Friday, September 24, 2004

Rode the tram back into Riga this morning, then caught my bus south to Vilnius. Heading south out of town, we passed a draconian building that could only be attributed to Stalin. Very similar by sight to the seven (ugly) sisters in Moscow--seven identical buildings around one of the rings in Moscow, all build by Stalin, all very forboding looking.

The busses here have seat assignments that are sometimes enforced. Two young people who were friends sat in front of me when they realized their assignments were in separate rows. Pretty soon, a "Mr Cool" type who had been outside squeezing his girlfriend got on, and insisted they move because he wanted the window seat, which was his assignment. Jeans, black muscle shirt under white striped dress shirt, black denim jacket with the white collar out over the jacket collar--disco style! Wore sunglasses the whole trip, even when raining. Bobbed head up and down in rythm to unknown music emanating from ear buds.

We stopped in several small towns on both sides of the border to pick up and drop off people. Just over the border--this time we had a dog sniff his way through the bus--we stopped at a log cabin roadside restaurant. Wonderful hand carved stuff around--I'll post a picture or two.

Another hour down the road, Mr Cool apparently had too much to drink at lunch, and headed for the WC on the bus, which was not in service that day. I confess to smiling to myself as he squirmed in his seat until the next stop.

In Vilnius, I noticed a young lady in a bus next to us making a disgusted expression at our bus, and I realized Mr Cool had mouthed or motioned something to her. She then avoided looking at our bus altogether. A bit later, we passed a bus with some maybe 13 year old school children, and pretty soon all the girls were waving and smiling at Mr Cool. I'm sure his girlfriend would have been impressed.

Getting off the bus, I tripped Mr Cool and watched him scrape his face and pretty white shirt across the muddy pavement--no, not really, but it's nice to think about...

Trouble finding the right tram, so I grabbed a cab--about $3.00 US to the hotel--well worth it.

Vilnius, what I've seen so far, is a great city! They're wide awake and have embraced their new day. Old buildings are restored and look great, the ugly apartment blocks have been updated with architectural features and color, the people walk around with a sense of purpose that I rarely saw in Riga. There is a concert of Lithuanian composers by the National Symphony tomorrow evening, and I'm going to try to grab tickets. I'm looking forward to my day tomorrow!


Saturday, September 25, 2004

Did I mention that when I arrived at my hotel, the street was gone? Fenced in, dug up, five to ten feet deep in places. A short walk down the sidewalk from where the cab dropped me to the hotel, so not a problem--just amusing! And, the street is being restored beautifully--the old buildings made to look new. It will be even better when the street work is done.

I'm trying hard to think that I didn't care for Riga because of the weather--grey, cold, bitter wind coming off the Gulf of Riga. But no, it was a deeper greyness that was lingering from the Soviet era: progress had been made, yes, but the decay and devastation was everywhere you looked. Symbolic of what I found there was the one english sign in the train station, posted at the information desk at I time I most needed assistance. It read: "We do not have any information on trains. We do not give out tourist information." An information booth in the train station--what other kinds of information could they be asked to dispense?

Riga should still be on a list of cities to visit, but it will be more enjoyable in five or ten years. Focus your time on Tallinn and Vilnius.

Vilnius! What a pleasant surprise! Yes, the sun was shining most of the day, and blue skies were in the majority over the clouds. But everything here besides the weather is welcoming, as well. The many churches in town all had their doors open, except one or two that were under renovation. Even those in poor condition on the outside were resplendent on the inside. The Russian Orthodox church had the relics of three 14th century martyrs front and center in the sanctuary, with their stocking and felt slipper covered feet sticking out from under a blue felt blanket, all under glass. The priest was dissuading tourists from taking pictures there, for what I think was good reason. The inside of the church was incredibly ornate, painted in both pastels and bold greens, gold gilt accenting everything, soaring light dome floating above the relics.

The Dominican church was much less ornate, but had a well adorned altar area. Nice transluscent white linen banners hung from above; the organist was rehearsing a piece with a small group of strings: sublime. The church during Soviet times had been gutted, all interior furnishings trashed or sold, and the building used to store grain.

Each of these cities has boasted a television center, each with a similar sad story to tell. As each of these Baltic republics made their quest for freedom, Soviet troups would head for the television studios in order to take over the airwaves and prevent news of rebellion from being broadcast. Ten to fifteen people were killed trying to defend each of these broadcast centers.

I hiked up to both the Upper Castle and to the Hill of Three Crosses. I'll post pictures of both. The three crosses had been bulldozed during the Soviet occupation; the remains of these monuments are preserved and memorialized just down the hill from the new crosses which have replaced them.

Sadly, there seemed to be more beggars here than other places. None seemed threatening as they might have been in Riga, where they seemed to travel in groups of two or three. Here, sadly, I've seen several children playing instruments on the street (today is Saturday) seeking money, and yesterday evening, a teenager on crutches asking "please help me".

Old town here is also a World Heritage site--I think the old towns in Tallinn and Riga are as well. Lots of narrow cobbled streets to wander, and it seemed that at each church this afternoon, weddings were taking place. I saw one couple being driven through town in what was probably a 1930's Mercedes convertible--he was going to fast for me to get my camera out, though! A great car, and a happy couple.

I started the day seeking out the Frank Zappa memorial, which wasn't too far from my hotel. I had a bit of trouble finding it, and happened on a large building that was probably military in the Soviet era, surrounded by an outdoor market of military decorations and other odds and ends. Working my way around this area, I said "Frank Zappa" to several younger looking people, and all I got were blank stares. Further down the street, I spotted some young people moving out of a flat, and asked if anyone spoke english. One stepped forward, and I asked again. "Oh yes, Frank Zappa. Just take a left here, and he's two hundred meters down the street on the left.

Tonight, the Lietuvos Nacionaline Filharmonija, row 7, seat 18. Tomorrow morning, LOT airlines to Krakow via Warsaw. More later.