Day 1.

Outside Terminal 2 at Dubai International Airport ready to begin my weekend trip to Saudi Arabia.


I had visited Saudi Arabia briefly and 'ticked the box' back in 2014 when I got a transit visa and drove from Dubai to Doha via the Saudi city of Hofuf.

After the brief and fleeting visit I had wanted to head back and to especially visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of Mada'in Saleh.

Recently with the reforms under Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman the country had greatly liberalised the entry of tourists. D
For 463 SAR ($123) a multi-entry visa valid for one year could be obtained in only a few minutes after filling out a short application online.

As part of the reforms Mada'in Saleh was also being developed. While the site was officially closed for this until the end of 2020, it was still possible to visit during the Winter at Tantora Festival.

It would have been feasible to try and organise the trip myself, hiring a car etc. but the $950 price including flights for an organised trip with the local Trekkup meetup group was roughly the same price and with the benefit of not having to worry about all the planning and logistics etc.

At the groundside Costa Café for the pre-trip meeting with our tour leader Xini. There was nine of us total on the trip.


Airside in the Marhaba lounge. Our flight departure was pushed back an hour so there was plenty of time to enjoy some lunch.


Although there was a domestic airport at Al-ʿUla, there were only flights to/from the cities of Jeddah and Riyadh. We hence instead were flying into the city of Ha'il and then driving ~4 hours west to Al-ʿUla.


Our Flydubai flight FZ885 with the new departure time of 2:50pm confirmed.


Boarding just after 2:30pm.


Looking out at busy Sheikh Zayed Road and Sharjah beyond as we depart at 3:15pm.


Soon after departure the pilot announced incoming turbulence so we were treated to 30 minutes of moderate shaking and bumping.


A can of lemon ice tea purchased from the drinks cart after things had settled down.


Looking out the window to the green round spots in the desert from irrigated crop circles.


Disembarking at dusk at Ha'il Regional Airport. The elevation in Ha'il was 1,015 m so the temperature was a few degrees cooler than Dubai. While there was a pair of BMW 7-series waiting for some Saudi VIPs, we had a green airport bus for the ~200 meter ride to the terminal.


Most of the arrivals were workers coming from the sub-continent. We were unfortunately near the back of the queue but an airport official soon came to us and ushered us swiftly to the front. After only a few minutes we were then stamped into the country.


After having our bags X-rayed for alcohol and any other illicit substances we met up with our drivers Mohammed and Faisal.


We then loaded into the two white Toyota Landcruisers waiting outside.


Our drive this evening was 435 kilometers west to Al-ʿUla governate.


Making our way out of the city. On the way we passed an array of trailers and caravans that were setup for the Dakar Rally that was currently underway in Saudi Arabia.


Stopping for fuel.


Grabbing some water and snacks for the road.


Cruising west on Highway 75. We averaged ~140 kph and made good time on the long straight road.


And arriving at Madakhil Camp just after 10pm.


Checking in and waiting for our room keys. I was expecting much simpler and conventional accommodation so was pleasantly surprised.


Even though it was now 10:30pm the kitchen staff were ready with dinner for us.


And a tasty meal after the long drive.


My room / tent / cabin for the next two nights.


Quite comfortable and relatively new.


I then turned on the heat pump and crawled into bed before an early start tomorrow.


Day 2.

After getting up at 6am we met up for an early morning hike up to the plateau just behind the camp.

Hiking up in the dim light of dawn. The temperature was ~4°C but we soon warmed up with all the exhertion.


Our guide pausing while we staggered to keep up with him!


The camp below with the sun about to crest the horizon.


There were quite a few loose rocks the further up we got which made it quite tricky in the low light.


The sun bursting now over the horizon as we made it to the top just in time for daybreak.


Up above the plateau.


And a panorama showing the expanse of black basalt rocks sprinkled on top.


The rows of tents / cabins in Madakhil Camp below.


Surrounded on all three sides by the steep rocky walls it was an almost perfect place for our stay in Al-ʿUla.


Looking back with the path of our morning walk up the rocky valley visible center.


More rocky red landscape further behind us.


Another panorama showing the surreal vista all around us.


In the ethereal light of dawn the strange and otherworldly landscape almost made it feel like we were on another planet.


