September 24th, 2022
British Airways * First Class * London to Seattle * 330p-505p * 787-9

Rather surprisingly, this is my first flight in International First Class since the last time I flew aboard British Airways in February of 2019. Any of you who’ve followed my trip reports over the past twenty years know that I’m usually good for two to four flights each year in International First Class. Alas, Covid changed all that. Believe me when I tell you it is ever so good to be back!

Any of you who have had the pleasure of enjoying International standard First Class inflight service know the unique pleasures of what of I speak. We’re not talkin’ flying up front from New York to LA anymore (although those of you of a certain age will recall that once upon a time the service in First Class aboard U.S. transcons was not that far off the international standard) Flying in international First Class aboard certain international airlines is not just a flight, it’s an experience. It’s not just the space or the food. It’s the training and pride reflected in flight attendants who anticipate your needs, not just come when they’re called. It’s consistently and graciously meeting the expectations and needs of an often sophisticated and seasoned clientele, many of whom have expectations commensurate with their lot in life, a lot that rarely if ever includes Economy or Business Class travel. It’s training and pride that reflect in a meal being presented, not just served. It’s a commitment by the airline to provide only the finest in food and amenities and to maintain a high standard of service that allows only the best and most dedicated flight attendants to work the First Class cabin. It’s class. First Class. It all adds up to the very best service one can expect in the air. It’s truly wonderful to experience and almost as exciting to anticipate.

By the way, a few years ago I had someone here call me on why I refer to it as a First Class “Experience”. To that I will respond thusly – If for you flying in International First Class aboard any of the world’s finest airlines is no more than “just another flight”, you’re clearly wasting your time in the wrong trip report. Indeed, the fact that one who thinks along such lines might be perusing the Trip Reports Forum at all would be surprising to say the least. Continue on with this report at risk of your own ennui.

Now I know it’s trendy with some of the snootier amongst us to look down their noses at British Airways with regard to expecting a quality First Class experience. Many of the posters at a couple of forums here come across as so blasè about it all as if they have gazillions of miles from their work related travel and have long since lost the excitement of it all. It’s almost as if they’ve come to expect forelock-tipping and are always looking for little things to criticize.

What can I say? To be sure, British Airways is not Emirates or Swissair, and, although I’ve had a couple of stinkers amongst the 41 flights and 200000+ miles I’ve logged in BA’s First Class, on the whole I feel like for the most part they’ve provided a consistently nice service with crews who understand the idea of International First Class service as opposed to a significant percentage of their modern day U.S. counterparts.

It’s a real shame how times have changed. Back in the 1960s US carriers Pan American and TWA were very worthy standard bearers for excellence in First Class service. By the time other US carriers started to enter the international arena post-deregulation (1978), times were changing in ways detrimental to the continued high quality of service. Above all, lower fares and generous award travel redemptions from fast growing frequent flyer programs resulted in a lot of people flying First Class on US airlines without paying anywhere near what it traditionally cost. Over time, the service standards began to erode, essentially reflecting the fact that you get what you pay for.

Outside of America, it’s generally a lot more difficult to earn the miles needed to redeem for a Premium Class award. Heck, right now Alaska Airlines is offering 70000 miles if you get its credit card and then spend only $3000 over the next three months. That’s enough for a one way First Class award from the U.S. to Japan on JAL. I don’t need to tell any of you well-traveled people what those seats are worth when purchased with cold hard cash (credit cards are gladly accepted though)

But hey – enough of this talk. Let’s board our 787 and commence with the festivities!

My wheelchair chauffer insisted on delivering me all the way down the jetway and right up to the door of the aircraft. There, two nicely attired ladies were stationed to meet and greet all incoming passengers. Unlike some gates, there was only one jetway for this flight, boarding at door 2L. This early in the process however, most of us were true First Class passengers and as such were greeted warmly and directed – if not outright escorted - to our suites.

British Airways operates a fleet of eighteen of the 787-9 variant. I first flew one back in 2019 between London and Newark. I was in First Class back then too, suite 2K. Imagine then my surprise – and to some extent dismay – to see that the aircraft operating today’s flight over to Seattle was none other than G-ZBKN, the exact same aircraft I’d flown aboard three years ago. I was also sat in the exact same suite, 2K. Look, you can still see where I carved my initials in the side wall!



