I really enjoyed my few days in Polynesia and it was soon time to head towards the next stop of my adventure. For my first real transpacific flight ever, I wanted to travel in comfort, especially given that this 8-hourish flight was a night flight.
Options ex-PPT are quite limited; with most of the flights going to California (SFO or LAX) or New Zealand (AKL). A Handful of weekly flights also go to Australia, Japan or Chile, but the number one international route ex-PPT remains to Los Angeles, with some services in continuation to Paris CDG (That was before the COVID-19 pandemic - nowadays, most flights between PPT and CDG fly via Vancouver). Air Tahiti Nui, the international carrier of French Polynesia and Air France both operate the PPT-LAX route, codesharing some services together, with AF usually operating the morning departure and TN the midnight departure. Given this quasi-monopoly, the revenue tickets, even more in premium cabins and flying one-way can get very expensive. Although United came in the market a couple years before with their SFO service, with the low cost French bee also flying to CDG via SFO, revenue tickets remain pricey ex-PPT. The last viable option for me was to look for an award ticket, without much hope given how popular Papeete flights can be for award redemptions...
So I when I started to look for award tickets using Flying Blue miles in June 2018 (so 8 months before departure), I was very surprised to see decent availability every 2 or 3 days around this period, with most of the flights being operated by Air Tahiti Nui, and not Air France, (although Air Tahiti Nui has their own FFP) at quite reasonable rates (remember, one way tickets in business can be around 2000 Euros on this route). The "cheapest" business class tickets started at 72000 FB miles, including for the specific flight I took, but since it took me a couple days to decide in booking, the price jumped at 92500 miles +120 Euros of taxes when I booked (I understood later that Flying Blue was also operating a dynamic pricing for TN operated flights - I noticed that flight dropped back to 72000 miles a couple months later, but I did not dare trying to cancel this booking to make a new one back then). Since I personally value flying blue miles around 0,6 cents each, this was a decent deal. Cherry on the cake, this flight was supposed to be operated by TNs new dreamliner, which is a net improvement, especially in business class compared to their historical fleet of Airbus A340-300...
Air Tahiti Nui's business class on board Boeing 787-9. Flat seats in 2-2-2 configuration.
Award ticket issued !
It's about a couple months before departure that I noticed that there has been some aircraft changes as I did set an alert on Expert Flyer. Air Tahiti Nui had to adjust some maintenance schedules and since their fleet was not yet back then fully dreamliner-equipped, my flight got changed for an old Airbus 340. Unfortunately, given the scarcity of flights at this particular date (and anyway the lack of award tickets available only 2 months before departure), I opted to keep that booking the way it was.
I arrived at Faa'a airport about 3 hours before departure, and the Air Tahiti Nui's check-in counters were quite busy. I indeed used the priority lane and my check-in was completed after waiting about 15 minutes. As this was a one way booking to the US, the agent asked me a proof on onward travel out of the US and I was anticipating getting some special attention at the security (although I did not see the SSSSS on my BP).
PPT check-in counters, in open air
Priority check-in, also for priority pass card holders it seems !
Counters had just opened
First surprise I discovered at online check-in : My flight was actually scheduled for 00:20, and not 23:59 as initially booked. Schedule changes can happen, especially when booked 8 months out, but an email notification would have been appreciated - just like I did not receive any aircraft change notification from the airline !
Boarding pass and lounge invitation in hand, I was ready to queue for security ! note that the BP still mentions the old departure time...
The terminal was not yet open and I queued something like 15 additional minutes before the doors to passport control and security opened.
The terminal was not yet open
While standing in line, a over-zealous agent decided to weigh every single carry on bag of passengers in the line as only 8 kg per carry-on seemed to have been allowed. My luggage was weighed at 12,8 kg as I recall and I had to negociate / argue a bit with the agent, claiming higher allowance for business class and status passengers to be cleared to go (we tolerate up to 12 kg she told me). Fortunately, the lady did not notice my backpack behind my back, also weighing 12 kg I assume :-)
Cleared to go !
Only one passport control booth was open...
