Crafts Villages – drive on the road north from Ubud starting at Andong, through Petulu, then further north. Hundreds of shops offering metal crafts, incense, wood carvings, every kind of handmade craft imagineable. Best prices are in the villages of origin for the crafts. Prices are a fraction of the shops in Ubud. Stores that wholesale to international shops have fixed prices; otherwise, bargain. Takes a full day plus for shopping.

• ND Collection – Pujung Kelod, Tegallalang – 2 young woman designing beautiful pillows; will take orders to deliver in 1 day. Fixed prices.
• Dewi Café, Ceking Rice Terraces, Tegallalang crafts village area – big plates of delicious nasi or bakmi goring for about $4. Fresh lime juice is $1. View is magical, overlooking rice paddies in a gorge.

Beaded purses, jewelry – many shops in Penestenan, adjacent to Ubud village, with better selection and prices than anywhere else. Fascinating workmanship. Variety varies markedly shop by shop, according to taste of owner and what he or she choses to make

Village of Sidemen – ikat is made here. There are only a couple of shops, and the dyes are traditional, thus earthen colors. This stop is for those who understand and value fabric; I was underwhelmed.

Village of Tenganan - sacred "Geringsing" double ikat is made here. It takes five years to make a single piece of fabric. Village is fascinating to visit; built around central meeting area with no road. Again, I found the fabric itself not to my taste – heresy I am sure – but the village is well worth the visit.

• Candasi – Lotus Restaurant – beautiful open ocean front restaurant about 10 minutes from Tenganan.