I went there in January of 2002. I arrived in Yangon from LAX a long trip Via Hongkong and Bangkok. I was told what to expect so I wasn't too surprised. I was only to SEA once before and liked the rustic experience. I had a limited time so I decided to book a tour with A&K. I know it's so touristy and overpriced but, I was able to afford it and it was very well orginized. I was travelling on my own and had wonderful guides at every point. I was able to chose the guesthouses I wanted upon arrival to each place. They also steered me towards the cafes that had "clean kitchens". So what you're eating in a place with other western tourists. It sure beats stomach flu! I liked Inle Lake the most and Kalaw in the Shan State. It was a wonderful experience seeing the floating villages. The Market was a bit much but, I enjoyed the open spaces, the absence of air traffic and mobile phone antenas and the quiet of the evenings. Kalaw was chilly at night and ideal for light treking. YOu have to share the trails with the cows bringing wood and supplies into town and they always have the right of way! I didn't care much for Mandalay and found it quite uninteresting. Pagan was wonderful. The one nice resort there was great for the few days I spent there. I did get very sick but it was my fault for eating at a truck stop.
I'd go again but want to see other parts of SEA first.
Besos, Ramondo