I have stayed at both, and I think it is a toss up. The Belmond has more of a "sense of place" with the general architecture and the pool area is very nice. The PH is beautifully designed but I also think that it feels more like it could be "in any other city" hotel in many ways.

I had great service at both and both are in great locations with PH being on a busier road, while the Belmond is in a slightly quieter part of town across the river.

Can't comment on food other than both have good breakfast as I have always taken advantage of the ever growing list of great restaurants now in town.

In my opinion you can't go wrong with either.