Self-driving in Tunisia: FAQ
I drove over 30,000km around Tunisia in my Mitsubishi L200 4x4 between 2019 and 2022 while researching and writing the Bradt Guide to Tunisia (1st Edition). I visited all 24 Governorates. Below is a useful FAQ for anyone considering driving around this wonderful North African country. If you have any questions, feel free to post them here, and happy exploring!
Is independent self-drive travel around Tunisia safe?
Yes, it's very safe - with one caveat (which I will address later).
I think that self-driving is the best way of exploring Tunisia as you can get really off-the-beaten-track and build an itinerary that is unique to your interests. It is also more efficient as you will not be waiting around for Louages to fill up, and you can do a one-way rental (pick up from your arrival airport, and drop off at a different departure airport) to see as much as possible over your visit. If you are an experienced driver it is probably also safer than relying on local taxis or Louages. However, it is undoubtedly also going to be more expensive, as the Louages and inter-governorate bus networks in Tunisia are very, very cheap.
The police don't tend to hassle foreign self-driving tourists, as long as the vehicle paperwork is in order. Pay particular attention to your road tax, insurance and the vehicle's registration document (Carte Grise) when you pick up your car. You'll get stopped a fair few times on long road trips at police checkpoints (especially by the Garde Nationale) but they tend to be polite and professional. Sadly, this is not always the case for local Tunisians. The road network is also great: for 90% of frequently visited tourist sites, you're going to be driving on smooth tarmac the whole way. Almost no potholes. The A1 toll road, which connects Tunis down as far south as Gabès, is also in great condition and very cheap to use.
The caveat here is driving standards. They are poor, and you should spend a lot more time worrying about a road traffic accident than being a victim of terrorism. Do not drive at night. Stick to the speed limits. Drive defensively. Rent the safest car you can afford to. Beware of roads frequented by convoys of large trucks, such as the P2 south of Kairouan or the P1 south of Gabès.
Also, be careful of sand blowing onto the motorways or when it rains after a windy period. The road surfaces can get very slick with a combination of sand and water, making skidding more likely at high speeds.
Do I need a 4x4?
Renting your own regular vehicle gives you access to most of the national territory. You really do not need a 4x4 unless you plan on exploring the sand dunes (Grand Erg Oriental) south of Douz or west of Ksar Ghilane (such as in Jebil National Park). For any desert exploration south of Remada you are going to need special permits anyway, and to be in a convoy. All but one of Tunisia's Star Wars sites can be visited without a 4x4 (even the famous Lars Family Homestead on Chott el Djerid salt flats, pictured below, can be visited without a 4x4, with the right weather conditions!) Much of the WWII Mareth Line can also be accessed with a regular vehicle and a bit of hiking from the nearest tarmac.
There are also a few rugged roads in the interior mountains (such as around Gafsa, Kasserine and El Kef), as well as some of the more remote national parks that will require a 4x4, but these are not areas frequented by tourists. The Garde Nationale will tell you about road quality if asked, and may refuse to allow you on certain more remote routes if they worry you're going to get yourself into trouble.
Where do I rent a car from?
You can pick them up from any of Tunisia's major airports once you land, just as you would in Europe. Be sure to check the Google Reviews of the rental agency, as some have a pretty bad reputation for poor customer service. Tunisians use Google Reviews and Facebook Reviews quite a lot, so this is a quick way to get an up-to-date overview of what your experience will be like. An alternative would be to rent from a tour agency and have them meet you with the car at the airport. Some agencies even deliver the car to you, bringing a card terminal for you to pay upon delivery. This is a much less stressful experience. I did this frequently using Tunisia Expat Assistance (@tunexpatassist on Facebook). The owner, Omar, speaks perfect English and is very professional. He has good relationships with a number of car rental companies and can also organise English-speaking drivers and guides.
Should I rent or get a driver?
This is completely down to personal preference. Some rental agencies will insist on a driver if you take a 4x4 (as they worry you'll break their vehicle unsupervised!) Drivers reduce your legal risk, understand local road conditions and can help with the language barrier. However, you will then be spending your exploration time hanging out with a stranger.
Be sure to agree daily rates up front, and clarify if per diem food allowances and accommodation costs are included in the daily rate. Food and accommodation are relatively cheap in Tunisia, so this should not be a major additional expense. Also be clear whether the driver is just a driver, or whether they will also be acting as a guide. Lastly, don't be afraid to say something if you are unhappy with the driving standards. Asking the driver to slow down or not overtake around blind corners is perfectly acceptable! Again, Omar over at Tunisia Expat Assistance is able to sort out excellent English-speaking drivers and guides.