All Nippon 12
Tokyo Narita to Chicago O’Hare
Boeing 777-300
June 11, 2021
5:00P-2:55P (sked)
5:06P-3:15P (actual)
Flight Time: 11hr44min
First Class
Seat 2A



This trip got off to a rocky start (as I detailed in the Virgin Atlantic forum) – of no real fault of ANA. Long story short: VS never properly reissued the ticket when I changed it from LAX-HND to NRT-ORD. Despite appearing fine with a ticket number listed on both the VS and NH websites, there actually wasn’t a valid ticket tied to the reservation. When this was finally discovered during check-in at NRT, but there was no way to immediately get in contact with VS due to COVID-related reduced call center hours. Using the WhatsApp chat feature to contact Virgin Atlantic, I was told that I was out of luck and would need to rebook for a different day. Finally, the UK call center opened less than an hour before check-in closed. Thankfully, I got a great agent who knew exactly what to do and managed to get the ticket reissued with 5 minutes to spare before check-in closed. The ANA check-in agent was great throughout the long wait, continually apologizing for something that very clearly wasn’t her fault. She even got me a price quote for the flight (just $15,143 USD!) if I wanted to purchase a new ticket – which obviously was a non-starter. My backup plan was to hop on a wide-open United flight leaving an hour later to SFO, but fortunately I didn’t need to exercise that option.

Despite arriving at Narita three hours before scheduled departure, by the time I made it through security I had under an hour before departure time. Currently, due to reduced demand ANA is operating just a single lounge in Narita – the Satellite 5 ANA Suite Lounge – which represents an upgrade to business class passengers but a downgrade for F passengers given the extra crowding. I was curious how busy the lounge would be, as ANA and United both had multiple departures around the same time. Fortunately, although the lounge was fairly crowded when I arrived, they escorted me to relatively empty seating area near the window.




I requested a glass of Champagne – which was promptly delivered and ordered just a plate of yaki ongiri (grilled rice ball) from the noodle bar as I wanted to save my appetite for the feast ahead. Despite Tokyo still being in a State of Emergency with public service of alcohol prohibited in Haneda Airport, since Narita Airport lies in Chiba Prefecture - which was only observing a “Quasi State of Emergency” at the time – alcohol service was permitted in the lounge. Additionally, the noodle bar and the regular buffet was open to all lounge guests although all buffet items were pre-wrapped.





After less than 20 minutes in the lounge, boarding was announced for NH12 to Chicago and I made my way to Gate 27 – roughly a 10 minute walk and located behind my favorite (and presently shuttered) United Club. Boarding was well underway by the time I made it to the gate, and I made the coveted turn onto the first jetbridge and quickly stepped into the rarified ambiance that is ANA’s new “The Suite” F cabin. This was my first time experiencing the new Suite product, and I was blown away by the improvement over ANA’s lackluster First Square seat. Currently, The Suite product is only guaranteed on the JFK and LHR routes but my aircraft was swapped to the new product about a week before departure, per my ExpertFlyer aircraft change alert (highly recommended). My initial impressions were very favorable – the massive 43” 4K monitor, dark wood accents, and more open design make this a tremendous improvement over the previous First Square seat. Not to mention you can actually look out the window from the window seats! Additionally, I found the design very intuitive and functional with plenty of well-thought-out storage spaces.




My flight attendant for the next 12 hrs, Inoue-san, came over to introduce herself and offer a pre-departure beverage. Yes, a real pre-departure beverage served in a real glass in COVID times! I requested a glass of Champagne, and she promptly returned with both a proper flute of Champagne and glass of water. Like some premium airlines in First Class, ANA opens a less expensive bottle of Champagne on the ground – in this case it was the NV Duval-Leroy Brut Reserve from business class – a perfectly drinkable bottle that I’ve enjoyed many times. I was also presented with a stylish Globe-Trotter amenity kit featuring The Ginza amenities and some sleepwear for the flight.




The First Class cabin of 8 seats filled with just one additional passenger who was seated across the cabin from me in 2K. Up until about two days before departure, I was the only one booked in F so he was a relatively late addition. The rest of the flight was quite empty, with only a handful of passengers in both business and coach. In total, there were about 30 passengers onboard. Better than the last few flights I’ve flown to/from Japan, but still a far cry from where the loads should be right now.

Following profuse apologies (in true Japanese fashion) from the purser for our mildly late departure, we pushed back 6 minutes behind schedule for a quick taxi out to runway 16R. ANA has continued with its hilarious Kabuki-themed safety video – which looked great from the massive monitor in my suite.




