Over the past two decades, we have methodically checked off many of our bucket-list nature/wildlife destinations around the world (including many of the U.S. national parks); however, there was still a giant hole in our checklist: Alaska. We were aware of it, but just had not prioritized a visit there. Having been to quite a few remote destinations featuring mountains and glaciers (including Antarctica and Patagonia), we had simply been focusing on locations that were harder to get to, required a more hearty constitution (as the saying goes, "do the hard stuff first") and had an abundance of charismatic mammals. Not to mention, Mrs. KI-NRT demands high levels of comfort and service quality wherever we go, and North American wilderness lodges (especially in National Parks) have, with few exceptions, been major letdowns in this regard. We had planned to eventually get to Alaska, but recommendations of two lodges by several of our trusted nature friends (Ultima Thule and Winterlake) had us downright giddy with anticipation of finally visiting America's 49th state. They both fit our criteria of being intimate without sacrificing amenities, and offering privately guided excursions.


One of many magnificent glaciers in the Tordrillo Mountains

We originally booked this trip in early 2019 for a Summer 2020 visit; however, COVID-19 shuttered our plans and forced us to reschedule everything 2021. We were fortunate in getting in touch with the lodges very early, as all three of them are known to get fully booked at a blink of an eye, which is understandable given the very short Alaska Summer travel season and their reputations for being top-tier nature lodges.


Scenery like this were a dime a dozen

The three properties were a great combo in terms of location, experiences on offer as well as comfort. Both Winterlake and Ultima Thule are remote lodges located in the mountainous interior (in the Tordrillo Mountains and Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, respectively), and offered somewhat overlapping geographic features and experiences. Given how bespoke the Ultima Thule outings promised to be, we were hoping to fill in the gaps that Winterlake was unable to fulfill (or simply enjoy the experience should Winterlake cater to all of our desires.) Tutka Bay, by contrast, was located along the coast in Kachemak Bay (near Homer) and had a bit more water-based activities, more civilized comfort, and a bear viewing excursion that we really didn't want to miss. Therefore, we felt that Tutka Bay would serve as a great place to break up the action.


Private jet? Pfft. How about a floatplane instead?

We decided to stay in Anchorage before, after, and in the middle of our journey. We wanted to give our bodies and minds a chance to recuperate before embarking on the adventures, and hopefully allow us to go all-out and maximize the time we had at each place.

Here's what our overall itinerary looked like:

Day 1 - SFO to Anchorage direct flight on United, arriving at 23:00; stay 2 nights at Hotel Captain Cook
Day 2 - Recovery day in Anchorage (Hotel Captain Cook.) Visited the Alaska Native Heritage Center for a few hours
Day 3 - Fly by floatplane from Lake Hood Floatplane Base to Winterlake Lodge (with Rust's Flying Service); (~1 hr. flight)
Day 4 - Winterlake Lodge
Day 5 - Winterlake Lodge
Day 6 - Fly directly by floatplane from Winterlake Lodge to Tutka Bay Lodge (with Rust's Flying Service); (~1:30 hr. flight)
Day 7 - Tutka Bay Lodge
Day 8 - Tutka Bay Lodge
Day 9 - Fly directly by floatplane from Tutka Bay Lodge to Anchorage Lake Hood Floatplane Base (with Rust's Flying Service) (~1:15 hr. flight)
Stay 1 night at Hotel Captain Cook
Day 10 - Fly from Anchorage to McCarthy Airstrip with Reeve Air (~1:15 hr. flight), then fly from McCarthy to Ultima Thule (~25 min. flight)
Day 11-13 - Ultima Thule Lodge
Day 14 - Check out of Ultima Thule, then a full-day excursion. Fly directly to McCarthy Airstrip late afternoon at the conclusion of our excursion.
Fly from McCarthy to Anchorage; stay 1 night at Hotel Captain Cook
Day 15 - Fly from Anchorage to SFO on United

HOTEL CAPTAIN COOK (ANCHORAGE)

There is no luxury hotel in Anchorage, full stop. No RC or StR or Aman or MO or Rosewood. As far as chains go, there's a Hilton, an Embassy Suites, a Marriott and a few other points-earning/redeeming properties. That's it. Our friends recommended Hotel Captain Cook over the others for two main reasons - decent Suite rooms (if you can get them) and superior dining options. On both counts, Captain Cook delivered. It's a relatively large hotel with three separate towers, three restaurants and numerous stores, including several gift shops. It really is a convenient place to pass the time without having to venture outside (you would not be missing much if you didn't.) Our Crow's Nest Suite was very large, had a separate bedroom and living room, and featured two bathrooms (the one in the bedroom had a shower.) The room itself was decently furnished, although you can tell that Captain Cook (along with the entire hotel) was getting up there in age. Still, when you consider that Anchorage is very seasonal when it comes to tourism, you can forgive them for having a few creaks and rattles here and there. Although guests staying at the Crow's Nest Suite get access to the hotel's lounge, it was closed due to COVID. Service was relatively efficient, despite being short-staffed in all aspects. I was surprised by the quality of service, however - many of the staff members appeared to be long-time employees of the hotel. As a result, the level of professionalism and the warmth that they exuded was very nice to see.

