sao Paulo there are no wheelchairs for us. Same in Atlanta and but not in San Diego. Delta dropped the ball. Worse, the flight to Atlanta, we had to climb up the stairs, after taking a bus to the plane (sitting on the wheel well)! We got lucky in ATL and found the train. It took us from one end of the airport to the other. Having global, gets you thru immigration way quicker. Pre check does the same when you go thru TSA, plus you get to keep your shoes and belt (usually). Next stop was San Diego (SAN). There are wheelchairs. I say our names and they load us up. Once out of the jetway, they see we are NOT on the list. After some thought, one of them push us both. When we get to the elevator, above luggage, we bid him goodbye with two $5’s. At the luggage carousal, someone saw me struggling to get my bag off and helped. He then waited for our other bag and did that one too. Just another passenger…paying it forward, as I have done many times. He did not even wait to be thanked.

Our last transport was the car service firm that brought us to the airport. Leslie texted with him. He only asked what the letter on the pole near us was. He then parked in the lot across the drive from the building exit and came across the street with a sign with our name on it. Not a lot of chatter. He was Russian speaking, with enough English to do the job.

If you got this far, thank you for understanding the typos and sentence structure. It takes a lot of time, but I want to help all I can for those thinking about cruising, especially if they have mobility issues. RSSC is a high-end all-inclusive line. Many others are available with services more al la carte, and lower pricing.