... such as only one security lane
There was no priority lane for passport control or security, and the entire process took may 20-30 minutes to be completed. As I anticipated, I got a secondary screening in a separate area after the main security check point where my belongings were throughfully examined (and it took a bit of time due to the amount of electronics I had in my backpack). The agent was however friendly. By 21:45 I was cleared to go airside...
Cleared to go after secondary screening !
Faa'a airport is pretty small, and since it is not technically in a closed building, the air was like outside that evening : very stuffy. The only area of the airport which seems to be air conditioned is the Air Tahiti lounge located upstairs and it is the only lounge of the airport. I don't recall seeing much in the terminal otherwise, besides a food outlet and a dutyfree store.
Air Tahiti Nui Lounge in PPT
LATAM and Hawaiian are the only 2 airlines flying out of PPT who does not seem to have a membership with this lounge. I enquired the agent about it and it seems to be due to the fact the lounge is closed during departure hours of the weekfly LATAM flight to Easter Island and SCL and Hawaiian flight to HNL.
I got granted access to the lounge by a friendly agent thanks to the invitation I got during check-in (because of business class booking, not sure my status would have granted me access to it). This was unfortunately not the case for a couple of Americans who also had a business class booking for the same flight as me but booked under the AA-codeshare. I really struggled understanding why they got denied entry : They had a business class ticket on a TN-operated flight, although AA-marketed and the gentleman had EXP status with AA.
Anyway, as the lounge was not very busy yet, I immediately enquired if I could use the unique shower room of the lounge, and enjoyed on the spot a much needed and refreshing shower.
TN lounge entrance PPT
Mens restrooms, where the shower is located
Shower room, nothing luxurious, but still great to have under tropical climates before taking a red-eye...
When I stepped out of the restroom 15 minutes later, the lounge got much busier and all the good window seats were already taken. I was feeling a bit hungry and headed to the buffet. Better than Air Calin's lounge in NOU, but still not in par with a premium product you could expect when paying thousands of dollars...
The lounge got busier qfter I stepped out of the shower room
Departures of the day...
TN lounge buffet. It got refilled a few times during my visit.
Hot snacks
Booze selection
My pre-flight dinner...
Outside views from the lounge
Next to me were seated Gordon and Catherine, a couple of retired Americans on their way back home in Palm Springs, CA and who enjoyed a 10 day vacation in Polynesia, we started to talk after they noticed me taking pictures of my "dinner" and taking some notes about it. I explained my adventure and shared a few tips for their future travels, it was a nice discussion and the hour spent with them before boarding flew pretty fast. Like most of the business class passengers that day, they were still thinking they would be flying with the Tahitian dreamliner that evening as they were disappointed to be downgraded to the 340 on their way to Tahiti. I was the bearer of bad news when I informed them that the story would repeat again that evening, up to the point the other table neighbours also got annoyed of this aircraft change !
F-OSUN "Moorea" Airbus 340-300 was our ride to LAX that day
Around 23:30 we went downstairs and boarded the aircraft a few minutes later...
I prefer ATN's new livery...
Boarding F-OSUN
Air Tahiti Nui TN102 (code share AF5103) – February 12th 2019
PPT - Papeete Tahiti Faa'a Intl - 0020
LAX - Los Angeles Tom Bradley Intl - 1030
Airbus A340-300 – F-OSUN – Seat 04A, Business class, window.
After being welcomed onboard by the crew, I swiftly headed to my seat 4A, the business class cabin was already half full when I got there. Although the configuration of the new business class cabin on the 787 is just like on the old 343, also in 2-2-2 configuration, the business class seat on the 340-300 is a old recliner seat which cannot go full flat (In French, we would call this a "slide"). It is indeed still better than flying in the back, but it is not as good as newer business class products. As I was watching other passengers boarding the cabin, I could also see their disappointment and surprise of not being onboard the dreamliner. Some passengers even complained about this to the crew, who honestly... could not do much about this situation... The usual water bottle, pillow and blanket, noise cancelling headphones and amenity kits were already on the seat.
Seats 4A and 4C
Seat 4A
Old fashioned, not in a stellar condition but ok.
Leg room was good !
