Great report so far! I just got back from Kazakhstan/Tajikistan/Uzbekistan, and did two of the same flights (TSE-ALA-DYU) as you, although in the back of the bus. Interesting to see their J proposition. I met up with a few people that did the Pamir highway - it's on my list now!

Also, that red firetruck in Dushanbe was parked in the same position since at least early Sept haha.