I have a slight modification of the original question. What's it like, not in pure tourist destinations like Lake Como or Venice, but in major cities such as Rome and Naples? We tend to avoid restaurants and crowded spaces these days, and we haven't traveled since the start of this pandemic. Would a trip to Italy be a bit bleak, weird/uncomfortable as the OP asked, see the sights and get back to the Airbnb quickly? Packed streets and public transportation, city living experiences we'd enjoy normally but now too close for comfort? I'm having trouble visualizing it.

PS I see the infection rate in Italy is flattening off for now, which means it could come down next. Or not.