Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sydney, Australia and Stockholm, Sweden
Programs: VA Platinum, SQ Gold, TK Gold, Hhonors Gold, Accor Plus Platinum, Bonvoy Gold, Radisson Premium
Posts: 1,022
I spent a week in Hoi An in April. Yes the centre (with walking streets) is very touristy but you don't have to venture far from those streets to avoid "Massage, sir, madam". Also the centre is totally different during the day and at night. It is a must to see at night - at least once.
A few streets from the walking streets are some pleasant riverside cafes with reasonable prices (eg. River View Restaurant).
I'll put in a plug for the boutique hotel we stayed at - Hoi An Estuary Villa. It's in a quiet suburban street facing the river. Good breakfasts, refreshing pool, easy walk to the beach - and even if you aren't a beach person they really are quiet nice and there are good family restaurants nearby (eg. Co Hong), and they have a shuttle bus every night into Hoi An centre. We found it a good balance and would easily spend 4 or 5 days there again.