Day 8.

Another early morning today and we were downstairs for breakfast at the hotel again at 6:15am.


We were picked up just after 7am again for our day trip south to Cafayate.


Just over an hour out from Salta and about halfway to Cafayate we stopped in the town of La Viña for pit stop.


And also bought some crackers for morning tea.


When then continued on Route 68, leading to the beginning of the Valles Calchaquíes (Calchaquí Valleys).


The vast and serenely beautiful Quebrada de las Conchas (Shell´s Gorge)


The ravine is geologically quite young, produced by tectonic movements that took place two million years ago.


Water and wind have since carved the towering red rock walls into unique and peculiar shapes.


As we got closer to Cafayate, we stopped at Vasija Secreta Winery.


The oldest winery in the region, Vasija Secreta dates back to the 18th century. Our tour of the winery was conducted in Spanish but our guide translated for us into English.


Some of the original oak barrels used for again. Apparently the very small door at the bottom was used for someone to climb inside for cleaning!


The wines produced in the region benefit from the low-humidity mild weather with average rainfall of less than 250 mm per year.


And some obligatory wine tasting. First starting with one of their torrontés white wines, the most characteristic type of wine cultivated in the area made from the white Argentine wine grape.


Described as "Organoleptically intense with notes of tropical fruits with a background to floral notes such as jasmine and rose", it was surprisingly refreshing and quite delicious!


And enjoying their very fine Cabernet Sauvignon, described as "...aromas of green pepper mixed with red fruits such as plum and cherries, accompanied by touches of tobacco and vanilla characteristic of the passage through oak barrels."


We then drove into the centre of Cafayate.


It was just after midday so we headed to Peña y Parrillada de la Plaza for lunch and enjoyed some delicious ravioli and cheese.


And the tasty chicken escalope.


We then stretched our legs for a stroll around Plaza 20 de Febrero.


A flag in the middle of the Plaza with a memorial for Guerra de las Malvinas.


Looking down on the Plaza in the centre of town.


Quebrada de las Conchas to the north where we drove through earlier.


East with the local vineyards stretching out to the mountains.


And a panorama to the south-west.


Our guide had recommended checking out the nearby Calchaquitos for their Alfajores.


Definitely an extensive collection!


We couldn't resist buying a few to takeaway.


Stopping at another restaurant on the Plaza.


And enjoying an afternoon espresso and café doble.


Another stop recommended was the local Heladaria (ice cream shop).


And trying their delicous Malbec-infused ice cream. It was quite strong and I'm sure we would have been tipsy if we had seconds!


An old Ford parked by the Plaza. We then met up with the group again to begin the journey back to Salta.


A weathered rock formation appropriately called 'The Palace'.


We then stopped to explore El Anfiteatro (The Amphitheatre).


A natural formation caused by rock eroded away from water flow off the mountain. Quite a surreal and beautiful location.


And a cool place for some gravity-bending photographs!


A short drive away was our final stop, Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat, although this one was not as impressive as the one at Iguazú), before starting the journey back to Salta.


We made it back to Salta at dusk just after 6pm.


The magnficent Iglesia San Francisco in the fading light.


After an evening walk we ended up at a local Havanna café.


And enjoyed a panini, quiche and coffee at the end of another great day exploring Salta Province.



Day 9.

Our last day in Salta and thankfully we got to enjoy a bit of sleep in this morning before heading downstairs for breakfast.


After checking out of hotel and storing our bags, we headed to the meeting point on Plaza 9 de Julio for the Salta free walking tour. They split us into English and Spanish speaking groups and our guide for today was Almero.


Outside Cabildo de Salta on the southern edge of Plaza 9 de Julio. Almero said that the building dated from 1700's during the Spanish colonial era. It is now home to two museums.


A couple of the local dogs greeting us enthusiastically! Almero said that local businesses give the dogs winter coats in exchange for advertising on them. The dog on the left was called Canelo (masculine form of Canela, or Spanish for Cinnamon) and he said it often followed him on the walking tours.


