Although the conference proper wrapped on the Sunday, the next day saw a smaller group of us – including Tony - reconvene for a guided tour, the special cosmic day trip.This itinerary would lead us out of Yerevan to a research station perched 3200m above sea level. Both there and en route, access had been arranged to various facilities not normally open to the public.

First of these was Byurakan Astrophysical Observatory, less than an hour from the capital but already at an altitude of 1400m. For nearly 50 years this was the home base of Viktor Ambartsumian, one of the leading 20th century scientists not just of Armenia, but the entire Soviet Union. It remains a significant research centre today, and the current director explained some of its work before showing us around two of the observatories. As part of this, we met an engineer in his 80s who was here for the facility’s formal opening in 1960, so I can now make the strange claim of being a single handshake removed from Khrushchev.
The next stop was, as mentioned, a large factor in luring me to Armenia in the first place. A slightly perilous road lead 300m further up the mountain to an imposing gatehouse I would have had no hope of charming my way through even if I’d found a driver. Once through, however, were free to roam the site of the Orgov radio-optical telescope as we wished (albeit at our own risk: I nearly blundered over an unguarded edge into a two storey fall onto concrete).

It was the vast dish – 54m across, and built into the hillside – I had come to see, but once I realised we could also access the former control room, I spent more time exploring that. As well as a treasure-trove of vintage equipment, it also contained a fantastic mural:

Our final destination – and explanation for the trip name – was the Aragats cosmic ray research station. Before looking around, we were first treated to lunch: soviet style. We ate communally in an old-fashioned dining room, having queued for ladles of Borscht. After that we were given a tour of the tunnels running beneath the station, designed for easier movement between surface buildings and underground storage when snowed in.

Strangely, although we were allowed to walk through these – and I could easily draw you a map as a result – photography was strictly forbidden as they are considered of strategic significance. But if you’re interested, you can find plenty more shots from the rest of the day – including above ground at Aragats – in this gallery.

Most organised tours of Armenia seem to be focused on its religious landmarks – as the first country to adopt Christianity, a great number of monasteries, churches and temples dot the countryside. But I’m glad I had a chance to try something rather different – and with a level of access I’d never have got on my own!