Chapter 13: On a Night Boat in Greece, continued

For the full Greek night boat review and a few more pictures thrown in, you can read the entire article on my website (Disclaimer: This link is to a website to which I contribute/have a financial interest).

Land in sight

After a short while, the Turkish coastline could be seen in the far distance from the port side of the ship. From this moment on, we would sail parallel to the coastline all the way until we reached Kastellorizo.About 45 minutes before arrival, we were already close enough to the coastline that you could clearly spot the Turkish seaside towns and the green mountains of mainland Turkey.







Island of Ro

There is one sight of interest during the crossing between Rhodes and Kastellorizo. Just before reaching Kastellorizo, the ship will pass by the uninhabited island of Ro, which you will see (most likely) on your starboard side.

If it weren’t for its geographical location close to mainland Turkey, Ro would be just be an insignificant, barren island.

For Greeks, it is however much more than that as the island runs deep in their national psyche. The reason? One elderly widow named Despina Achladiotou, who is better known as ‘The Lady of Ro’.

Despina is famous for raising the Greek flag on the island every single morning, no matter the weather or her own physical condition.

When her husband died in 1940, Despina continued living all alone on the uninhabited, barren island, still proudly displaying the Greek flag every single day.

Especially in those years this was quite special as back then the island did not yet formally belong to Greece. In the Treaty of Sèvres of 1920, Ro was awarded to the Italians just like the neighbouring islands of Rhodes and Kastellorizo – and this remained the case until the end of World War II.

After a brief British occupation, Ro was finally awarded to Greece in 1947 – but that did not stop Despina from continuing her tradition.

She managed to raise the flag every day until she passed away at in 1982 at the high age of 92 – having lived all the time as a hermit on Ro.

The Lady of Ro was buried with full military honours on her own island, on which the Greek army now has a few soldiers stationed to continue the flag-raising tradition.


The island of Ro as seen from the ferry.


The island of Ro – with Kastellorizo coming in sight in the far distance.

Asia Minor

As the ship slowly approaches Kastellorizo, the Turkish coastline will also come closer into view. After all, at its closest point, there is only two kilometres of sea separating Kastellorizo from Turkey!

The Turkish town opposite Kastellorizo is Kaş, a small but relatively popular holiday destination some 168 kilometres west of Antalya.

Just like many more places in Asia Minor, its population was majority Greek before the Greco-Turkish War of 1919–1922, which saw the Greek Army being driven into the sea by a revigorated young Turkish republic under the command of Mustafa Kemal, better known as Atatürk.

What followed was the Megáli Katastrofí (Great Catastrophy) as the Greeks call it, in which hundreds of thousands Greeks from Asia Minor were killed, with most of the survivors fleeing to the Greek mainland or islands or being forcefully expelled there.

In a similar way, many ethic Turks were forced to flee or were expelled from Greece in what was becoming a major population exchange. The rivalries and tensions which it caused can still be felt in the region.




The barren western coast of Kastellorizo


On the port side of the ship, you can clearly see the houses of the Kaş suburbs.


Getting closer and closer to Kastellorizo.

Arriving at Kastellorizo

Kastellorizo has to be one of the most beautifully located harbours of all of Greece thanks to the mighty backdrop of its steep cliffs set against the aquamarine waters of the bay and the elegant, pastel-coloured waterfront mansions.

Many sailors will tell you that the Port of Kastellorizo is a great natural anchorage. In fact, some would even say that Kastellorizo is the best natural harbour between Piraeus and the Middle East!

On deck, people are in full anticipation of the moment when the ship finally rounds the island’s western cape and sails into the bay in which Kastellorizo Town is located. After rounding the cape on your starboard side, you are well advised to head to the port side on deck for the best arrival views.

As the ship sails into the bay, look out for the old mosque and minaret on the waterfront as well as the ruins of the hilltop castle right above it!


Rounding the western cape of Kastellorizo as the harbour bay comes in sight.


A Greek navy vessel guarding the entrance to the harbour.




At this point, no more than two kilometres of water is separating the island of Kastellorizo (left) from the Turkish coast (background).


The first proper glimpses of Kastellorizo Town.


On your left-hand side, you can clearly see the old Ottoman mosque and the hilltop castle ruins.






Kastellorizo is well-known for its elegant pastel-coloured waterfront mansions.


Docking at the Port of Kastellorizo.

Disembarkation calls

At this point, you will likely hear some loud disembarkation calls from the ship’s loudspeakers.

However, given that Kastellorizo is the final stop of the ferry route and thus the intermediate turning point before the long voyage back to Rhodes (and Piraeus), there is plenty of time to disembark at a leisurely pace.

You are well-advised to stay on deck until the ship has properly docked as the views are just absolutely stunning and you really don’t want to miss even a minute of it.

You certainly do not want to miss the moment when the ship makes a 45 degree turn to its starboard side in order for the rear cargo doors to align with the dock, as at this moment you will have a full panorama view of Kastellorizo Town.

Again, remain standing on the port side for the best views of Kastellorizo’s drop-dead gorgeous waterfront.


Arrival

After making some last pictures of the beautiful waterfront from the deck of the ferry, I took my luggage and headed a few floors down to the car garage in order to disembark the ferry.

Kastellorizo is small, which means that you can easily walk to whatever place in town you are staying for the night.

I simply had to walk for five minutes down the waterfront to my accommodation, although I couldn’t help but stop a few times to make some more snaps of the cute houses.

When you look back at the anchored ship, you suddenly start to respect the fine steering skills required by the captain to dock such a large vessel like the Blue Star Chios.

Once turned to its docking position, the bow of the ship almost reaches the other side of the harbour!






Disembarking the Blue Star Chios at the Port of Kastellorizo.


Only when you look at the Blue Star Chios from a distance do you realise it has almost the same length as the full width of the harbour!

Next up: Exploring the gorgeous island of Kastellorizo