Food options were good. There's a restaurant on the lobby floor that serves breakfast/brunch - it's standard fare; we dined there once, and for the other times we had the meals delivered to our room. Fletcher's is a casual restaurant that offers casual fare; again, no complaints. Their pasta, pizza and salad dishes were better than I was hoping for. We also ordered meals delivered to our room from Fletcher's, and most of the time they arrived within 30 minutes of calling them. On the top floor of the main tower is Crow's Nest, the hotel's upscale dining option that offers panoramic views of the Anchorage coastline and surrounding mountains, and the setting is quite romantic. Service was friendly and very polished, and we had no complaints about the food, especially the Salmon, Scallops, King Crab and the Banana Flambay for dessert that was made in front of our table. The food won't blow your mind, but if you have a few hours to spare for dinner, you can do worse than pass the time at Crow's Nest.

One thing to note - several of the guests we met at Winterlake Lodge also stayed at Captain Cook, and their opinion of the hotel was in stark contrast to ours. Both couples were constantly making fun of the low quality of service and the run-down rooms. We do know that none of them stayed in a Suite, so I strongly suggest you do so should you choose to stay at Captain Cook.


Within The Wild Winterlake Lodge

WITHIN THE WILD WINTERLAKE LODGE

Nestled on the banks of picturesque Finger Lake in the southern end of the Tordrillo Mountains, which is between Anchorage and Denali, Winterlake Lodge offers a great wilderness escape without forcing luxury travelers to forgo the creature comforts that they usually get in properties that are less remote. It's also one of the checkpoints along the famous Iditarod race, and unlike most other Alaska lodges, they are open for the Winter/Spring season, catering to Winter sports enthusiasts. Comfortable accommodations, friendly and efficient service, good food and a wide array of activity options make it a great choice for a 3-night stay in wild Alaska.


A view of Finger Lake and surrounds (from Winterlake Lodge)

Winterlake is only accessible by air, from Anchorage's Lake Hood Floatplane base with Rust's Flying Service. Rust's offers a complimentary shuttle service from major Anchorage hotels, and the floatplane base was a short 15-minute ride from Captain Cook. We are not aware of any other options to get to Winterlake (unless you want to fly yourself)... in any case, the floatplane experience is definitely one worth having. One hour after taking off from Anchorage, we landed on the waters of Finger Lake, where we were greeted at the dock by the lodge staff members and guides. After being introduced to our guide that was assigned to us for the duration of our stay (Amory), and signing the obligatory waiver forms, we were shown to our cabin.


The Iditarod Cabin at Winterlake Lodge

We spent three nights at the lodge, which is the standard amount of time that most guests spend at Winterlake. While there are some activities that can be enjoyed around the lodge itself (kayaking, boating, swimming on the lake, light hiking), and you are assigned to a guide that looks after you for the duration of your stay, the majority of the featured outings require a helicopter flight - one heli outing is complimentary and included in the lodge's standard 3-night rate. We paid for an extra heli adventure, and are glad that we did. Whether it's glacier trekking, mountain ridge hiking, dog mushing (sledding) at a glacier camp, rafting or fishing, you'll find yourself somewhat constrained in your options without the ability to fly. There's only so much kayaking and light hiking one can do before realizing that the most unique activities require one to be further afield, and not doing so would sort of defeat the whole purpose of being there in the first place.


Food & beverages at Winterlake were of generally high quality

The Lodge grounds are well manicured, and the main building and surrounding cabins are built in a way that blends in nicely with the environment. There are six log cabins in total, and while they all vary in layout, they all offer similar levels of space and comfort. We stayed in the Iditarod Cabin, which was rustic, charming, and a tad on the tight side when it came to useable space. It's probably average by wilderness lodge standards, but would have preferred separate bedroom/living room spaces (like Ultima Thule and Tutka Bay), and a bit more places to put away our belongings. One thing to note: the property is generator-powered, meaning that hair dryers are not usable (a demerit in Mrs. KI-NRT's eyes, although she found a battery-powered hair dryer on Amazon.com), and WiFi is only accessible from the main lodge area. Also, the generator is shut off between (around) 11PM and 6:30AM, so make sure you time your showers accordingly. The main building houses the dining room, a communal lounge and library that doubles as an indoor yoga room in the morning. There are patios and balconies littered throughout, which gave us the opportunity to enjoy the view of the mirror lake and the stunning mountains further afield. The food is as good as one can expect in such a remote location (everything has to be flown in - even the trash gets taken back to Anchorage.) The cuisine is creative while still being approachable - it's a fresh, innovative take on healthy comfort food using local ingredients... just what we were looking for at a wilderness property. It certainly blows away the sad excuse of gourmet food that is usually offered in other well-known lodges (I'm looking at you, Ahwanee and Lake Yellowstone Hotel.)