Power port and an old fashioned headphone socket
Seat controls. The seat is angled flat, not full flat
My seat mate eventually arrived at the end of the boarding and it was the Texan man who had issues getting in the lounge a couple hours before, due to the ticket being AA-issued. He was actually travelling with his daughter and wife who were seated in the central seats of row 1. We discussed for a good couple hours at the beginning of the flight, nice chap, although we had different views about many things in life (just don't mess with Texas :-))
A welcome drink was served before closing doors and I opted for a glass of bubbly. The F&B menus were also distributed, with a selection of newspapers.
Pre departure drink, Charles Heidseck for me
Amenity kit. My girlfriend loved the contents a couple months later !
Note the Tiare flowers on the FA's heads...
We took off from the PPT's only runway at 0020 sharp and the dinner was distributed about an hour after. The dinner was actually more a old snack than a proper dinnen given the late departure of this flight.
We took-off at 0020
PPT-LAX business class menu. I don't have pics of the wine list, but can retrieve it if interested...
Welcome oshiboris...
... Followed by the cold snack plate. It was ok. Mahi-mahi mousse with pineapple and bulgur salad, cheese, fresh fruits and exotic fruits tart for dessert.
At least they had fancy tea selection !
The service was ok as far as I recall and given the late hours of that flight, the lights were dimmed soon after take off and the dinner service was optional - the crew asked every passenger if they would like to eat something.
The "dinner" ended around 2 am, and I was starting to feel the fatigue of my day so eventually went to bed...
Lavatory break before going to bed...
And good night !
Although the seat was not "full-flat" I recall sleeping almost 4 hours straight and woke up when the crew was starting to distribute breakfast.
Breakfast around 6.30 PPT time
Paradise in the galley...
The cabin was still partly dark when I woke up.
Breakfast consisted in two courses, roasted pork Tahitian style first followed by a classic choice of omelette or pancakes. I opted for the latter. I could not recall if that was ok or better (so probably, it was just ok)
Breakfast with Tahitian pork filet - looks very lean
Pancakes
This is what the seat looks like in the flattest position.
Approaching LAX, almost a straight line from PPT.
As we were approaching LAX with clear skies, I could enjoy views on the California coast line, with the Catalina islands and the tentacular city of Los Angeles...
California coast line
Santa Catalina island I believe
Tentacular city which is LA
Final approach on LAX
We touched down at 10:20 and parked at a remote position.
Welcome in LAX
Don't get fooled by the jet bridge, this is actually a remote stand...
A couple of buses were waiting for us
F-OSUN in LAX
We were packed in buses and carried to Tom Bradley's International Terminal ground floor, the ride took about 10 min or so...
Luxury transfers, provided to you by Los Angeles World Airports...
At least we could do some plane spotting on the way. EVA Air's Hello Kitty 777-300
Tom Bradley international Terminal. I know the entire configuration now that I did build it's 1:500 miniature cardboard version during last year's lockdown ! :-)
Welcome in America...
US immigration was the usual zoo, but this time, the automatic kiosks were available. You still need queue and see an immigration officer, but at least you can answer the basic questions on the screen in your preferred language.
US Immigration at it's best.
But the new automated kiosks were available !
After a few usual questions from the CBP officer (what is the purpose of your visit and how long will you be staying in the US : I will be staying for 3 days only coming back from Tahiti and my next stop will be Paris), I got my passport stamped with no further questions.
With the queue at immigration, the luggage was already on the belt when I got to the luggage claim and there was another line of 20 min to clear customs. All in all, I was outside TBIT short before noon, after landing at 10:20 at LAX ! The Hertz shuttle bus brought me swiftly to the remote rental car center afterwards...
92500 FB miles for a one-way trip between PPT and LAX on an old 340 now seems a bit pricey. Since the award price dropped a couple months after my booking to 72000 miles, I tried to get Flying Blue refund the difference in miles adding to the picture the un-notified aircraft type change (without much hope to be honest). With no hopes in mind, I was not disappointed by FB and go nothing back at all :-)
The flight was ok, I was grateful to have lounge access in PPT and enjoy a refreshing shower there (not sure I would have got access with my FB Platinum status alone if not travelling in Business class, although I could have accessed the lounge with my Priority Pass membership now I see). I got my 4 hours of beauty sleep and got a last polynesian taste before heading back to the continent, but this was certainly not the most memorable flight from this round-the-world journey.
Next : Joshua Tree National park.