I think the quoted article is a little harsh. There are only so many different foodstuffs available and genuinely new items (eg a new vegetable) doesn’t come along that often.

Of course most menus reflect trends as not too many chefs can set them. To me the real issue is that there are far too many restaurants with ideas way above their station. They churn out copycat food to a high, but not exceptional, standard but charge exceptional prices for it.