Ever since people paid to travel in aircraft, the airlines have worried about how to feed them while they fly. For the first eighty years of air travel the answer was ‘on board catering’; basic for economy, and superior for the first class, and later, business class. On long haul it was always recognised that passengers must eat, but on short haul, under three hours, food in flight was minimal. But at least it kept the cabin crew occupied, as safety and security, although an essential function, does not give the crew much to do.

The news story last December about Ryanair pushing on-board sales targets was very revealing. I should know, since I managed the British Airways cabin service for four years in the eighties. In-flight sales have never been a significant part of airline profitability. Before managing cabin service, I was British Airways Chief Economist, when I tried to remove on-board catering from the then new Glasgow Shuttle, and replace it with free breakfast in the departure lounge. In the end, I was defeated because the aircrew would not give up their hot breakfast and afternoon tea on board, and BA hated to give anything away for free, anyway. All our research at that time showed two things: One, our passengers really liked to have small, on-board catering and, two, they generally found so-called duty free purchases inconvenient and better done in the terminals.

As for duty-free, this is such a nonsense because for most flights in Europe there are no duties charged. The industry pretends that the on-board sales are a bargain. But they all must be purchased, stored and accounted for. And they all add to the cost of carrying them on the aircraft, not to mention ground handling again. And, moreover, the new trend is expensive, glossy catalogues, and internet sales. The airlines should stick to their knitting!

At least there was always British Airways who provided free food and proper cabin service for the higher fares they charge. But now they have gone down the same miserable path too, turning their flights into Marks and Spenser Simply Foods with extra tired toiletries added.