Mama commonplace, yes, but I wouldn't exactly call a $695 annual fee affordable for most. There is certainly a not insignificant population of cardholders who are propped up either by the honeymoon SUB period, retention offers, or fee waivers.
I am not certain if your idea of a "premium" card (truly individual service) exists any more, as even Centurion holders have similar complaints on a different scale.
I still have had fairly good experience with the concierge. Nothing herculean but for my last trip to Japan they were extraordinary in navigating restaurant reservations (who can be notoriously anti-foreigner) and tracking down a few gifts. I think people just need to temper their expectations a little. While wait times have been awful (I just use the callback feature) I have yet to encounter an outsourced call.