I was hoping to pick the amazing collective travel brain here.

My wife and 12-year old daughter will be visiting Japan in mid-April for a week. It will be our daughter's first visit. My wife has been 3-4 times and I visit Japan at least twice a year. Our daughter is well-travelled and I am keen for her to experience a traditional ryokan at least once during our trip.

My wife is eager for our daughter to visit Kyoto but 1) the prices are insane at the moment, 2) I have been many times, and 3) last year I found the crowds off-putting. If we were to go I wouldn't mind revisiting Hiiragiya (it's been 20 years!) or Sowaka, where I stayed last year.

But I have been looking for alternative destinations. We will have 4 nights for a mini trip before returning to Tokyo. I was thinking of visiting Takayama (have not been), in which case we'd probably rent a car, or perhaps go to Asaba (based on recommendations here).

I have been to Hakone (Gora Kadan) myself but would not mind something rural instead. I walked the Kumano Kodo trail just before covid but was not impressed with any of the ryokan I stayed in at the time.

Given all this, we would very much welcome any suggestions you might have!