FESTIVALS
Every town has its unique celebrations on its Saint’s Day. Though many towns carry original Zapotec, Mixe, Mazatec, Nahuatl, etc. the Spanish conquerors generally imposed a Saint on each town. Ergo, Cuilapam was dedicated to Santiago Apóstol (St. John the Apostle), whose day is January 25 - with a grand fair, dancing, rodeo, etc. It would be exhaustive to list them all, but check the pages of
http://www.oaxacaevents.com
Link to listings of festivals around Oaxaca.
Día de Los Reyes (Epiphany, day of the three kings) January 6 - is the traditional day children received Christmas gifts and is the end of the Christmas season. Family and friends share a “rosca” circular cake in which plastic figurine of the baby Jesus has been hidden. S/he who find a "muñeco" in their piece of rosca must host the ensuing party on February 2. This is more of a family tradition, but you’ll see roscas in the bakeries.
February 2 - Santa María del Tule, home of the Tule tree.
La Candelaria or Purification of the Virgin and the Blessing of the Infant Jesus this feast is celebrated with a calenda parade, mayordomía and guelaguetza thanksgiving dance celebration.
February 5 -
Día de la Constitución / Constitution day, national holiday, special patriotic observances.
February 24 -
Día de la Bándera / Flag Day, many offices closed, special patriotic observances concerning the national banner.
Lenten celebrations and observances vary from town to town.
March 21 -
Anniversary of the birth of President Benito Juárez, national holiday with many official and other patriotic observances honoring the Benemérito of the Americas, and a huge deal in his natal state of Oaxaca.
Easter Sunday follows Semana Santa / Holy Week, which is for all practical purposes a holiday week everyone takes off work. Most businesses are closed, those remaining open are skeletonized and basically nonfunctional. Tourist venues are horribly crowded, lodging scarce, prices sky high, transportation jam packed.
April 25 - Anniversary of the decree by Carlos V in 1532 raising the Villa de Antequera to the category of royal city with the name of Antequera de Oaxaca . Thare many public festivities and musical programs presented by Philharmonic Orchestras to celebrate this event.
May 1 -
Día del Trabajo / Labor Day. Expect businesses and government functions to be closed and worker oriented parades. Lots of parades.
May 3 -
Feast of the Santa Cruz and
Día del Albañil (Construction Worker), and of the architect and Engineer. Celebrated in any village or colonia named Santa Cruz in various manners, and on all construction sites, as well as with parades music and cultural activities by the students in architecture and engineering. You’ll see floral crosses on construction sites.
May 5 -
Cinco de Mayo isn’t much celebrated in Mexico; its more of a Mexican expat celebration of the defeat of Napoleon,s troops in the Battle of Puebla.
May 10 -
Día de la Madre / Mother's Day celebrated nationally with commercial promotions and special attentions to all mothers.
Guelaguetza in July sees native and traditional people from throughout the state come together for a week of joyous cultural celebration highlighted by dancers in traditional dress performing their traditional dances and ceremonies. This is the equivalent of any Pushkar camel fair or Holi or powwow, with people representing different ethnic groups and villages throughout the state come and present local autochthonous dances.
The Guelaguetza is the "modernized" version of the prehispanic custom of making an offering (guelaguetza in Zapotec) to the gods and especially to the goddess of corn to ensure sufficient rainfall and a good harvest. July 16 in the present calendar is equivalent to the ancient calendar date of the feast of the goddess of tender corn (
Centeotl). As the Spanish priests were not able to abolish this deeply rooted custom, they "catholicized" it by tying it to the feast of the Virgin of Carmen. On this date there are parades with the regional delegations to the Guelaguetza, the "giants" , musicians, etc. and the official Guelaguetza takes place on the two following Mondays. On the Sunday preceding the first Monday there is a contest to choose from the candidates of each delegation the "Goddess Centeotl" who will preside at all the festivities. She is chosen, not for her beauty although she may be very lovely, but for her knowledge of the customs and traditions of her village and region. That same evening in the Plaza de la Danza is the
Bani Stui Gulal, a representation of dances from several periods in the history of the Guelaguetza.
On the two Mondays (in 1999 July 19 and July 26) festivities begin with mañanitas at 5:00 AM followed by local bands until the Guelaguetza proper begins at 10:00 with the presentation of the Diosa (goddess) Centeotl and all the delegations, followed by the dances, music, tradition and the gift of regional products to the audience. All the seven regions of the state are represented with their traditional dress and customs in the open air amphitheater on the Cerro del Fortín overlooking the beautiful colonial city below. It is a magnificent spectacle on a perfect day (it is forbidden to rain that morning) and should not be missed. It finishes around 1:00 PM and everyone goes to the zocalo to watch the many presentations of one or another delegation around town.
