III. A Pamir gathering
Sary Tash is described in less-than-favourable terms in most guides and travel reports; truth be told, the beauty of the region lies elsewhere. But, nonetheless, it’s a place I like, don’t ask me why. It’s a visceral sympathy: today this feeling is deepened by the views. I mean, look at that.
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Up until my visit, the homestays in this village ranged from the fleapit-ish to the outright unfit for human habitation. Not anymore, thanks to an enterprising young fella called Shamurat and his Pamirextreme homestay, which I’m happy to endorse and recommend to anyone. Pricy for local standards ($20/night for full board) but boasting a Western toilet, hot shower, wi-fi and clean beds. Can’t beat it.
It also comes with some great views and company, which can’t hurt. That day, as the sun sank lower, cows came home and kids oversaw everything I had a great evening in the company of two German overlanders, an Italian bike rider and two French retirees who’d come all the way from Grenoble on a Ural sidecar, see below:
Time to do a last stroll in the village as the sun sets and people come back in for the night.
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Above us, the Pyk Lenina shone in the beauty of its 7,000+ metres of altitude.