One of many perfect moments in the bush

Winterlake's quality of service was very high. The entire lodge staff were very efficient and worked hard to ensure that guests had a comfortable stay. Every request was tended to promptly; they really were snappy in fulfilling our every need. This is all the more remarkable when considering that Winterlake has high staff turnover given its seasonal nature - in spite of several of the staff members working at Winterlake for their very first season, which was exacerbated by COVID-19, the entire operation seemed to go like clockwork. Save for the heli transport, that is (more on that later.)

The morning we arrived, we went on a short, 90-minute hike (on the Red Lake Trail / Iditarod Trail loop) with our guide Amory. While the scenery was nice, and it was a great way to stretch our legs, the area was quite mosquito-infested and the experience paled in comparison to other areas we visited during during our time there. In the afternoon, we went kayaking on Finger Lake - the water was calm with wonderful reflections of the trees and surrounding mountains, and we saw Ospreys, Bald Eagles, Loons and other exotic and delightful birds.


In Alaska, transport by Helicopter is an ideal way get around

For our first full day, we had a leisurely breakfast at 8AM (which is the standard breakfast time each day), then prepared to depart at 9AM for our first helicopter outing.... except that they were short on helicopters (and pilots), so we had to wait our turn until they dropped off other guests at their desired destinations. We didn't leave the lodge, therefore, until almost 10AM. It's not a big deal at all, except that - because of the quick turnaround - they didn't have time to (re-)clean the windows... the front windshield was completely splattered with bugs, which was a bummer for people like me that enjoy taking photos of the incredible landscape. Not a big deal, since our pilot (Tyler) made sure to wipe the windows clean for the return flight. They made up for it the next day, however, where we got one helicopter and pilot (together with our guide) for the entire day (our final full day had multiple groups of guests departing the lodge, with the new groups not arriving until our own departure day), and opted for a glacier trek. This was the one and only indication of COVID having an impact on the lodge operations. And, unlike Ultima Thule, Winterlake contracts out all of the flying, so they have less control over the logistics.


Glacier trekking. With crampons. Not one slip during the entire 2-hour trek!

Anyway, we opted for the glacier trekking tour, and all I can say is... WOW. We've visited many glaciers before, including in Alaska and most recently the Athabasca Glacier in the Columbia Icefields of Jasper National Park. We loved Athabasca at the time, but Trimble Glacier takes it to another level - there's no comparison. First of all, you are given crampons (spikes) to wear over your shoes so you really can really explore the inner bowels of the glacier. Secondly, there are NO OTHER people there. And the glacier is spectacular, with gorgeous blue glacial pools, spooky crevasses and glacial waterfalls that appear to be frozen in time. By comparison, most other glacier experiences in more touristy spots restrict the area you get to walk around, and you're surrounded by hordes of visitors. It's still awesome, but having a glacier to yourself, with a guide to yourself, is really the ultimate form of luxury in our book.


A taste of the Iditarod experience. Without the frostbite.

The following day, we had an all-day excursion - in the morning we started by visiting the dog camp, which is located on a glacier. Winterlake (and Tutka Bay) owner Carl Dixon accompanied us to the dog camp, and joined us in the dog mushing - he's quite the character (you MUST be quirky to call a place like this home), but also super interesting and kind hearted. The dog camp is semi-permanent during the Summer months, and needs to be on a glacier - otherwise, it obviously wouldn't be a snow sledding experience otherwise. At the camp is a small tent that is set up to house a staff member; someone needs to be there at all times (even in the evening) to tend to the dogs. For those with concerns that the dogs might be mistreated or induced into harsh, forced labor, fear not. They were super excited to see us, and it was obvious that they were the ones urging us to get on with the mushing. Even after one long loop around the glacier, they couldn't seem to get enough of it. Carl turned to me and said, "looks like they're still eager to run; let's have another go at it!" Overall, it was a truly memorable experience, and something that very few places offer. Not to mention, we were the only guests there at the time..... Winterlake deliberately allows one group of guests to visit the camp at any given time, resulting in a very intimate experience with the dogs in a spectacular setting.

In case you're interested, here is a video of our dog mushing experience at Winterlake:


The rest of the day was spent flying around with no real set itinerary. We simply explored the amazingly picturesque area by air, with the pilot (Tyler) landing wherever he felt it was a cool place to do so. We stopped at a few more glaciers, had lunch on a gorgeous mountain ridge that featured incredible views of a massive glacier, trekked to two different waterfalls, and landed on a beautiful meadow to gawk at the variety of alpine wildflowers that were in full bloom. What a day!


