I have CSP (Visa) and also Barclay's Aviator Red (MC). Both provide auto insurance in Italy (Chase's is primary, Barclay secondary). Both with no fx fees. Have a rental on the Barclay's right now as we're at our house in Italy for 4 weeks over the Xmas holiday.

RE: Michelin - am partial to their BibGourmand category - very good food at good value. We've done plenty of starred restaurants over the years but they can trend to gimmicky (we're staying at a hotel in Florence this week for a couple of nights that has a 2* but we'll skip it) so we seek out places that do the local cuisine to a high standard.