British Airways’ 797-9


Just kidding of course! That said, I do like flying aboard new and different aircraft and because I’m one of those unrepentant weirdos who actually log my flights – including the aircraft registration number – I’m actually aware of such things as G-ZBKN whereas most other people would be blissfully unaware. That said, ZBKN’s a great gal and much as I’d like to meet and fly aboard all of her sisters, I’ve really no serious complaints in flying with her once again, especially since I get to fly her at her best – in First Class

As such, let’s have a look at what one who’s fortunate enough to fly in First Class can expect aboard BA’s 787-9s:



British Airways First Class Cabin on the 787-9
Photo courtesy of British Airways


British Airways First Class Suite on the 787-9
Photo courtesy of British Airways


British Airways First Class Suite on the 787-9 – Looking forward


Ah…. It is so nice to enter the serene sanctum of the First Class cabin on a wide bodied aircraft. This was particularly true up in the nose of the 747 – the Queen of The Skies. Upon entry, you leave the crowds in the jetway behind and can now cast off the stress and demands of the day. Soft music floats through the cabin as you hand over your jacket and carry-on luggage and settle into your comfortable and spacious First Class suite. Off with your shoes, on with your slippers. Sink back into the foam rubber leather upholstered ecstasy of your plush First Class seat and gratefully accept that offer of the traditional start to any proper International First Class experience.

That’s right – a glass of Champagne. Mind you, we’re not talkin’ Paul Masson sparkling wine or even some sub-$100/bottle swill as served on some airlines Business classes. Today’s offering was a glass of Laurent Perrier, Grand Siècle NV – from what I understand a fairly good quaff.

That said, how ironic that such quality is practically wasted on me. That’s right. I’ve said it before but I just don’t relate to what all the excitement is about good Champagnes. I mean, just last week I was trying to make sense of a glass of $350+/bottle Salon aboard a Japan Airlines flight (Don’t worry, we’ll get to that flight in due time…) Heck, per my clearly uncultured tastes, it didn’t taste all that much different from a glass of $27.00/bottle Freixenet.

That said, a quality glass of Champagne – most notably Dom Perignon – is and has long been the standard bearer for the traditional welcome aboard drink aboard most International First Class flights. Even though my preference and knowledgeable appreciation lean more toward a quality bourbon or whisky, I almost always go with the flow and start out my First Class experience with a glass of the bubbly.

Almost, but not today. Today, I requested a simple glass of the South African Chenin Blanc. I know, I know – it was my first international First Class flight in over three years, and yet a glass of nicely chilled white wine was all I really wanted. There would be plenty of time over the course of this 9 hour and 10 minute flight to check out the other various wines and spirits.

This brings back memories of the time I started out a trans-Pacific flight on Cathay Pacific with one of its non-alcoholic mocktails. I don’t remember the name of it – the something Breeze perhaps – but oh, it was ever so tasty and refreshing!

A blanket, pillow and noise cancelling headphones were already at the suite of course. Soon I was offered slippers, pajamas and an amenity kit, followed shortly thereafter by the menu and wine list for this flight. Of all the various amenities offered, the latter two are my favorites. To my way of thinking, they represent my favorite form of inflight entertainment. So then, let’s check out that Wine List, shall we?


WINE LIST

Champagne
Laurent Perrier, Grand Siècle NV – France
Lanson, Extra Age Rosé Brut NV - France
Hattingley Valley, Blanc de Noirs 2018 – England

White Wine
Laroche Chablis 1er Cru L’Essence des Climats 2020 – France
Serge Dagueneau & Fils, Pouilly-Fumé Tradition 2021 – France
Kleine Zalze, Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2019 – South Africa

Red Wine
Château Quinault l’Enclos, St Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2014 – France
Martinborough Vineyard, Te Tera Pinot Noir 2020 – New Zealand
Teusner, Riebke Shiraz 2019 – Australia

Dessert Wines
Château Filhot, Sauternes Grand Cru Classé 2019 – France
Warre’s Colheita Port 2019 – Portugal

Spirits
Tanqueray No. Ten Gin
Aviation Gin
Cîroc Vodka
Bacardi Carta Blanca
Zacapa 23 Rum
Bulleit Bourbon
Singleton 15 Year Old Single Malt Scottish Whisky
Johnny Walker Blue Label Scotch Whisky

Liqueurs & Digestifs
Bailey’s Irish Cream
Otard XO Cognac
Cointreau

Beers
BrewDog Jetstream
Heineken Lager
Heineken 0.0% Alcohol


Hmm… I found it surprising that BA had dropped the Woodford Reserve as its bourbon of choice and instead gone with Bulleit. Bulleit’s certainly drinkable but per my tastes at least the Woodfords has more flavor and depth. Mind you, I’ve been known to buy a bottle or two of Bulleit back home, but then that’s when it’s on sale for just $24.95 or so/750ml bottle. It normally retails for about $31 in Alaska. Meanwhile, the Woodford is rarely on sale and typically retails for about $40 per bottle. I’d hate to think economics had anything to do with the decision to switch out the Woodford...

