corporate-wage-slave

Just some general notes about visiting Durban, however my previous visits to Durban were in 1988 - my first ever visit to South Africa - and February 1990. I was in Durban when Nelson Mandela (Madiba) was released from prison. So though I've made more recent visits to the Cape, this was my first visit to KwaZulu-Natal in nearly 30 years and quite a lot has changed since the days of Apartheid. Nevertheless I can hardly set myself up as an expert on Durban, so I hope those more familiar with the area can give their suggestions in the posts below. I stayed at the Hilton Durban, which has been recently refitted and provides luxurious accommodation in the centre of Durban, but as will perhaps be apparent isn't necessarily a good option for tourists.

Durban was founded as a protected Indian Ocean port in 1824, when it was named Port Natal by its British setters, who had negotiated a land and trading deal with the warrior King Shaka of the Zulus. The town was renamed Durban in 1835, being named after then governor of the Eastern Cape. Its natural harbour, sugar cane planations and location facing India led to rapid growth, and it is now the third city of South Africa with a population of 3.5 million.

I think it is fair to say that the city itself has some attractions for tourists, notably the tropical climate, clean beaches, surfing opportunities and many good places to stay and eat. However I suspect that for tourists the main attraction will be as a gateway to the extraordinary countryside and beaches around the city, up to the Drakensberg mountains and the Great Escarpment. The fly-drive possibilities are endless, including wildlife tours to the Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, which is more affordable that the Kruger and in some ways easier to tour.

Durban - things to see
- Botanical Gardens
Open daily, this gives an interesting insight to South Africa's flora and fauna. The orchid house is particularly educational. It was opened in 1848 and is very well maintained. There are tea rooms there, or you can bring a picnic. That is if the ducks don't get to your food first.
- Esplanade / Harbour area
This would include the area around the Royal Natal Yacht Club - the oldest yacht club in Africa. A good spot to admire the Durban fleet. Airbnb has a listing for cheap accommodation in the club house.
- Golden Mile
The high rolling beach that connects North Beach and South Beach is well known as challenging for surfers, and gets the occasional shark or even whale incursion. There is a shark net outside the breakers. Sharks can also be seen at the uShaka Marine World Aquarium. There's also a small surf museum on Lower Marine Parade.
- uMhlanga / Umhlanga
This is an upscale and generally crime free beach resort a few miles north of Durban, half way to the airport. I found it amusing in a way, because when I visited before Durban was the resort, popular with students in the Season (when the universities and colleges closed up for their long break) whereas uMhlanga was not considered a suitable location to visit. Now it almost appears to have swapped over, and is probably the more sensible place to stay particularly if staying for a few days before heading off into the many other attractions of KZN. The "hl" in the town's name should be pronounced with the Welsh rolled double l sound.

Getting around
Car hire is very popular in South Africa and fairly good value too. Taxis are the other option, and these are easy to use. Uber is also available, see post 1 for some comments.

Crime in Durban
South Africa has a bad crime problem and it is best addressed rather than hidden, it dominates everyday life in the cities and Durban isn't immune. The practical impact is that those with money tend to use cars or taxis to get between safe areas, even if the distance is walkable, and steer clear of known danger zones. Durban's crime rate sits between Cape Town and Johannesburg, and the murder rate is almost as bad as Detroit. Tourists aren't usually so exposed to this, but areas like the Central Business District - which is frankly somewhat run down - would not be sensible to visit late at night. It was in a fairly ramshackle state even 30 years ago and now suffers from "slumlords" - properties whose owners can't afford to update or modernise. You can't assume on a police presence. Daytime on the other hand should be fine in the CBD, with the usual sensible precautions, as are the out of town shopping areas and the more upmarket suburbs, where bars and restaurants are very much open to visitors late into the night. I didn't see any crime while I was there, but I was once politely approached to put away my telephone, to prevent it from being snatched.