I was in Albania at the same time you were, though the morning of your full day there I was boarding a coach to head down to Durrës.

I went to Oda the first night I was there as well. I didn't have quite the same grim impression as you did, but it was obvious that it was a tourist magnet and you were paying more for the atmosphere and the live music than the quality of the food.

Thanks for the trip report - enjoyable read.