A spectacular view during our trek atop Golf Course Ridge in the Tordrillo Mountains


Lunch with a view

The private, tailor-made experiences that Winterlake Lodge is able to offer, combined with comfortable accommodations, very good food, wonderful hospitality and the gorgeous environment it's situated in, make it unquestionably one of the premier wilderness lodges in all of North America. Just be sure to inform them in advance of your intention to have two helicopter-based outings; otherwise, it might be a bit too soft of an adventure for people looking to maximize their time out in the wild.


Tufted Puffin at Gull Island

TUTKA BAY LODGE

Included as part of the 6-night Winterlake/Tutka Bay package that we booked directly through Within The Wild was a charter flight between the two lodges, which was super convenient and enjoyable. Guests that choose to only visit Tutka Bay generally get there by taking a commercial flight (with Ravn Air) to Homer, followed by a 30 minute water taxi to Tutka Bay Lodge (the boat ride is managed by the lodge itself.) As an aside: the 6-night combo package not only nets you direct flights between the lodges, but also a charter flight directly from Tutka Bay back to Anchorage. Our flight to the lodge was, once again, via a floatplane operated by Rust's Flying Service, except that this time, it was from Lake to Ocean. The 90-minute flight had us gawking at amazing scenery, but by now it had become par for the course for us! We arrive late morning, which gave us ample time to settle into our cabin, explore the property and get our bearings straight, since Tutka Bay Lodge is a very different lodge that promises a more refined and laid back vibe, at the expense of offering a much softer experience compared to its sister property. And it suited us nicely - after an action-packed time at Winterlake, we were ready to slow down a bit and enjoy the higher standards of creature comforts that Tutka Bay Lodge promised. In that regard, Winterlake and Tutka Bay complimented one another very nicely for us.


Tutka Bay Lodge. A refined and polished experience.

First thing's first... if it's your first time to Alaska, you're looking to experience the remote Alaskan wilderness that you've dreamed about, and you can only stay at one of the two lodges, it's no contest - Winterlake wins, hands-down. It's far more remote, the glaciers are bigger and more awe-inspiring, activities are action-packed, every excursion is privately guided, and the overall vibe of the lodge really gives you the sense of being in a raw, unspoiled land. Tutka Bay, by comparison, is a bit more "civilized" by virtue of being located in a higher-trafficked area, and is more marine-centric in the activities in its immediate vicinity, and the fact that it's "on the grid," meaning you have 24/7 electricity and WiFi in the cabins.


Kittiwake Cabin at Tutka Bay Lodge (main living quarters)


Kittiwake Cabin at Tutka Bay Lodge (upstairs bedroom)

With that out of the way, how does Tutka Bay measure up? Very nicely! The property and its surrounds are gorgeous - it's located in a secluded cove within Kachemak Bay and is surrounded by water, forests and beautiful mountains. The build of the property is relatively low-impact, giving it a nice sense of place. At the same time, it has just about all of the amenities that we expect in a 5-star city hotel - good food, solid internet, comfortable beds, and spacious rooms with tasteful decor. We loved our cabin - "Kittiwake" - it was a 2-story unit with the living room and bathroom on the first floor and the bedroom on the second floor. Compared to Winterlake, it was much more spacious and airy, allowing one to really spread out, relax, and enjoy the indoors as much as the outdoors. And no bugs - unlike Winterlake, there was no need for a mosquito net over the beds. We stayed in a cabin called "Kittiwake," and it was stylish, spacious and very comfortable. The room was maintained very nicely - no need for a refurbishment anytime soon, unlike quite a few "country-style" properties we've stayed at in the past. The common area (which includes the dining room) is also tastefully furnished and decorated, and is the perfect distance from the cabins - far enough to enjoy the walk, but close enough to be convenient. Much of the property is navigated via elevated boardwalks, since the lodge overlooks both a cove in the front as well as two lagoons off to the side, and the difference in water levels between low and high tides is often measured in many tens of feet. I highly recommend you do some tide pooling during low tide; there are some fascinating creatures and natural formations to see, and it doesn't take more than an hour to fully enjoy the experience.


