Madone59

jux·ta·po·si·tion
/ˌjəkstəpəˈziSH(ə)n/
noun
The fact of two things being seen or placed close together with contrasting effect.

Getting on the plane to South Africa was as hard as writing the next chapter in this trip report. I truly appreciate the kind replies to Chapter 7 and the report as a whole, its taken emotional energy to write. Not to dissimilar to the state of mind I was in while boarding. The juxtaposition of spending my miles to coordinate my fathers return to Asia, and taking two extra days to fly pointlessly away from my family just because I could still lands hard if I'm honest. Obviously (or not) the length of the trip had been blessed by Mrs. Madone59 and the Mrs.Madone59-in-law was helping her with our son, but still there was zero "need" to fly to Johannesburg. Certainly not like the need I felt to be in Hong Kong with my father. So why did I do it? Two reasons: 1. I love literally flying "around the world" 2. I had to put my miles where my mouth is. You see for years I have been tinkering with United Awards - poking at the schedule to see what I can make it do. When they system was changed to discourage multi-city bookings I had already learned you would get from South East Asia to North America via South Africa, and Europe on the same trip. Actually if the moon's are all aligned you can go South East Asia to North America via South America for the same price as good old Hong Kong to Chicago. I had been pitching these routes to my friends for years, and no one took the bait so when the opportunity (and seats) became available I felt it was time to put up or shut up; seriously. Everyone here is seeking something different from their travel experience. I...I want to be in the air. If you can fly 14,000 miles instead of 8,000 you (in my mind) got more for your 90,000 UA miles. That is how I'm wired. So the trip with my dad was planned and HKG-JNB-JFK opened up. Perfect! JNB-JFK is the longest flight in the world on at A340-600 - my favorite aircraft, this was meant to be. Now if you're reading that and scratching your head because my map on page one definitely doesn't show JNB-JFK don't rush. We'll get there. This is a story of a great day, an epic delay and a legendary reroute.



I made my way to the gate just as premium boarding began, and merged right into the moving line of business class passengers. As the gate agent scanned by boarding pass the switch flipped and I was excited. Adrenaline started moving and I got serious about what I was about to do. Just like my 2017 RTW bonanza sleep on this flight was paramount - this was my flying hotel and I needed to skip dinner to get sleeping. The excitement took a real shot in the gut as a turned left into the business class cabin and saw the old non-line-flat seats.

"*exhale* This is going to hurt." -Photos taken upon landing, which is why there is day light






Seat controls


Barley enough storage for a pair of shoes under the seat in front of me


Business class on tonight's flight was just about one third full, so my neighbor quickly bid me farewell and headed to his own row, though I wish he stayed for a few extra minutes because all of the flight attendance and some passengers seemed to know him...I wanted to ask who he was . A made a quick trip to the lav to put on my JAL PJ's from earlier in the trip and as I started to get settled in the pilots made one of the strangest announcements I have ever heard. The pilot warned passengers of theft. Seriously! If you've heard announcements like this before please chime in, because my jaw was on the floor. He went on and on about protecting your luggage and valuables from in-flight theft which is "common on this route." As he wrapped up the warning he added that this crime was "not unique to South African Airways", but to this route..........which is only operated by two carriers of which SAA is one . A dull rigging came to my ears as I became awash in travel anxiety. After my years of travel anxiety is NOT a regular feeling so I knew what it was as soon as it hit. My mind was racing.

"Am I going to get my cell phone, wallet and or passport stolen, and be stuck in Johannesburg"

I was a momentary mess as my mind bounced from were South Africans being robbed past were Asians right to were tourists being targeted! As a reflect back on this announcement it gets ever stranger because I never heard it again. Not when failing to fly to JFK, or getting re routed through Nigeria. This was the only time passengers were warned of on-board theft.

