It’s not just the quality that has gone down, it’s the quantity. Clearly, everyone would rather have quality and quantity, but I accept it’s BA and in J those days have long gone. However, at least on AA you get enough food to be able to soak up the wine and send you off to the land of nod.

BA used to serve up a hearty J meal, even if it was never particularly radical or gently cooked. Now it’s well into the dreaded realms of tiny sharing plates at a Hackney natural wine bar, but with none of the creativity or variety.