Sorry, I hadn't noticed your $800 a night target. Unless you opt for presidential suites, your budget is virtually unbreakable for most of Malaysia. Penang's E&O is a century old wedding-cake grande dame, about as far from being boutique as you can imagine. It's recently re-fluffed and refurbished, but even so the really lovely Writer's Suites are probably still around $500: and you can get comfort there for far less.

If you prefert to be close in to the foodie action and historical centre, then you might want to go boutique.

On Langkawi the Datai might bust your budget if you aim for its top rooms/villas, but it's a charmer. St Regis and Ritz Carlton are not far behind, if you want the security of well-known brands. But these are resorts, and could be anywhere tropical.

For Kuching the Hilton is the best option. It's seen better days and is ripe for a refurb, but its location makes it the clear winner, right on the river front (OK, there's a road to cross). Splurge $200 or so for a club river-view room/suite on the Penthouse or 12th floor. Kuching is sprawling city, but its tourism heart is surprisingly intimate, stretching along the river-front with a back-up of narrow streets, markets and shop-houses - and the inevitable mega-mall tucked away between the river and city's Merdeka square. A couple of nights would give you the flavour of the place - but it's fair to say it's not going to be be the dreamy relaxed away from it all experience of one of Langkawi.s resorts.