A decent enough meal is a worthwhile add-on to the more comfortable seat, which in my mind is the main benefit. I sometimes pass up wine for a decent scotch or whisky. I can't imagine choosing an airline based on its particular drinkables.

It seems to be generally though that taste buds don't work as well at cruising altitudes. It would be an interesting experiment to determine whether most can distinguish between a good wine and, say, two buck Chuck when served at cruising altitude.

(It's also pretty well established that opinions about wines are pretty strongly influenced by the labels).