As soon as we climbed out of Hong Kong and the seat belt sign was off I got up and grabbed my backpack. I had it stuffed to the gills for what was supposed to be one 10 hours on the ground in South Africa, a flight home and a connection in JFK so if I lost anything in there it was going to have a big impact on my trip. I reclined my seat into bed mode then opened up the little shoes compartment in the seat in front of me - which was not obstructed by the foot of my bed - and shoved my phone and passport into my shoes before closing the compartment. My second phone and wallet stayed in my back pack which I crammed between the side of the seat and the wall. I also partially reclined the empty seat next to me so that the bottom of the bed protruded into the empty space by my legs.
Was this overkill? Probably. Was it underkill.....we'll never know, but if someone was going to rob me, they were going to have to wake me up to do it! Some light chop over the Indian Ocean was gently rocking us, and after getting a second pillow from the cabin crew (my former neighbor took his with him) I had seven restful hours of sleep.

I woke up to find all my belongings where I left them and just in time to see the sun rise over Madagascar


Breakfast


Landing in JNB








ET 738 Max. Interestingly enough the next day I saw another ET 738 Max and thought "No need to shoot it, you already got one." It was ET-AVJ


International arrival tails




My flight got in about thirty minutes early, which gave me extra time before my 9:00am pick up, so I made my way to the lounge for a shower and some fresh clothes.

Looking down on the terminal from the upper level.


The lounge, while beautiful and well appointed was a challenge to photograph the front of because of the big glass wall.


There was no wait for a shower room which were all very large and clean. I would have enjoyed a bit of a larger towel, but the shower experience as a whole was wonderfully average and beat expectations. I grabbed some breakfast and headed out to meet my driver. Walking out of the terminal I took a look at the departure board and thought "Huh, I only know four of those places." I love that feeling.


Prior to leaving on this trip, literally in the Lufthansa lounge in JFK, I booked a local driver/ guide through Tours By Locals. I had asked around some friends as well as here on FT and couldn't get a lead on a guide, but my roll-of-the-dice with booking through TBL really paid off! My guide Mmesi, was absolutely awesome! He pitched a no-hitter, had a hat-trick, and a triple-double all in the same game Seriously, I can't personally recommend him enough or exaggerate how much he added to my day in Johannesburg. A lot of friends, some of whom are from South Africa told me not to do this stop. They said Johannesburg was to dangerous to be flippant about, and the safe or touristy parts were too far from the airport to access easily or efficiently. Excluding my reroute home, I'd do this again thanks to Mmesi.

Heading out of the terminal I texted Mmesi "Purple Hat." I wasn't more than five steps into the greeting area when a smiling face met me, hand out stretched "Daniel!" WE headed to Mmesi's car, and off into the city. Here is a map of our day. We headed out of the airport and right into the city then Constution Hill before heading out to Soweto then back on the highway through Johannesburg South and New RedRuth. Map courtesy of Google, awesome data plane courtesy of T-Mobile!


South African Flag on cement


On the road...


Our first stop was at the Drive Lines building in Jeppestown. It took 140 shipping containers to make this building which is part studio and part apartments.




A walk around to look at some street art














Mandela, on the edge of Hillbrow


All of my South African friends said don't go to Johannesburg with no plan, and definitely don't go to just bop around the city like you're used to, and definitely definitely do not go to Hillbrow!

Mmesi looked over at me. "Put your camera down." We turned left into Hillbrow in the shadow of the famous Ponte City building. Famously hollow and featured in the movie Chappie as a den of thieves it used to be full (literally) of garbage because people would just throw trash into the center.


Mmesi said pictures were OK, but to keep my camera low and hide it if we stop at light, and if we stop at alight don't make eye contact. I asked if it was dangerous because he was black of if I was white and he said no "They rob everyone. Blacks rob blacks, whites rob whites, and they don't just want your money - they want to hurt you."










Architecture




My photos do not do Hillbrow justice, and we din't stray off the main street - which is to say there are worse parts of the worst part of town - but the tension was palpable. You could see people eyeing our car. You could see conflict simmering. If the juxtaposition of being with my father just yesterday at the JW Marriott wasn't jarring enough, just one block outside of Hillbrow is constitution square where the South African constitution court is located. As we parked and got out of the car you could still hear the hustle and bustle of the busy city streets, the tall constitution court literally looming over the crime ridden blocks beneath it.




The magnificent front doors of the constitution court are Carved with all 27 rights in the South African constitution.






