I still remember my first "real, adult" long-haul business class flight. It was from JFK to Arlanda on Delta. The crew were all ex-Pan Am. I was pinching myself with delight as a kind flight attendant gave me delicious sweetcorn soup and warm bread from a glistening trolley. It wasn't a fancy seat--it was a 767-300 from Gulf Air with "recliner" seats. But I didn't mind a bit. It was refined, quiet, and relaxing.

There is something about the trolley. It has a sophistication and coordination that no other cabin service can match.

The last time I recall the trolley service done well was on Continental from Newark to Geneva. It was an impressive crew. They stood at the head of each trolley, paused, smiled, and proceeded with each element of the service. The trolleys moved almost in unison down each aisle of the 767. Each visit to a pair of passengers included a bit of chit chat. Each element was served in a practiced, calm, and confident style: the sauce for the starters, the salad dressing, the flags on the cheese. One got the impression that they didn't just take pride in their service, they were genuinely happy to be there. They wanted you to enjoy yourself.

I have eaten the same exact meal many times, but that flight was memorable because they seemed to use the serving trolley as a show rather than a matter of convenience.

In fact, I can think of many occasions in which the crew seemed to be delighted to get out the sundae cart. It was a bit of fun... a treat. They seemed to enjoy cajoling passengers into a little indulgence. Although the dessert trolley on Turkish Airlines is incredible, there is something extraordinary about a flight attendant leaning down and asking if you would like hot fudge or whipped cream.

The last few pre-pandemic flights I took in first class had exemplary service from the crew. All of the flight were on American, and the crew were spot on. But the glitz and coordination of the trolley was a noteworthy absence. The food was actually fairly decent, but it just came hand-delivered from the galley. I slept well, the cabins and WCs were immaculate, I had cozy pajamas. But there was none of the old-timey charm of coordinated, shiny stainless steel carts.

Maybe someday they'll dust off the linens and polish the trolleys.