Tutka Bay Lodge has a nice network of beautiful trails around the property

Within The Wild is renowned for offering up great food at both of their properties, but Tutka Bay is the one that's more often mentioned as the place for foodies. In fact, they even have cooking classes, and the executive chef (Kirsten Dixon - wife of owner Carl Dixon) has published numerous cookbooks. While we thought the food was terrific, we didn't feel that it had anything over Winterlake. Not sure if it had to do with Kirsten being out of town while we were there, but I wouldn't be in a hurry in awarding a Michelin Star anytime soon. Still, the dining experience was superior to just about any nature lodge we've stayed at in North America (including Amanjiwo, Amangani and Ahwanee.) Prior to dinner, they serve creative hors d'oeuvres during happy hour, and dinner itself is a 3 or 4-course affair, with awesome bread to go along with it, as well as very nice desserts. Although the variety of ingredients is limited relative to what can be obtained in the lower 48 states, the kitchen staff make the most of the produce (and their cooking skills) to offer dishes that are unique (especially in the seasonings) without trying too hard to be fancy for the sake of it. When you're in the wilderness, you don't want food that's too rich, heavy or alien, and Tutka Bay does a great job at balancing good taste with healthy and light.


A rare sighting of a pod of Orcas in Kachemak Bay

Activity wise, we felt that there were less compelling options compared to Winterlake, but it's really a matter of taste. Whereas we could've easily stayed an extra night or two at Winterlake and not have been bored, 3 nights is probably as much as you need a Tutka Bay. If you're into marine activities (fishing, boating, whale watching, shorebird viewing, tide pooling) or are interested in their cooking classes, the lodge will certainly fill up your itinerary. For us, the "classic Alaska" that we seek is the one that has towering peaks, massive glaciers and icefields, and a remoteness that gives a sense that the place is unchanged from pre-historic times. There is, however, one excursion (included in the 3-night rate as a free option) that really makes a stay at Tutka Bay a worthwhile one, and that's the bear viewing experience.


Bear viewing at Chinitna Bay (Lake Clark National Park)


A mother and her two cubs digging for clams in the mudflats of Chinitna Bay

It's weather dependent, but this all-day excursion is included in the 3-night rate (you can instead opt for deep-water fishing if that is more to your liking), and takes you on a boat ride to Homer, followed by a 10-minute ground transfer to an airstrip where they will then fly you to either Katmai or Lake Clark (Chinitna Bay) to see the bears. Katmai is supposedly the first (and superior) choice, but the weather was not cooperative so we were taken to Lake Clark instead. The plane landed on a beach, then we were taken on a walk to an area where there are mudflats along the coast and a meadow further inland. You're (almost) guaranteed to see bears during the outing, and we saw an abundance of them. Due to the sensitive nature of the environment and the rising number of day-trippers to the area, sadly you are not allowed to stray off the paths and enter into the meadows themselves; therefore, it can be a challenge to get close enough to the bears to get a good look at them. However, you ARE permitted to get quite close to the bears that visit the mud flats to dig for clams. The reason, I was told, was because the mud flats were technically not part of the national park. In any case, we got to spend a good 90 minutes observing them, which was about the right length of time (it's fascinating, but they don't do anything but dig for clams when they're in the mud flats.) The excursion is not private - it's contracted out to another company that manages the tour itself - and they fly everyone out on two planes in groups of 6 people. Once there, both groups are brought together for the trek to see the bears. The other thing to note is that one can easily book these tours independently; opting not to stay at Tutka Bay Lodge would not preclude you from visiting Katmai or Lake Clark, it's just a convenient base from which to begin your journey there, since the planes depart early in the morning, and doing a day-trip from Anchorage (if that's even possible) would make for a very looong and strenuous day.


Bald Eagles feasting on a whale carcass

The rest of our time was spent mainly around the property - unlike at Winterlake, Tutka Bay has a small network of trails on premises that allows guests to venture out on their own, which we did on two occasions. We also went on two wildlife viewing boat trips - once to visit Gull Island to observe Puffins, Kittiwakes and Common Murres, and another to see more general wildlife (Otters, Bald Eagles, etc.) We did luck out in one of our outings... our captain spotted a school of transient Orcas (i.e. "Killer Whales,") and we were able to get a good view of them for about 30 minutes.


An adorable Sea Otter near Tutka Bay Lodge

In stark contrast to Winterlake, not all activities were private (at least when we were there.) Excluding the bear excursion, all land-based activities are privately guided, but our boat outings were not. Tutka Bay only operates one boat, and when multiple groups of guests request the same activity, they will group them together. This was the case with our Gull Island trip. Although our second boat outing was private, we had to prematurely leave the Orca sighting to pick up a group that had finished hiking and take them back to the lodge. Also - although we were "assigned" to a guide (Amory), we really didn't do much with her. We hiked by ourselves, the bear trip was managed by an external operator, and we had a different guide that accompanied us on our two boat trips to see wildlife.


Meals were a delight at Tutka Bay Lodge

As was the case with Winterlake, the staff at Tutka Bay were first-rate. Sam and Scott, who managed lodge operations, were on the ball, and Amy at the front desk was a real gem (and was a terrific host during happy hour), as was the waiter Mike. The three guides (Kelsey, Margeaux and Sam) were great chaperones and wonderful people to get to know, and Mrs. KI-NRT absolutely loved Heidi, the resident masseuse. She was not only a first-rate therapist, but was also an absolute sweetheart of a person.