Whilst I was perusing the Wine List, the last of the First Class passengers arrived (We departed with five of the eight suites occupied), the airplane was buttoned up and safety announcements were dispensed with. I miss the old ones with the Lakmé: Flower Duet soundtrack… We then commenced a long taxi out to some distant runway from which we launched into a powerful takeoff run, after which we verily leapt into the skies above Heathrow and charged onward and upward toward the soft blue yonder of the troposphere.

Service commenced about twenty minutes into the flight. The Flight Attendant serving my side of the cabin was a lovely lass named Emily with an equally lovely lilt to her English accent. Might I care for a cocktail or a glass of wine to start off the flight?

I would love to try one of those assumedly fine British ales such as the BrewDog Jetstream, but from my past experience they’re never served cold enough. The problem is twofold, I think. One - they’ve just been sitting on top of the ice and Two – forgive my chauvinism here but I suspect that many of the female flight attendants don’t seem to know or care much about drinking beer. Add to that my preference for ice cold beer – regardless of whether it’s a lager or a stout – and some of you might counter with the possibility that maybe it’s me who doesn’t know much about drinking beer.

That said, I know my tastes and they demand ice cold beer. Even Guinness Stout. Anyway, since past experience suggests that I’d only be disappointed with a beer order, I instead opted for a glass of the exquisitely described Laroche Chablis 1er Cru L’Essence des Climats 2020. Just saying that name… it just kinda rolls off your tongue and makes ya feel a bit like a wine snob, n’est ce pas?



Traditional White Wine in the window shot


Traditional White Wine in the window shot


The wine was presented with a nicely plated tray of canapés, three in total each set in their own little bowl. The last time I flew with BA in 2019 there were no canapés, but I am pleased to report that not only have they returned, but BA would appear to have upped their game with regard to canapés. Long one of my favorite parts of a proper First Class service, I have fond memories from the eighties of large trays or trolleys of ornately prepared and presented canapés served aboard the likes of Air New Zealand, Aerolineas Argentinas, UTA, Royal Air Maroc… heck, even United used to have a nice canapé offering back in the days of its Four Star and Ocean to Ocean Service.



Cocktail and Canapés


Canapé Close-up


Canapé Close-up


Well now, what better time to peruse and consider the upcoming culinary festivities of the meal service than while sipping fine wine and munching exquisite canapés. I can’t think of any, can you? That said, now might be a good time to top off whatever you’re drinking to accompany this report and maybe heat up a quesadilla or something to accompany your perusal of this evening’s dinner offerings.


DINNER
London to Seattle

Canapés
Proscuitto with melon, smoked salmon with cream cheese and cucumber, fire roasted red pepper roulade with goat’s cheese

STARTERS

Seared Beef Carpaccio
Black truffle, crème fraîche

Loch Fyne Smoked Salmon
Caviar, avocado, wasabi dressing

Double Baked Soufflé
Asparagus, Morel sauce

Sweet Potato Soup

Seasonal Mixed Leaf Salad
Offered with a Dijon Vinaigrette

Warm Bakery Selection
Served with butter and olive oil


MAINS

Slow Cooked Lamb Shank
Celeriac mousseline, ratatouille, rosemary jus

Miso Grilled Poussin
Pickled cucumber, caramelized lemon

Pan Seared Turbot
Crushed herbed potatoes, lobster sauce

Ricotta Stuffed Courgettes
Caponata, courgette crème

Selection of Sides
Turned potatoes, roasted red pepper, baby carrot and baby corn with broccolini


CHEESE

Cornish Yarg
Coated with nettle leaves, this cow’s milk cheese is moist with a slight tangy flavor

Rutland Red
A flaky cheese with slightly sweet, caramelized flavor and rich golden color

Blanche Goat’s Cheese
This goat’s cheese has a wrinkly rind with a smooth texture underneath and a delicate and creamy taste

Yorkshire Blue
A blue cheese with uniform blue veining and creaminess. This cheese is buttery, sweet and mild in flavor

Savory biscuits, plum chutney, grapes and apricots

DESSERTS

Passion Fruit and Hazelnut Tart
Served with vanilla ice cream

Crêpes Suzette
Served with vanilla ice cream

Homemade Strawberry Ice Cream
Fresh strawberries, strawberry coulis and crunchy white chocolate pearls

Fresh Seasonal Berries

SNACKS
Enjoy a light bite at any time during your flight

Popcorn
Selection of Tyrrell’s hand cooked English crisps
Lindt truffles


Hmm…. I think I can come up with a pretty nice meal from all of this. Emily waited patiently while I hemmed and hawed over the appetizer options. Finally, at Emily’s suggestion, I opted for the Seared Beef Carpaccio. I’ll definitely have the soup and salad, and for the main… let’s go with… the Slow Cooked Lamb Shank.