On the two Monday nights, in the same Guelaguetza Auditorium, entrance is free to the presentation of the Legend of Donaji. Daughter of Cosijoeza, last ruler of the Zapotecs in the Valley, Donaji's life and tragic death are dramatically presented with fireworks and spectacular effects.
The guelaguetza period ends the last three days of July with mañanitas, calendas, religious activities, music and fireworks at the church of Carmen Bajo.
http://www.oaxacalive.com/calendar.htm
September 15 -
Grito de Independencia / Shout of Independence of México - La Noche Mexicana is celebrated nationwide with parties, dancing, fireworks. At 11:00 PM the ceremony of the Grito commemorates the call for independence from Spain given on September 15, 1810 by Miguel Hidalgo. In Oaxaca and in every city and village the zocalo or main square is filled with people who will shout the ¡Viva Mexico! and enjoy the fireworks, dances and other festivities.
September 16 -
Día de Independencia - Mexican Independence Day - National holiday celebrating Mexico's Independence from Spain. Parades and cultural, political activities. Everything governmental is closed.
31 Oct - 2 November
Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) is celebrated over a three day period October 31, November 1, and November 2. THIS IS NOT HALLOWEEN. The dead ancestors and family are believed to return in spirit during these days to visit their live family members. Día de los Muertos is celebrated with some differences, throughout the region. The rituals are colorful and interesting. However, a sincere caveat. These are celebrations and times of spiritual communing with one’s ancestors, and obstreperous visitors sticking cameras into people’s faces and business without invitation isn’t any more welcome than if someone stalked you during your moments of privacy. Be discrete, be quiet, be respectful.
December 12 -
Feast of the Virgin of Guadalupe, patron saint of all Mexico, is celebrated nationally. Here on the day before the small children are dressed to represent Juan Diego to whom the Virgin miraculously appeared in the 16th century and a simple "indian" woman of the time, and taken to the Guadalupe church to be blessed. All of the area around the Llano Park in front of the church is filled with carnival rides and special attractions for the children.
There are many other activities, including
mañanitas, rosary at dawn, convite, religious activities,
calenda, carnival, food, music and fireworks. Many of the unions of bus and taxi drivers participate in the special religious activities.
December 16 - 24 - The traditional
Posadas commemorate the search by Mary and Joseph for shelter in Bethlehem. On each of the nine nights preceding Christmas the holy couple and other “pilgrims” walk and sing requesting shelter and are refused at various houses before being admitted by the chosen host for that night. The request, refusal and admittance are all sung in verse and a great party is held at the chosen house with special foods, collations, fruit, candy, piñatas and music. There are public and private Possdas, and if you’re invited enjoy the pageantry and refreshments afterwards, like champurrado (a corn and chocolate drink) and other comfort foods. Children get to break a piñata on these evenings as well.
December 18 -
La Virgen de la Soledad is the patron of Oaxaca and the entire city and state honor her on this day with
mañanitas (a traditional song sung for people’s birthdays and certain celebrations), rosary at dawn,
convite,
calenda, religious activities, carnival, regional dances, food fair, street fair, music, fireworks. The day begins at 4:00 AM music and fireworks; at 6:00 AM is the Promenade to the markets 20 de Noviembre, Benito Juárez and IV Centenario and to the
zócalo. Activities continue throughout the day, including visits to the padrino's house and a return to the church at 1:00 or 2:00 AM
December 23 -
Noche de Rábanos (night of radishes), a uniquely Oaxacan celebration which has its roots in the special market held the day before Christmas Eve when growers began to exhibit radishes which had grown to enormous lengths and with fantastic shapes. In time, they started to carve and fashion more sophisticated figures and to make tableaus representative of the season, especially nacimientos or nativity scenes. Apparently 1897 was the first year that the Municipality of Oaxaca organized the event as a contest and offered a prize to the best
nacimiento (nativity crèche) made of radishes. Over the years the event has grown and two additional categories are now included -
totomoxtle (corn husks) and
flor inmortal (everlasting flowers). Also, other types of scenes representative of Oaxaca are permitted in addition to nacimientos.
December 24 - La
Noche Buena or Christmas Eve All the churches offer special calendas with floats, lights and music which pass through the city, the zócalo and back to the churches. The last of the Posadas is held and all the anticipation and celebration culminates in the Misa de Gallo (Midnight Mass ) at midnight. From then on, most celebrations are family oriented and take place in the home.
December 25 is
Navidád - Christmas and you’ll see decorations everywhere. But people will be behind doors with their families, shops etc. will be closed. This is a school holiday that ends in early January and many take time off through New Year’s. Prices for lodging are high due to the popularity of the season.
Links
Link to
Oaxaca Events of all kinds, including classes. Highly recommended!
Link to Oaxaca Live! calendar, which supplied some of the information herein but includes localized events.
Illustrations
Guelaguetza at the Guelaguetza Plaza
Guelaguetza
Noche de Rábanos