Naoshima Ryokan Roka - Naoshima "Art Island"
Naoshima Ryokan Roka (henceforth referred to as "Roka") opened in the Spring of 2022 with great fanfare and a massive marketing blitz. It immediately found its way to the list of ryokans at Ryokan Collection, a curated ryokan information and booking site for foreigners (warning: not all of them are up to snuff.) Part of the reason it received so much attention has to do with the owner/founder - his family runs the famous Onsen ryokan "Kifu No Sato," arguably the top ryokan in Okayama Prefecture (see the first post for my impressions of Kifu No Sato.) Unlike its famous cousin, Roka is modern and somewhat artsy, which is more in line with the Naoshima vibe. First, a few words about where Roka is located.
The iconic Kabocha Yellow Pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama
Naoshima, and the surrounding isles in the Seto Inland Sea, where rural backwaters until the 1990s, when the visionary owner of Benesse Group (a company that runs education, elderly care and and language learning institutions) and world-renowned architect Tadao Ando hatched a plan to turn Naoshima into a contemporary art island. This began with the construction of Benesse House, a hotel and museum; other artworks followed, including several by Yayoi Kusama - her famous pumpkin that is one of the iconic symbols of Naoshima. Now, Naoshima (and several of its neighboring islands) is a pilgrimage site for contemporary art lovers, and allows people to enjoy numerous outdoor art installations as well. I must confess that we are not die-hard art aficionados, but we thoroughly enjoyed the Naoshima experience, and look forward to returning in the future... one full day is woefully inadequate to see everything there is to see there.
"Open Sky" by James Turrell, Chichu Art Museum
We initially planned on staying at Benesse House, which offers four distinct buildings in different locations (beach, hillside, inside the museum, etc.) and has decent accommodations for those that book a suite there. We were, however, drawn into the Roka hype... it's the first true luxury ryokan in Naoshima, and we were eager to check it out.
Location wise, Roka is a mixed bag - Naoshima itself isn't a massive island; it's relatively easy to get around via bicycle (rental places abound), although things do get quite hilly in parts. That said, Roka is about a secluded as a place in Naoshima can be. There isn't much around... the closest tourist area is Honmura District, which is about a 10 minute walk away and is home to the various Art House Projects, including several by Tadao Ando and James Turrell. Most of our time, however, was spent exploring the cluster of world-class museums at and around Benesse House. One thing to note: only paid guests at BH can drive into the property and use its parking facilities; everyone else are required to park outside, and then either walk (about 25 minutes) or take an hourly shuttle.
Naoshima Ryokan Roka rock garden
Upon first glance, Roka is modern and stylish, although the property grounds aren't exactly huge. In front of the main building is a rock garden, and in the area between the mail building at the guest rooms is an outdoor hearth - this is meant to serve as a gathering area for guests (at least during warmer months), and the bonfire in the hearth is fired up in the evenings for post-meal nightcaps. All 11 guest rooms are situated in a single-story building, and are lined-up, side-by-side, along a pathway.
Naoshima Ryokan Roka - Roka Suite
We booked the Roka Suite, the only one of its kind (other rooms are smaller) and offers up 106mē of living space.
It has a tatami room, a Western-style living room, a dining table with 6 chairs, a bar counter, a semi kitchen, two sinks/vanities, a bedroom and a separate shower/bath... it's very spacious for 2 guests; I'm guessing this Suite is also intended for extended-stay visitors as well as families. All of the rooms face a small hill that is not particularly interesting to look at - I'm hoping/assuming that things will improve as the vegetation has a chance to grow and mature over time. There's no TV in the room.
Naoshima Ryokan Roka - Roka Suite
The big bummer here is the lack of Onsen. We knew that going in, but we would've thought that the heir to Kifu No Sato would've figured out a way to get some Onsen to Roka. To make up for this, Roka does offer a large jar of Onsen concentrate (from Yunogo Onsen, which is where Kifu No Sato is located) that you add to the bath. Better than nothing, I guess. The second knock against Roka's rooms has to do with the amenities, or lack thereof. By luxury ryokan standards, Roka has a very limited repertoire of toiletries. No moisturizer, no face cream, no hand cream, no cotton swabs, no shower cap. Only a toothbrush, toner and razer (but no shaving foam/gel.) Compare that with many top properties that provide all of the above, and offered in personal travel sizes so that you can take them home with you.
Not an Onsen
Service wise, everyone was friendly and accommodating; however, we felt that it was a bit too "corporate" for a ryokan with just 11 guest rooms. The uniforms were black and bland, check-in and check-out formalities are done in a lounge area that is next to the kitchen, guests are not assigned a butler and there is no private dining option. Furthermore, meal times are 18:00 or 18:30 for dinner, and 08:00 or 08:30 for breakfast - that's it. No other options. We also felt that dinner service was a little more formulaic compared to Kifu No Sato and other top ryokans; the description of each course was "by the book" - the servers did not go into any greater detail than what was written on the menu. And questions such as "is this Fugu (blowfish/pufferfish) caught locally?" was usually met with "let me check with the chef and get back to you" response. Given that the menu changes seasonally, I would hope that management and the executive chef would really make sure that all servers are very well versed in what is being put in front of their guests.
With all that said, we did enjoyed the kaiseki dinner. Most of the dishes were focused on the bounty from Naoshima (and nearby islands) as well as the Seto Inland Sea. The courses were carefully crafted and beautifully presented. Some of the later, larger courses could have used more imagination, however. Buri Misoyaki (Grilled Miso-glazed Japanese Amberjack) is a common dish that can be found all over Japan, while the Sawara Yuzuka-yaki (Spanish Mackerel marinated with Yuzu Soy Sauce) was bland. We left the restaurant plenty satisfied, although the dining experience at Umioto Mari was more memorable.
Roka's kaiseki dinner - "Hassun" (Seasonal Assortment Platter)
One good service aspect has to do with their staff, or at least the composition of their employees. As Roka is geared as much towards foreigners as it is for locals, a large number of the attendants were non-Japanese. In addition, they offer printed menus in both Japanese and English, so at least you'll have a basic understanding of what is being placed in front of you. Curiously, there is no menu at all for breakfast in either language.
Bonfire. It was much too cold for anyone to be outside, however
Overall, I think Roka still seems like a bit of a work in progress. Most are easily corrected (better toiletries/amenities, more flexible meal times), while some are not (Onsen, private dining options.) For us, the next time we go to Naoshima we will probably stay at Benesse House since we did not have a chance to see everything nearby (Lee Ufan Museum, for instance.) From what I can gather, I also don't think a Suite at BH is a major compromise, either. It's also a fraction of the price that Roka commands.