Luckily our train was showing as on time, so all we had now was a long wait. The station felt surprisingly quiet but it turned out we were one of the few that turned up extra early for our train. We watched the boards as a few local services came and went, we observed the small military squads that patrolled the station, people carrying cups of coffee and sandwiches, all busy, all on their way somewhere. All those comings and goings, except us, we weren't going anywhere just yet. Unlike our luxurious departure of champagne flutes and a hot breakfast buffet served in the calm of an exclusive airport lounge our departure was one long stressful countdown till our train showed up. Finally our platform was announced with the traditional fanfare of the SNCF chime and we as well as about half the station made a dash for the escalators. Yes, I know we had seats and yes I also know we weren't going to miss the train but the rush was more about the desire to experience that overwhelming sense of relief that would only be found once we were aboard that train.
Train: TGV 9864
Depart: Valence TGV 16:15/Lyon Part Dieu 17:00
Arrive: Lille Europe 17:45
Seats: Coach 18, Seats 81 & 82 (Standard Class)
Locomotive: TGV Réseau Top Speed 320kmh
We arrived on the platform expecting to see the train having assumed this was where the service originated due to the cancellation of part of our journey. The adjacent track was deserted but for a few pigeons, obliviously pecking away. We checked the composition de trains, it returned a blank and helpless stare. This was looking less promising. We were now just a few minutes away from our scheduled departure time when an empty TGV pulled in and came to a halt. Yes, this one must be ours... The composition de trains remained silent, stoic in its non-compliance and refused to offer any confirmation that this was our train, let alone which carriage was ours. The doors to the TGV remained sealed, the information displays at each carriage door showed nothing, the platform staff were quiet. The crowd was becoming agitated as nobody knew where they were supposed to be going. As departure time grew ever closer the doors stayed shut and confusion increased when a second TGV joined the party and connected up to its mate. Information blackout continued and as Anne-So always says, in France you are expected to know, there are no instructions, no apologies it is what it is. I took an executive guess that our train would be the rear of the two and we headed that way. Better late (and by this time we were most definitely late) than never and we hoped we'd got our carriage right. That the carriages are normally numbered 1-9 or 10-18 and that we were in 18 and the other end of the train was comprised of the first class section, the guess wasn't that much of a leap of faith more of a fingers crossed moment.
We took our seats, the train pulled out and sometime later it was confirmed we were on the right train, in the right carriage and sat in the correct seats. Yes, victory was ours if not the photographic evidence to go with it. As a small child I wanted more than anything to ride the TGV, Bullet Train and Monorails of this world. Having ridden the former more times than I'd care to remember in both single deck and duplex, standard class and first class from Lille to Brussels, Paris to Lyon, Lyon to Barcelona and Turin the novelty of the TGV had fully worn off. Most of the TGVs today feel old and look old, like the ageing queen of the skies this queen of the rails has seen better days. As any one familiar with train travel in the UK knows, there's only so many times you can repaint, redecorate, renew and refresh before the time comes to replace. The original TGVs are as old as I am, perhaps that's why I was always fascinated by them. Its been nearly a decade since any new TGV models were produced and thankfully at least today's TGV Réseau was in passable shape. I can wait for the new Avelia Horizon train in 2023 and I know I'll find any excuse to ride one when the time comes. The rest of our journey was typically uneventful as we hurtled through the countryside towards Disneyland Paris, past Aeroport CDG before eventually arriving in to Lille about 20 minutes late.
Train: Eurostar 9163
Depart: Lille Europe 21:00
Arrive: London St Pancras International 21:33
Seats: Coach 13, Seats 31 & 32
Locomotive: Class 374 Eurostar e320 (Siemens Velaro) Top Speed 200mph
If you've ever had the pleasure of Lille Europe on a freezing winter's night you know you want to spend as little time there as possible. We lugged our bags off the TGV, up the icy escalator and trudged like world weary explorers to the back of the slow moving Eurostar check in line, hats on, gloves on scarfs tied tight, an Everest expedition would have moved faster than this, but I don't think you'll spy a Sherpa to guide you through Lille Europe. After what seemed a lifetime we were finally through the baggage scan and passport control allowing just enough time to pick up some snacks for dinner. Yes, they were as horrifically overpriced as you'd expect for a bottle of coke, chocolate bar and bag crisps purchased at the station. Honestly, after two days of food poisoning and some big restaurant lunches we weren't hungry for more.
Eventually boarding was called and we quickly made our way down to the platform and from the composition board saw we'd be walking the entire length of it to find our carriage! At least it got the circulation going. As you may have noticed there was time for one more lucky 13 moment this trip. Due to a change of train we had been moved from carriage 16 to 13, honestly you couldn't make it up if you tried. We stood and waited, trying not freeze to death in the 10 minutes it took for our train to pull in.
When it did finally turn up at least the suffering was worth it, at last I'd get to ride an e320.
I know, I know by the time I'd done this trip these trains had been in the wild for a good few years but it was my first time riding one and as I'd never been on any of the German ICE trains that these are based on either, I was slowly warming with excitement.
The first thing that I noticed is how much bigger these Siemens trains are than the original e300 TGV based Eurostar trains that I had become familiar with. From the steps, to the seats to the doors and the tray tables it was one giant leap for a train. They looked new and fresh with a modern minimal luxury, a proper train for the early part of the 21st Century as Tom Robbins certainly wouldn't say.
We settled in to our seats and broke open the snacks shortly after departing Lille and sped towards the Channel Tunnel. My mood had improved and the stress was speeding out of my body as fast as this German powerhouse of a train could carry me. The LCD screens throughout the carriages with their looping video ads, interspersed with the speed of the train and details of the next stop to come kept us partially entertained. The sugar, salt and coke fuelled us through the rest of the journey with some light reading and amusement at the extended family group occupying the seats in front of us taking up the rest of our time. It can't be easy doing long journeys with small children but despite us making fun of the stereotypes this group fell into they did a pretty good job wrangling their kids. Unsurprisingly they got off at Ebbsfleet and although we momentarily debated doing the same, the train we wanted to connect to was cancelled so it made more sense to travel the full distance into St Pancras.
We arrived promptly into London, though our tickets had a completely different arrival time on them which was a touch confusing. We then made the long walk down the platform, admiring the brightly lit blue girders that support the clear glass ceiling. In the distance that large clock and the shining light of Tracey Emin's neon message of hope. We had enjoyed a fine Christmas in 2019 even if we got sick, even if working was a pain, even though the strikes disrupted our plans. Somehow sat on the train home to Canterbury preparing to see out the year and the decade it had all worked out, not just this trip but the last 10 years. I really felt like I'd got my life back in gear, with new friendships, a new house and new jobs, it was the happiest I'd been in 20 years and it was going to take something truly epic to derail the year ahead. Friday 13th give it your best shot!
Up next is another Friday 13th when you realise that dodging a strike is really not that big a deal!