We were very glad to have stayed at Tutka Bay. The relaxed vibe, great service, fine dining, comfortable accommodations and the memorable bear-viewing excursion gave us a chance to experience a different aspect of Alaska while also allowing us to recharge for the final... and most grueling... part of our trip.


Pretty Arctic Lupine flowers at Erickson Ridge (Wrangell-St. Elias National Park)

ULTIMA THULE LODGE

Remote. Wild and untamed. Spectacular scenery with gorgeous mountains, valleys, lakes and glaciers. To us, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is to "Wild Alaska" what the Maasai Mara (minus the crowds) is to "Out of Africa." It's the largest national park in the U.S. - 6 times bigger than Yellowstone. There's only one road that leads to the park (and then barely enters it before ending.) It features towering peaks and almost no real settlements to speak of, save for a tiny former mining town called McCarthy that is home to a few hundred residents that mainly serve as guides to the area. And there are only have handful of lodges in the park, with the only real luxury option being Ultima Thule Lodge.


Spectacular glaciers at Icy Bay

After a one-hour chartered flight from Anchorage to McCarthy Aistrip late in the afternoon, we met the other groups of guests (two couples did the 6-hour drive from Anchorage to McCarthy, with half of the drive being on unpaved roads.) Shortly thereafter, we were greeted by the legendary Paul Claus, the owner of Ultima Thule and adventurer/explorer/expeditioner/pilot extraordinnaire. Paul flew the eight of us to the lodge from McCarthy, which was about a 25 minute flight through some of the most amazing scenery that cannot adequately be described in words.


Ultima Thule's beautiful lodge grounds

Upon arrival, we met with the rest of the staff members, including Pete, Nick and Zeke; guides Arturo, Loni and Steve (and his wife Patti); waitress Emily as well as Paul's mother Eleanor, his wife Donna and daughter Logan. Just about all of them either grew up in the area or are long-time employees of the lodge - you really have to love the remote Alaskan wilderness or else you won't be there for long. After signing the obligatory waiver forms, we settled in our cabin for a bit before orientation and dinner.


Outside our cabin ("McColl Ridge Sheep Camp")

Our room was dubbed "McColl Ridge Sheep Camp" (there are only four guest cabins total) and was a stand-alone log cabin. It was tastefully furnished, and the attention to detail was extraordinary. Little things from the beautiful flower garden in front of each room, pretty flower pots and fossil rocks decorating the patio area to the artwork and photo frames in the cabin itself gave it a real sense of place. Inside, there is separate living room with a couch, coffee table, desk, daybed and fireplace, and was flanked by two separate bedrooms on each side (the second one was small and had a single bed - great for couples with a child in tow.) The stylish cabin also had two toilets and sinks, which really helped to accelerate our ability to quickly get ready for each outing. A pleasant surprise was the fact that all amenities that are expected in city hotels (but are noticeably absent in many wilderness lodges) were all there.... 24 hour electricity and hot water, WiFi in each room ($15 per 1GB of data consumed, but it was useable speed) and a very comfortable bed. Plenty of space, plenty of peace and quiet, and the ability to be productive and comfortable - we were definitely not left wanting.


McColl Ridge Sheep Camp living room


McColl Ridge Sheep Camp bedroom

Food at Ultima Thule was incredible, even without considering where the lodge is located. Sure, there's an organic garden on-site, but there's only so much you can grow in such a harsh climate (and during such a short period of time before very few plants can possibly survive there.) Just about everything else needs to be flown in... there is no road or navigable river from Anchorage (or McCarthy) to Ultima Thule. Even trash needs to be flown out (almost daily, I'm told.) Breakfast was a hearty affair with fruit, juice, milk, coffee or tea, wonderful bread and pastries and made-to-order eggs and meats. Lunch is packed and consumed during the day's excursion, and was simply and healthy. Think sandwiches, salads and amazing homemade cookies. Dinner tends towards gourmet and is masterfully executed. It's generally a 3 or 4 course offering, including incredible desserts, and all of it is hearty but not heavy, which is perfect after a long day out in the Alaskan wilderness. Although we are trying to cut down on our carb consumption, it was impossible to do at Ultima Thule - bread is wonderful there, and Donna's Sourdough pancakes are worthy of having second servings. If you're going to bust your gut, you might as well enjoy the process, and you definitely will here!