Our next stop was at the Iglesia San Francisco.


The first building on the location was built in 1625, rebuilt in 1674. It was again rebuilt after fire in the mid-eighteenth century.


Friendly Canelo following a group of school kids as they visit the church.


Continuing our walk down Calle Caseros. Also on the tour was Andy from Ontario. Quite an interesting guy who wrote software for blood splatter analysis. He was seeing some of Argentina before later attending a conference next week in Buenos Aires.


Outside Convento San Bernardo, built in the late sixteenth initially as a hospital but later converted into a convent for nuns.


It was quite interesting chatting to Andy about his profession and the intricacies of blood spatter analysis that result from gruesome murders. I had watched a real crime documentary on Netflix only a few days ago and Andy was well versed on the details of the case and the discredited blood splatter analysis. Definitely one of the more unusual chats with a fellow traveller while on vacation!

At a monument to Martín Miguel de Güemes, a military leader born in Salta who defended Argentina from the Spanish during the Argentine War of Independence in the early nineteenth century.


Walking back into the city centre where Canelo managed to find us again!


As we walked along Bartolomé Mitre the traffic was backing up and we could hear chanting in the distance.


Getting closer we realised it was due to protests outside the Dirección General de Inmuebles. Almero said that with high inflation (20+%) and other economic issues, regular protests were now quite common in Argentina.


And ending our tour in Plaza General Don Martín Miguel de Güemes where we thanked (and tipped) Almero for the great tour.


For lunch we headed to a café that Almero had earlier recommended, El Café del Convento. Coffee and a very sizable alfajores to share.


Followed by some tasty chicken and ham and cheese empanadas.


Some souvenir shopping.


Walking down Calle Alberdi. A lady holding a Argentinian flag for the soon to start World Cup match against Croatia.


At about 2pm we visited the Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña (Museum of High Mountain Archeology) on the recommendation of Almero. The museum is dedicated to the discovery of archaeological ruins on mountain tops first made in the 1950's.


In March 1999 during an expedition financed by National Geographic, the frozen bodies of a seven-year-old boy ( "El niño" ), a six-year-old girl ( "La niña del rayo" ) and a young fifteen-year-old woman ( "La maiden" ) were found on the summit of Llullaillaco Volcano.


The children were taken to the top of the mountain, fed alcohol to make them sleep and then buried alive as an Inca offering.

A photo of one of the mummies that are kept at the museum in a frozen, preserved state.


La niña del rayo.


After the very interesting and slightly morbid visit to the museum, we briefly joined the crowds at the start of the Argentina and Croatia World Cup group match.


We were a little worried about finding a taxi to the airport with World Cup match on, but luckily it didn't take long. The match was playing on the car radio and managed to hear a Croatia goal just before we pulled up at Martín Miguel de Güemes International Airport.


With our boarding passes after passing through security. The World Cup game was playing in the airport cafeteria and while it was packed with people it was awfully silent. I glanced at the screen as I was walking past and was surprised to see Croatia were up 3-0!


Boarding the LATAM Argentina A320 on time at 5:45pm.


Heading for take-off.


And some amazing views out the window as we make our way back to Buenos Aires.


A snack of bizcochos de arroz (rice biscuits) and a coke.


Flying over Buenos Aires on finals to Aeroparque Jorge Newbery. It was interesting to see the mix of sodium (yellow) and LED (white) streetlights below.


And catching a taxi into the city centre.


Our room for our one night stay at the Buenos Aires Lancaster on Avenida Córdoba. Only $71 and with its proximity (~400 meters) to the ferry terminal it was perfect for our short stay.


A short stroll away was the Galerías Pacífico on Avenida Córdoba. Originally built in 1889 and modelled on the Le Bon Marché. After having been abandoned for years, the building was renovated and re-opened in 1991 as the current shopping arcade.


For dinner we shared a burger and fries at Madison Café.


And then walked back to the hotel to get some sleep before an early morning tomorrow.