As we climbed out of Narita with a great view of the Choshi Peninsula off the left side of the aircraft on an uncharacteristically clear day for mid-June, the purser came by with today’s menu. I had already decided to try the western option, because this is one place where I feel ANA really excels (and because I’d been mostly eating Japanese food for the past few weeks!). But, let’s have a look at the extensive food and drink offerings for today’s flight to Chicago:










Inoue soon came by with a half-bottle of Krug (perhaps one of the few COVID cost-savings measures I observed – if you can even call that cost-savings) and ANA’s amuse-bouche tray.




Next up was the dinner setup and a choice of warmed bread from the basket.



The caviar course with Scottish salmon, while not in the traditional presentation of bilinis and crème fraiche, was delicious and beautifully plated. All the components of the starter paired harmoniously with each other.



Salad was next. Nicely presented with an edamame dressing.



I was expecting the main course next, but Inoue come out with bowl of corn soup and asked me if I wanted to give it a try. It didn’t feel right to send it away – although I hadn’t even realized corn soup was on the menu up until that point. All told, I probably could have passed on the corn soup.



Finally, the main course: an exquisite wagyu filet perfectly cooked to medium-rare and nicely plated with peppers and a rosemary/tamari soy sauce. In my opinion, entrees like this is where ANA truly shines – even compared to other Asian carriers in First Class. Absolutely excellent and, quite honestly, one of the best steaks I’ve ever enjoyed while airborne.



Accompanying the wagyu was Kenzo’s superb Rindo red blend. I could not imagine a better pairing! Ironically, I first became aware of Kenzo Estate not flying ANA but in JAL F years ago and have since fallen in love with the Kenzo Estate. I highly recommend visiting the vineyard if you are in Napa – the estate is beautiful and last time I visited lunch was catered by Bouchon Bistro. Getting to enjoy this bottle inflight was a real treat. Kenzo also has a couple of tasting rooms in Tokyo where all of his wines are available by the glass.



After several Rindo top-offs, Inoue-san stopped by to inquire what I wanted next. I asked for a small portion of the cheese plate followed by the peach granite. Both were excellent – but I greatly appreciated the delicacy of the peach shave ice with coconut sauce and vanilla ice cream. Honestly, I’m not even sure ice cream was supposed to be part of the dessert (it wasn’t on the menu) – but it worked perfectly.




Dinner service wrapped up about three hours after takeoff – which was a perfect leisurely pace for my taste. Of course, with a dedicated flight attendant for each the two first class passengers, the meal pacing was very customizable. I spent a couple of hours reading before noticing a faint sunrise as we flew parallel and a few hundred miles south of the remote Aleutian Island chain.



I ordered a nightcap of Hibiki 17 and was even presented with a second mini bottle to enjoy. ANA’s exceptional Japanese whisky options must be highlighted. Currently, Hibiki 17 is offered in F on all routes except New York, London, and Frankfurt which feature the even more amazing Hibiki 21. By my taste, the two best whiskies offered by any airline inflight. Even JAL no longer serves Hibiki 17 in F – so it’s truly a treat to enjoy a dram while over the desolate Northern Pacific.




Inoue arranged my bed in 2D – the suite across from me – and I managed about five hours of sleep before being woken oven South Dakota roughly 90 minutes prior to landing, as requested. I purposefully limited my sleep this flight so that I would be tired enough to sleep again once I got to the east coast.

Still fairly full from dinner, but not waiting to go without a final ANA F meal, I ordered the Japanese set plate that featured a grilled swordfish with onion in a ginger sauce. Everything was very good, including the natto (which, admittedly, is a bit of an acquired taste/texture).




I finished out with a fresh fruit plate and encore of the previous night’s peach granite – this time in a different presentation without the ice cream but equally delicious.




We dodged some weather descending into Chicago, flying east all the way to Lake Michigan before turning west over downtown Chicago for ultimately an east landing on RWY 10C. Not the most efficient arrival into O’Hare, but I wasn’t complaining with the extra time in The Suite.

After a smooth touchdown and 15-minute taxi over to the international terminal, we arrived on the stand about twenty minutes behind schedule. I thanked Inoue-san for her fantastic service and was first off the aircraft from door 2L to make my way through customs to my separate United connection to New York.

All in all, an excellent flight. ANA’s new Suite product is a significant improvement for their first class offering and ANA’s catering, thankfully, remains untouched by COVID cutbacks. The inflight service was very good, despite some language barriers, and it’s really hard to find fault with anything. Without a doubt, flying ANA F for just 60k VS miles remains one of the absolute best deals out there. Hopefully I’ll be able to make use of my three additional tickets in the coming year as I imagine this particular award is ripe for devaluation.