One of the many wonderful (and waist-bursting) carb dishes

At orientation, Paul gave us the lowdown of the area, its history, what we can expect as well as the ground rules (mainly for safety's sake.) Paul then proclaimed that nobody will have a better time over the next 5 days than himself. While we might later argue otherwise, what was not in question was the sheer joy and exhilaration that Paul displayed while exploring the area. How do we know? We were informed during dinner that he would be our personal guide and pilot during our entire stay. At first, we felt a bit intimidated at being in the presence - full time - of one of Alaska's most legendary figures that also had a larger-than-life personality. This fear quickly dissipated once we took off from the lodge the next day, and the three of us were soon grinning ear-to-ear like a downtrodden man that had just won the lottery. In fact, Paul might have taken as many pictures during our excursions as I did, and he's out there every single day!


We hiked to a cliffside cave to see if there was any action. Soon after arriving, a family of Mountain Goats came out to feed on the grasses.

Everything written from this point forward is no way representative of what others can expect from their time at Ultima Thule. Going in, it was hard enough for us to get a sense of what the lodge had in store for us. Visiting its website, reading numerous articles and pouring through mountains of reviews didn't mentally (or physically) prepare us for our adventure, because what they did was all over the map. There are no set menu of activities, mainly because it's private, bespoke and what you do depends on weather conditions and each guest's own interests.


One of the hypnotically beautiful fiords/glaciers at Icy Bay

With that said, every guest "visited the same place" on the first day - the weather appeared cooperative along the Pacific Coast, so everyone was (privately) flown out to a vast area called Icy Bay - it's a long flight out there (about an hour and change), but it's only possible to get to Icy Bay a few days each season, and our first full day at Ultima Thule was one such day. On the way there, we flew over Bagley Icefield, the largest nonpolar icefield in North America. It stretches 120 miles long and 6 miles wide and encompasses numerous glaciers, but even more astonishing is that the ice is up over 1000 meters thick in some places. It's an absolutely mystical, magical and inhospitable place.. an amazing sight to behold. Icy Bay is no less impressive - there are numerous coves, multiple fiords and several massive glaciers, as well as some amazing waterfalls that flow into the ocean. Incredible icebergs floated along the bay, and were often inhabited by Harbor Seals and various shorebirds. We also get jaw-dropping views of tall mountains in the distance, including Mt. St. Elias (on a relatively clear day like we had), that second highest peak in the U.S. after Denali. Paul landed his Piper PA-18-150 Super Cub plane in several different areas (it's perfectly suited to land on just about any surface!), where we explored waterfalls, gawked at the abundance of gorgeous wildflowers and otherwise soaked in the picture-perfect scenery of this magical place. Along the way, we did some light hiking and enjoyed a nice picnic lunch on one of the ridges that afforded a panoramic view of one of the fiords. Throughout the entire time, we (including Paul) were furiously snapping away, taking shots of just about anything and everything, knowing full well that sorting through the photos (and editing some of them) will likely be a process that takes weeks to complete. One thing to mention - even though we were all at Icy Bay, we never saw any of the guests there. It's that expansive of an area!


Glacial waterfalls at Icy Bay


Dall Sheep Rams

We had three other full outings; even though it's a 4-night stay at Ultima Thule, the final day doesn't end until almost 4PM in McCarthy - the final day's outing is almost as comprehensive as the first three excursions; you pack your belongings and leave it outside your room prior to departing Ultima Thule for the last time (they are separately delivered to McCarthy), and then at the end of the excursion your own guide will drop you off directly at the airstrip. Among the highlights: we hiked to the base of a mile-high cliff; had picnic on a ridge overlooking the hauntingly beautiful Barnard Glacier; explored pretty alpine wildflowers in scenic valleys, ridges and meadows (the Alpine Forget-me-not, Alaska's state flower, was particularly noteworthy in its stunning beauty); stalked a herd of Bison on foot; hiked to a Wolf den and trekked to a Bald Eagle's nest. The "activities" in the air were just as action-packed - at least it was for us. At the outset, Paul noticed that I was carrying two Nikon cameras, one with a wide-angle lens (for landscapes) and one with a giant telephoto lens affixed to it. We discussed our mutual passion for (photographically) shooting wildlife, and he offered to open up his plane door if we saw any large mammals that were worth shooting (or, at last attempting to do so!) His Super Cub was specially modified in a way where that the doors could be flipped open, gullwing style, so that the view was not at all inhibited. He told me to sit directly behind him so that we would both have the same view from the plane when he opened up the door (Mrs. KI-NRT was seated next to Paul, which only partially shielded her from the massive wind and excessive fear.) Within a few minutes of our first flight, Paul spotted a Moose, and blurted out over the headset, "Okay, there's a bull Moose in the open meadow up ahead.... I'm going to point it out to you, then I'm going to open up the door and loop back around so that we can try to get a good shot of it." To describe the experience - especially the first time - as a harrowing and exhilarating one would be a massive understatement. Between the turbulence created by the open door to trying to fit the animal in the camera's viewfinder, and then having the right focus and shutter speed settings and getting a good shot... it's a crazy difficult process but something I eventually got a decent hang of. While the photos I took are far from National Geographic material, I had great fun and enjoyed the process and challenge. Grizzly Bears, Black Bears, Dall Sheep, Bison, Moose (including a female with her calf) and Harbor Seals were among the big game that I was able to capture. If such an activity is not for you, fear not - it's not something that most people desire... Paul reiterated that he aims to provide a bespoke, tailor-made experience for each group of travellers, and that one size does not fit all. Your experience will vary based on your interests, and I'm absolutely certain that anyone can have a great time at Ultima Thule (and with Paul.) But the fact that Paul went out of his way to afford me the opportunity speaks volumes at the length in which they'll go to provide a custom experience (well, he also loves doing it, which didn't hurt!)


