FlyerTalk Forums - View Single Post - Muktuk, Suaasat, Musk-Ox and no Moonlight at all - a trip to Greenland in 2023
Old Jun 9, 2024 | 3:23 am
  #9  
Askartus
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Off to Disco Island

The next two days we went to a island called Qeqertarsuaq or Disko Island in Baffin Bay, off the west coast of Greenland. It has an area of around 8500 km2 making it the second largest of Greenland after the main island and one of the 100 largest islands in the world. The transfer was made by a scheduled ferry ride which again was leaving very early. This holiday was not meant for sleeping in.

Still sleepy we sat down in the boat, put on our headphones and slept or read a book.



And after 2 hours we arrived at the appropriately named Qeqertarsuaq Town, the only settlement on the Qeqertarsuaq Island.

As it was still super early, we couldn't check in and simply deposited our rucksacks with our bag behind the bar. The two fellow travellers from Quebec, Canada, did the same - two sisters we wanted to meet more often. One introduced herself with "I am from Canada" and the other with "I am from Quebec", which the former then acknowledged with "Same family, different political approach" ... 😉



Qeqertarsuaq Town was founded in 1773 and the name itself appropriately means ‘big island’. As already mentioned, they are not creative here. The town is home to 839 people. Another 50 live in a settlement further north and that's it. For the whole island.

As we still had time, we took a stroll through the foggy and rainy weather. Everything looked a bit lost here but the grey weather meant that we could take a few interesting pictures.







In the run-up to the event, we watched one or two documentaries and we were particularly taken with one by Copa90. It was actually about football, but very quickly moved on to the cultural and other changes to the community here as a result of climate change. Hunting on Disko Bay, which is very important for the people here, is being lost due to the lack of ice cover in winter and unfortunately this has many bad consequences. The men stay at home and, apart from drinking, don't know what to do with themselves. There is also the problem that the prey should actually be used for food, but now has to be bought at a high price. We were repeatedly reminded that an unbelievably drastic change is happening here.

But football is indeed something we also like, so we had to visit the ground of G-44 Qeqertarsuaq, two times champion of the Greenlandic league.





But then back to the lodge. On the way we saw an open cafe, which we entered and where we were surprised with a belgium beer on tap. Still do not know why.



The rest of the stay was filled with another guided tour with us learning about the history of the island, the settlement and a listening to a few anecdotes about the people here. The weather was getting better, so we took a lot of pictures.





Oh, and they do have dogs here as well.



But also very nice sights.



Next item on the list. Sauna! With the coolest pool in the world. Quite literally ...





After that, we enjoyed our pre-booked dinner which included a very large snowcrab for about 36 Euros. Which took quite long to finish.



Finishing the day off with a G&T seemed like a good idea.



Sleeping was kind of hard here as the curtains here were especially bad.



So the next day was a very quiet one, we just walked around the island and to a viewing point. The hiking trails were not available as it was still very snowy and people have been telling us that it can get dangerous.





In the afternoon we have been booked on the ferry (which arrived about 90 minutes late because of some icebergs tipping over or laying in the path) and returned to Ilulissat.



And there we checked into the Hotel Icefjord for just one night, because tomorrow we would be going to a highlight of our trip. And to one of the best experiences in our culinary journey over the last 20 years so far.

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