Of course the food in Varkala is authentic in a sense, but as you must have gathered if you're there right now, it is geared to Western tourists.

And yes, the walk along the cliff is wonderful. Be sure to continue north down the steps to the seaside walk: equally wonderful, if not more so.

Kovalam, truth to tell, will be something of a disappointment after Varkala. But hopping into Trivandrum for a meal from Kovalam is pretty easy.

As to the backwater trip, I took the cheap public ferry ride from Kollam and enjoyed it.