A bull Moose at the appropriately-named "Moose Valley"


This is how it's done

The other unforgettable aspect was our interactions with Paul himself. He is geniuine - a straight-shooter that is passionate about his work (which is also his main hobby) and the land that he calls home. He is an adventurer armed with so many fascinating stories that he is a legitimate challenger to Dos Equis' Tiberious Leopard for the title of "the most interesting man in the world." From his far-flung expeditions (including Mt. Everest and Greenland) to his past careers (including as a deep sea fisherman - his exploits would make "The Deadliest Catch" seem like a Mr. Rogers show by comparison) to other unique "characters" that he's come across in the wilderness, you'll be perpetually fixated on every word out of Paul's mouth. It's doubtful that he would have run out of interesting stories, even if we spent a full month together with him. Don't take our word for it - whether it was talking to the concierge at Captain Cook or the Rust's Flying Service pilot, everyone knew Paul Claus. Mike Reeve (the owner and pilot of Reeve Air went as far as saying that "Paul Claus is an Alaska state treasure." After spending quality time with Paul, couldn't agree more.


Paul Claus.... the man, the myth, the legend

Speaking with the other guests that were there, they all heaped non-stop praise to their own guides as well. Arturo, Loni and Steve each have their own colorful history, were equally personable, and perfectly tailored the outings to the interests and fitness levels of their guests. All of them are longtime pilots at Ultima Thule, and are true outdoorsmen that will definitely show everyone a great time.

The "Ultima" in Ultima Thule truly lives up to its name. It's in the most remote, wild, beautiful, forbidding place that gave us the sense of being somewhere that's unchanged from prehistoric times. It offers the ultimate Alaskan adventure, without making any compromises.


Nizina River Mile High Cliffs

SUMMARY AND FINAL THOUGHTS

Now, then, how does Ultima Thule compare to Winterlake, you ask? While the latter is a tad less expensive (calculated on a nightly basis), and is in an equally gorgeous setting, a few things tip the scales in Ultima Thule's favor. First of all, Ultima Thule's excursions are "all you want to do," whereas at Winterlake you only get access to the helicopter for one half-day outing. By contrast, at Ultima Thule the pilot is your guide, both are at your complete disposal for the entire day, which gives you the flexibility to visit as many places and do as many things as you can fit in a full day's outing. Although we lucked out on our second day at Winterlake (due to low occupancy), having exclusive access to the helicopter and pilot, but you can't count on that happening. If you want to guarantee such an experience at Winterlake, it will cost quite a bit more for the privilege (assuming it's even possible.) Secondly, the cabins (at least the one we stayed in) at Ultima Thule are a bit nicer than Winterlake, offering more space and slightly better comfort.


Fireweeds in full bloom in the North Fork Tana River area

A few advantages of Winterlake: The awesome private dog mushing experience! The beautiful lake right in front of the lodge, and the ability to kayak on your own, at any time (at Ultima Thule, there are no activities that start at the lodge, and you are not allowed to venture outside of the main property grounds for safety purposes.) The helicopter flights were far smoother and less nausea-inducing than the planes at Ultima Thule (not sure if that's inherently the case or perhaps due to there being more turbulence in the Wrangell-St. Elias area?)


A terrified Grizzly heads for the hills

One note about wildlife viewing: This is not the Serengeti, Kruger or even Yellowstone. It's a harsh place and is not exactly hospitable to a wide variety of animal types. Furthermore, given the remoteness of the lodges (especially Ultima Thule and Winterlake), they are in no way habituated to human presence. Also, since you cannot traverse the wide expanse of remote Alaska by vehicle, much of the wildlife spottings will be by air; if you get to see them on foot it's a chance encounter and will often be a brief one since they'll most likely run away quickly. Unlike in Yellowstone where massive herds of Bison can be seen from the side of a road, in Alaska they will quickly move away if approached by foot. As a result, you will need to learn to appreciate what you see, and realize that this is true nature that you're a part of and accept that you are experiencing a precious moment when seeing animals act in the way they were historically meant to behave.

P.S. - We took hundreds of photos and videos of our Alaska trip. If you're interested in seeing the albums, please drop me a PM.