And a group photo after propping up my camera on top of a rock.


We then began the hike back down.


Pausing for a quick selfie on the descent.


And back at camp after the early morning mountain top excursion.


After a quick shower we headed to the dining tent for some breakfast.


I couldn't resist a piece of sweet halva with my hummous, eggs, olives and bread.


Also in the dining tent were a photographer and a journalist working on the media team for Extreme E, an upcoming racing series featuring electric off roaders.


The prototype Extreme E racer outside in the camp carpark being charged up.


The battery gauge inside the cockpit showing 85.8% charge. I had owned an electric remote control 4WD offroad racer as a kid so it was quite interesting seeing essientially an upscaled version of it.


Two days later Ken Block, the American professional rally driver, raced the vehicle on the final stage of the Dakar Rally to promote and showcase the upcoming Extreme E racing series.


We were then met by our local guide for the next two days, Hatim. He had studied at university in Michigan but now lived back in Al-ʿUla.

We then loaded into the Landcruisers for a day of exploration.


Making our way through a nearby wadi.


Wadi is Arabic for a valley or dry riverbed.


The Landcruisers making short work of the soft sand.


Stopping to take in the steep canyon cliffs surrounding us.


Faisal and Mohammed.


We then ventured further into the wadi for a bit of hike.


Hatim leading the way as the wadi continues to narrow.


Being dwarfed as the wadi walls start to close in.


Hatim wrapped up in his black jacket and red & white keffiyeh.


Stopping in the narrowing wadi as we reached as far as we could go.


We then turned around and made the trek back. I tried to launch my drone to get an aerial perspective but with the cloudy skies and steep walls I unfortunately couldn't get a GPS lock.


Mohammed and Faisal patienty waiting for our return.


We then piled back into the Landcruisers for the drive out.


As we were driving along we spotted an approaching swirl of dust in the distance. As it got closer we realised it was the Extreme E racer out for a test run! I was expecting it to be relatively silent like a Tesla but it made a high pitched whine just like my toy electric offroader I had as a kid.


Stopping for some tasty locally grown tangerines.


Ominous dark clouds above as we drive towards Al-ʿUla.


The Dunkin Donuts kiosk at Winter Park, the main base for the Winter at Tantora Festival. There was now a small but steady stream of falling rain.


And at the sales desk where we went to pick up our tickets for our planned afternoon visit to Mada'in Saleh.


We had to wait a short while for the next departing bus so I went grab a donut and some coffee.


During our wait the rain steadily increased to the point where it was unfortunately announced that Mada'in Saleh was closed for the rest of the day.

After exchanging our tickets for entry tomorrow we headed into town to grab some lunch.


There was only nine of us but they must have brought out enough for a small army!


We barely made a dent in the mountain of food but we made a decent attempt!


After emerging from the restaurant the skies were blue and the rain now gone. We had a bit of time with our postponed visit to Mada'in Saleh so went to check out the 52 meter tall Elephant Rock.


Elephant Rock is surrounded by hundreds of other rock monoliths that have been formed over thousands of years through natural erosion.


Scattered amongst the rock monoliths were small local farms.


The landscape was as surreal as we had seen on our hikes this morning and just as otherworldly.


Looking down on a lane beside an irrigated orchard.


The water for the farms is pumped up deep underground wells.


Our driver, Mohammed, then took us to his own farm.


His farm below with crops of sugarcane, tangerines and dates.


The farmhouse middle-left surrounded by the red towering rock.


A freshly irrigated field of grass for animal feed.


Faisal relaxing on a rug.


Mohammed showing us the chicken coop.


Free range and plenty of room to roam.


I had always thought of Saudi Arabia as endless sandy deserts so it was quite surreal to be walking through a green, lush field surrounded by massive red monolithic rocks.


The goats munching on their dinner.


Mohammed posing for a portrait with his farm as the backdrop.


Walking back down the hill.


Some Arabic coffee and dates, It was unfortunate to miss out on visiting Mada'in Saleh today but exploring the surrounds and a local farm was not a bad alternative.


In the Landcruisers again.


And back at the camp with the moon now lighting up the sky.


After the long, eventful day we went for dinner at the dining tent.


And indulging in some baklava for a tasty end to day 2.