Originally Posted by
KI-NRT
...unnecessary duplication of most of entire post deleted here, mods
.....We dined in one of the 5 koshitsu (private rooms), and overall, we came away satisfied but couldn't get Nishimuraya Honkan out of our minds. It's hard to pinpoint the exact differences, but Nishimuraya was established in the Edo period (1854, to be exact) and is in its 7th generation of ownership, so perhaps they've had more time than others to define/refine their cuisine? And it's not just the crab - we've had acquaintances visit Nishimuraya in the Summer months and raved about the kaiseki meals there. In any case, at Yado Shiontei they did a nice job of bringing the best out of the succulent Matsuba-gani, and the other small, non-crab dishes were also delightful. One of the memorable offerings was the "Matsuba Gani Koura Zake," where the crab head is first grilled on the shell, then cooked with sake poured inside of it. It's consumed once the sake is brought to a boil. The flavors of the crab tomalley, combined with the warm sake was amazing. One thing to note about Zuwai-gani timing, according to the head chef at Yado Shiontei: the best time to go depends on your own taste. In general, earlier in the season (November), when the water is warmer the crab meat is softer. Later in the Winter, the crab meat becomes more firm and plump. It's really a matter of preference; the chef said that it's a 50/50 split among conoisseurs that prefer one over the other.
Just because we think Nishimuraya Honkan is tops doesn't mean we'll be going there every single year. Other ryokans in other locations have unique aspects that we'd like to experience. We're already planning for our first ever visit to Kyoto Prefecture's remote Taiza Onsen, home to the venerable Taiza-gani Snow Crab, and home of Sumihei, one of the two luxury ryokans in the area (Yuhi Resort Hibiki being the other.)
We were at Yado Shiontei back in January and left with similar feelings about the food. We have not visited Nishimura Honkan, but preferred the cuisine at Bouyourou to Shiontei. Nothing wrong with the crab at Shiontei, but it just didn’t impress us as much as our other crab experiences.
The hardware was impeccable and the service was pretty perfect (and surprisingly flexible for a ryokan in a region not frequented by western guests). We did find the private onsen to be a wonderful complement to the experience as the indoor and outdoor baths in our room Kuon felt a bit cramped. The indoor set up of the private bath reminded me of a less impressive version of the private bath at Takefue. I personally thought the price (<$100 for the entire stay) was fair - ice cream was included with the private bath too :-)
Tottori and Shimane as a region impressed us. Very peaceful with few tourists, and many sites to explore. We particularly enjoyed visiting Yuushien. We spent some time in Matsue at Minami Kan (thanks to your recommendation,
KI-NRT !) and enjoyed it as well.