I don't entirely agree.

We do a lot of tasting menus and for us the good ones have the 'snacks' at the beginning coming reasonably quickly and the spacing between dishes increases as you get deeper into the progression and especially between the main proteins. More so if they are pairing wines across two courses or less lest you end up with a table littered with half finished pours.

Of course, it has something to do with the chef, but I suspect there's a cultural element as well. Just like portion sizes vary by locale, so can the speed of consumption. Some people just like to eat quickly while we like to savour our food, have a pleasant conversation and otherwise enjoy the craft of the chef. The 'best' restaurants get this and adjust the service pacing to match their patrons seamlessly. Other places need a gentle reminder.

Case in point - we pushed back a little at the service pacing on our first visit to Le Calandre. About three minutes later Chef Alajmo came to our table, asked if everything was fine and said he had no problem adjusting the pace of the service. In fact he seemed pleased as he lamented that some diners seem to just want to rush through their meals. He joined us after dessert and we chatted about other restaurants we had visited on that trip.

But in the end, it's up to personal taste and we each have our own standards of how quickly we like to eat and the 'right' way to run a service. And a great restaurant can keep us all happy.