My partner and I were in the mood to take one last summer holiday. We have been doing bike tours all summer long and spent six weeks on the road, camping all over Europe. (we are writing a book now about all the cool things we have done this summer) We were surfing the web for low cost airfares and the big one here in Europe is Ryanair. Heidelberg is not too far from Frankfurt Hahn (HHN), the 'off the beaten path' airport is located. (it used to be a military airport, now converted to commercial use). Our web search revealed an Internet special by Ryanair. One-way to Jerez, Spain (XRY) was 11.99 € (tax and airport fees not included) The only trick to Ryanair's cheap fares are, your return trip fare is also negotiable. "Aye, there's the rub!" So we had to search day for day what the cheapest return fare could be. Most were in the 99 € range but we finally found one for 29.99€ that got us back a week later. A decent holiday length. You must be very flexible to take advantage of one of these LCC's. You are at their mercy but you can find some really great deals if you can fit into all the criteria (read "hoops"!) they demand of you. One other 'hoop'… the flights usually take place at off peak hours. Our flight to XRY was scheduled at 6:45am and the return flight was at 9:20am. We had to be creative to get on board both those flights at such an early hour.

Our adventure begins with how to get to HHN early enough to do check-in and get a good pick of a seat. On Ryanair there are no seat assignments, first to check-in gets to pick any seat available. For the Hahn airport there is a bus for 16€ that leaves Heidelberg at a time geared to each flight flying out. We decide to take a bus the evening before our flight, get to Hahn and sleep in the airport (we did this at Ciampino airport outside of Rome last year). Hey, this is a low cost trip! We are saving as much money as we can for this holiday! We set our tent up in the parking lot and we were reasonably rested, packed and standing in line when the CA's showed up to begin check-in at 4:30am. We are one of the first through the security line as we have only carry on bags for this trip. Our wait in the lounge area is pleasant. There is a small counter serving food, coffee or sandwiches and a duty free store. The building is a prefab and very basic. You can see where the low cost comes in. No frills is certainly a signature of this building. When it comes time to board you once again que up. Families are called to board first but it is still first in line, first to board. The boarding pass one receives has a number on it that puts you in a group of "first boarding group" or "last boarding group". We walk out on to the tarmac and board up the stairs. This reminds me of the old Piedmont days when I flew out of Lynchburg VA!

We are on a 737 with 3 seats on each side of the isle. All seats are coach class. Families are sitting up front. The seats recline OK and are a bit wider than some I have been on in major carriers. Our flight is to last just over 2 ½ hours with arrival time at 9:20am. We take off on time without a hitch. In the air we are offered a 'fine selection of sandwiches and drinks" for a price. Most are 5€ each. I have yet to sample Ryanair's food as I always either bring something to eat before the flight or not in the air long enough to warrant a need for a meal. But this is the way these LCC's do it. All is for sale. There is no 'free lunch'. The flight goes well and we land 20 minutes early.

Spain is warm and sunny and we enjoy our time there with camping along the Costa del la Luz, Gibraltar and the Costa del Sol. We fall in love with Tarifa, with most southern city in Spain and, I am told, the most southern city in Europe. It is also the self proclaimed Wind Capital. All the money we save with this cheap flight we spend on eating well. Fresh tappas, wines, Sangria, Paella and excellent rich coffee. This region is also famous for its sherry wines, horses and Flamenco! It is a fine holiday, the weather is perfect every day, the waters of the Atlantic are clear and green-blue with wide white beaches. The Mediterranean is not as clear as it was in Capri but it is blue. The beaches of the Costa del Sol are a gray sand but are very wide and filled with plenty of lounge chairs and umbrellas for rent. Very touristy.

When our holiday is about to end we once again spend the night at the airport, as do a few other flyers. The Jerez airport is quite small but does have a duty free shop where I buy some sherry to take with me. Prices are 5 and 6€ each for a full liter bottle. I wish I could have taken more than the 2 bottles I purchased but I didn't want to lug more than what I had. The flight back was the same with check-in ques, security, then the que to board and the sale of items on board. My opinion of Ryanair as an LCC is good. It is a 'bus' but with the necessary safety one needs for air travel. It takes a bit more planning and flexibility but if you are willing to do the extra work and put up with the 'cattle call' of boarding you can fly cheap. On a longer or an international flight I think one needs the amenities you get with the majors. But maybe this is the future of domestic flights? No FF, no frills and no clubs. Maybe this is not for everyone.