Chapter 11: Astypalea Town, continued.

For the full Astypalea Town article and a few more pictures thrown in, you can read the entire article on my website (Disclaimer: This link is to a website to which I contribute/have a financial interest).

Skala

The next day I picked up my rental car and went on to explore a huge chunk of Astypalea and to visit some of the island’s best beaches, something which I will detail in depth in the next chapter.Having returned from my drive in the late afternoon, there was one important part of Astypalea Town left which I didn’t manage to discover yet: the small fishing harbour of Pera Gialos, which is often simply called Skala by the locals.

Until recently, Skala was also the main port of the island of Astypalea, although nowadays all ferries use the small port of Agios Andreas, located in the middle of nowhere some 7 kilometres away by road.

This means that Skala is nowadays essentially a fishing village, even though it feels like just another neighbourhood of Astypalea Town being fully intertwined. As the entire hill is built up all the way from Skala down at the sea to the hilltop Kastro, you don’t really see the distinction between Skala and Hora when looking from afar.

From the entrance of Hora – or anywhere along the main coastal road higher up on the mountain – it is a steep climb down to Skala by road or steps.

Once you hit the waterfront, you will find plenty of local taverns, shops and services. In fact, most of the shops and services of Astypalea Town, such as the local banks, are located here and not in Hora!

At the far end of Skala, at the intersection with the main coastal road, you will also find the island’s biggest supermarket (Kritikos), which is a handy place to stock up on supplies if you stay in a self-catering apartment or studio.


Pera Gialos, also known as Skala, is basically the lower half of Astypalea Town on the waterfront.


From Hora, it is a steep climb down to Skala on the waterfront, involving many steps.


The Skala waterfront is certainly pretty too and has a whole different vibe compared to the winding streets of Hora.


The views over the Kastro of Astypalea Town are excellent from the Skala waterfront.





Seafood taverns

Although Skala does have a stone beach, it doesn’t rank among the best beaches on the island of Astypalea in my opinion, although it would certainly do for a quick dip if you don’t have a rental car to drive somewhere else.

One thing which the Skala beach does have, is many seaside taverns, some of them even having tables right on the beach of overlooking them. Most of them have superb views as well over Hora and the hilltop Kastro, making them great locations for a seafood meal.

That was exactly what I did for dinner on day two on the island, sitting down at ‘Akrogiali’ for some grilled octopus and a Greek salad.

Although the Skala harbour opens up to the sea on the east and the sun sets on the wrong side behind a hill, the skies still gave away some gorgeous purple and red sunset colours.

After a great meal and a few glasses of white wine, I climbed up the hill again to my studio to end day two on Astypalea.











Day three

On day three on Astypalea, I again used the entire day to tour the island with my rental car, only to return to Astypalea Town in the late afternoon to check out of my studio and to pick up my luggage for my overnight ferry to Kastellorizo.

Of course, I had to make one last walk through Hora and to absorb the last views over gorgeous Astypalea Town before driving down to the ferry dock. These views never grow old, really!







Conclusion

I’ve visited many lovely Greek islands, but Astypalea really is a class apart. Although there are plenty of attractive beaches and towns on the island, it is Astypalea Town itself which is the true highlight.

With its picture-perfect vistas, winding lanes, old windmills and hilltop castle, it really is something like a crown jewel of the Aegean Sea. When people think of beautifully located Greek towns they will without doubt mention Santorini, but Astypalea Town is absolutely magical too.

Whether you admire the town from afar during day or night, explore the small alleys, or sit down at one of the great cafés and taverns, there is so much to like about Astypalea Town!

Perhaps the best part of it all is that the place is relatively undiscovered among foreign tourists. Some 90 percent of annual visitors are Greeks from other islands or the mainland, which means that Astypalea still retains its authentic character and off-the-beaten-path atmosphere.

Astypalea Town really is one of Greece’s best island capitals and I cannot recommend a visit enough to this fabulous place.

Next up: Exploring the Astypalea's beaches, interior and other villages