Inside the court. Bathed in sunlight the court is designed to be figuratively and literally open to the people of South Africa. Notice the line of windows behind the last row of chairs.




Bricks from apartheid prisons re-purposed to keep the court's eye on South Africa's history


"The tree protects the people, and they look after the tree"




Art




Flame of democracy


Back in the car we headed towards an older section of town to see a traditional medicine store




Crossing the Mandela bridge by car...


By foot


Square of squares


Downtown


A relic hangs above the medicine store



The medicine shop was fascinating, and i regret not buying something when had the chance. The air was thick, full of plant and animal smells from the wall to wall herbs and bones. Locals were buying and bartering and chatting like we weren't even there.

Various dried animal parts


Dried roots and herbs


Sticks, canes, and spears


Pottery




Noise makers


Back in the car, and passing city hall




At 234 meters this is the former tallest building in South Africa, and on the continent as a whole. It just got passed by The Leonardo which is 234 meters.


Going up!


The View












Bus station


Back on the road, we briefly followed a delivery truck


About twenty minutes later we were in Soweto - South Africa's biggest township


Tree


Neighborhood



The cooling towers from the now decommissioned power plant. Apparently you can swing off them, and that is something tourists do......pass.



We headed north on Kingsley Sithole street....seriously...as the houses turned from neighborhoods and brick buildings to tin shacks. Mmesi Pulled over.

"Would you like to see the shacks?" He asked.

I looked out of the car window and saw a few men gathering by the corner looking at the car. One was saying goodbye to another touristy looking person who was getting into a car. I looked back at Mmesi for approval.

"It's ok, get out. Take your camera. These guides open their communities up so people can see what life is really like. It's OK. Go"

I timidly opened the door and got out of the car. All of the sudden it had gotten hotter out. We weren't shaded by the tall buildings of the city, and even though were surrounded by homes and people this felt like a lonely place. If I'm honest, and with no disrespect meant towards the community that was welcoming me; I felt like I was stepping foot into Mars. I wasn't just out of my element, I was miles away from it. I had walked three feet away from the car and had never been further from home as I was at that moment.

I don't want to get too deep down this rabbit hole without first recognizing yes I know this is a sanitized version of poverty, for tourists to see and it's structured (probably at the expense or even against the wishes of the residence) to solicited donations. I know this! But. I also know, if it wasn't for this sanitized (and safe) set-up I, nor many others, would never get this close or have the opportunity to get their minds around how so many people live. Were the residents being exploited? I hope not. Were donations tricking down to them.....I hope so.

"Hello" My guide bounded towards me, hand stretched out. He introduced himself and explained that local guides, like him, work with communities to open their doors to outsiders so that we could understand what life was like here. He guided me through the shacks, encouraging me to take photos and ask questions. We talked about water, food, education, mosquitoes and electricity.




"Don't mind the power lines *grabbing a raw wire* they are only dangerous at night when the street light are on. People here steal power from the city [lights], that's the only way they can get it."


More power lines


Narrow






Gravel crunching under our feet, kicking up a cloud of dust behind us we walked back up towards the road where you could hear kids laughing.

"Would you like to see out school?"

P.T Barhum said there is a sucker born every minute, call me a sucker. Fine by me! My heart grew 11 sizes as soon as I walked in the door. Yes, I know I know the tour is supposed to end here. I get it, it's kinds probably a money making operation, and again I just hope no one is being exploited. I was honored to make a donation to the school in the name of Mrs. Madone59's grandfather who was a pioneer in special education and never met a child he didn't love.


I walked out of the school with my guide and headed towards the car. We shook hands and he thanked me for my donation.

"We appreciate your support." he said

"I had to. We all say goodnight to the same moon."

Seriously I said that. Only now after writing this Trip Report and tell you all the full moon does the full-circle gravity hit me like a ton of irony but there I was standing in shacks of Soweto talking like my father. I got back in the car and we headed towards Mandela's house and the apartheid museum.

Market


Advertising. Yikes


Mandela's house











The apartheid museum does not permit photography, and I highly recommend a visit. The walls are lines with powerful stories and moving images from this dark period, which South Africa continues to struggle with and heal from.