Last time I was in Rethymno was 1970 as a 14 year old spending a year on Crete with my family. I've been back to Crete maybe half dozen times since then but always focusing on Eastern Crete. ( Aghios Nikolaos and eastward.) Thank you for sharing your journey. It makes me homesick for Crete. ( Health issues with my husband prevent us from going back in this lifetime).