From Saveur Magazine Jan/Feb 2005

Victor Arguinzoniz has been called the Ferran Adria of the grill. At his restaurant ETXEBARRI, in the pretty Basque mountain town of Axpe Atxondo, not far from Bilbao, he makes his own charcoal every morning, the uses it to grill or wood-oven-roast, on (or in) devices of his own design, just about any Spanish foodstuff you can imagine - anchovies, hake cheeks, giant shrimp, salt cod, pork chops, the minature eels called angulas (done in seconds in a rounded pan with pinprick holes in the bottom), even cream of red bean soup (slow-cooked in the smoky oven, them embellished with sweet red peppers stuffed w/blood sausage0, and dessert (for instance, an infusion of grill-roasted cocoa with ice cream made from milk reduced on the grill). This is some of the most original, compelling, honest food in Spain.