I didn't see Onyado Chikurintei on your list. The property looks amazing, but would love to hear your thoughts if you've had the chance to stay there. Unfortunately it's booked out everyday in November after the 8th, so we'll have to come back to this one a few years down the road.
Originally Posted by
KI-NRT
Onyado Chikurintei is on our "to visit" list. The last time we were in Saga Prefecture, we elected to stay at Yoyokaku instead, since it seemed that there was more to do in the Karatsu area than Takeo Onsen. Chikurintei is very highly rated and was recommended from several travelers that we trust. The ryokan has a wonderful garden, and its sauna has been voted as the top sauna for 3 years in a row. The meals are exquisite and are served in gorgeous porcelain from nearby Arita and Imari, two of the country's most famous pottery towns. If you're hoping for a nice Onsen ryokan experience in Western Kyushu, it's a great choice (Yoyokaku does not have Onsen.) Chikurintei is also extremely accessible, even without a car. You can take the 30-minute West Kyushu Shinkansen from Nagasaki, or get there - without any transfers - directly from Fukuoka in one hour.
I doubt that Chikurintei is completely booked beyond 11/8. I'm guessing that the property only starts accepting reservations starting about 5 months out. This is not uncommon - in fact, some ryokans start taking bookings beginning 4 months out.
A plan we have for next year will have us flying into Fukuoka, taking the train down to Takeo Onsen and staying at Chikurintei, renting a car to tour more of Saga, staying at historic Hirado, dropping off the vehicle at Sasebo and taking a ferry to the Goto Islands. So many wonderful places to see, and things to do!
It seems that Mifuneyama Rakuen is quite popular during Spring and Fall. Make sure you secure a room early for your trip!
I stayed at Mifuneyama in the first half of May this year. Had originally wanted to book Chikurintei, but no availability, therefore we opted for Mifuneyama since it's the same location and both Ryokan (not sure but they may be jointly owned) give you the same onsen and garden experience. If you want the traditional ryokan experience, then Chikurintei is the way to go, but since it's difficult to book, I'd just book Mifuneyama instead. Mifuneyama is a non-traditional Ryokan, when you enter, it's very dark inside and no lights are on at the front desk, so staff use flashlights instead. Near the front desk is a vast array of colored lights (photos below) providing an artistic light show. Although I'd classify Chikurintei as a luxury ryokan, Mifuneyama is not (paid rate for two was $341.32 for one night).
The spa (onsen, saunas, cold baths, lounge) is fairly large but it looks much better in photos than in person. I've heard that its sauna is rated number one in Japan but we thought it was just OK, rather large and induces a good sweat. Personally, I think the spa is a little overrated but it does cover all the essential spa needs. OTOH, the second-floor lounge is quite nice with a good view, several chairs to relax in, and a (non-alcoholic) drink bar. Here's the web page of the spa:
https://www.mifuneyama.co.jp/en/hotsprings_a.html
Mifuneyama's one restaurant was nice and spacious and we were quite happy with the dinner and breakfast served, I don't think you'd be disappointed, though I think Chikurintei provides a more traditional Japanese Kaiseki cuisine.
The garden normally costs, IIRC, 700 yen to enter, but if you stay at the Ryokan, entry is free. It is a very large and beautiful garden and can take a good hour or two or more to see. I'm sure autumn would be the best time to see it.
Light show in Mifuneyama's lobby
Our room at Mifuneyama
Garden
