Day 3.

A Druk Air A319 taking off in the distance on the morning of day 3.


A banana smoothie with eggs and pancakes for breakfast.


At 8am I met up with Hem and Seren and we drove up Paro Valley to the starting point of the hike to Paro Taktsang, or also known as the Tiger's Nest Monastery. Walking sticks for rent for $1 at the entrance.


Horses waiting to ferry up less able hikers.


Paro Taktsang visible in the distance, sitting on the side of a sheer cliff and 900 metres above the floor of Paro valley.


At an elevation of 3,120 metres (10,240 ft), the monastery is often shrouded in clouds. Today however the sun was out with ample blue skies again.


The monastery was first built in 1692, around the cave where Indian Guru Padmasambhava is said to have meditated for three years, three months, three weeks, three days and three hours in the 8th century.

Inside the small buildings where water flowing down the hill spun large prayer wheels. Apparently the water that is touched by the wheel is said to become blessed.


Despite the elevation the hike was fairly easy going with the grade not too taxing.


Prayer wheels made from empty bottles that are spun by the wind.


A glimpse of the Paro Taktsang through the trees. Taktsang means "Tiger's lair", and it is believed that Guru Padmasambhava flew here from Tibet on the back of a tigress.


Colourful prayer flags along the side of the track.


After about 90 minutes of hiking we rounded a corner we were treated to the amazing view of one of Bhutan's most famous cultural icons.


Looking down Paro Valley as we descend down and across to the monastery.


At the entrance of the monastery where we had to store our camera's, phones and bags and then get a pat down to ensure we weren't sneaking anything in.


Inside we first visited the entrance to Dubkhang, the cave where Guru Padmasambhava meditated for three months. Just outside the cave was a statue of Dorje Drolo, one of the eight Manifestations the of Guru - in wrathful form riding upon a tigress with which he flew to Taktshang. The cave itself is opened for public viewing only once a year, and is said to hold the phurbu (ritual dagger) of the guru

We then visited the different Lhakhang or chapels. First was Guru Sungjonma Lhakhang, which has a central image of Pema Jungme, another of the eight manifestations of Guru Padmasambhava.

It was very interesting listening to Hem explain the background and significance of each of the Lhakhang, as well as insights into Buddhism practiced in Bhutan and its contrast with the Abrahamic faiths.

Another view of Paro Taktsang as we started our descent back down the mountain.


Some of the horses following us down.


And posing for a selfie with Hem at the end of a great hike.


Buying a souvenir to take home.


We then met up with Seren for the drive back down the valley.


For lunch we headed to a local house in Paro Valley.


happy


Some coffee to recaffeinate after the trek up to the monastery.


A potrait of the Royal family on the wall with the King and Queen with the young Crown Prince Jigme Namgyel Wangchuck.


Preparations under way in the kitchen.


A serving of red rice along with an array of tasty Bhutanese dishes.


And a portrait of my waitress with her dark blue silk wonju.


Our original plan after lunch was to visit Kyichu Lhakhang, originally built in the 7th century and one of the oldest temples in Bhutan. However when we pulled up a policeman outside said that it was closed as the Royal family was visiting.

Spinning prayer wheel. We instead then headed to Drukgyal Dzong, built over 400 years ago but almost completely restored by a fire in the 1950's .


Looking down a path to one of the dzong's defensive watchtowers.


Drukgyal Dzong (victories fortress) was built to commemorate Bhutanese victory over Tibetan-Mongol forces in 1644.


After laying in ruins for over 60 years, refurbishment of the dzong began in 2016 and was still in progress.


Descending down the ancient steps. Drukgyal Dzong is also on the UNESCO tentative World Heritage site list.


In the late afternoon we headed to a local farm which offered Bhutanese meals and the opportunity to enjoy a traditional wooden hot-stone bath.

The hot stones are first heated up in a fire until they are red hot.


The red hot stones are then placed into a chamber at the end of the wooden bath tub, purportedly releasing high concentrations of minerals.


Rows of sandals in the changing room. The baths were unisex so I was fortunate that I had brought my swimming trunks!


My wooden bath with Artemisia herbs (the source of Absinthe) sprinkled into the hot water.


And enjoyed a sublime 40-minute soak. Perfect for easing the aches after the hike earlier in the day.


Just outside some locals were playing, Khuru, a form of outdoor darts and a traditional Bhutanese sport. As with the archers I had seen in Thimphu, their accuracy was quite impressive.


As well as for fun, Hem said that they were also playing competitively for money.


At the farm restaurant where I was treated to some Ara, a Bhutanese rice wine similar to Japanese saké or Korean soju.


A photo on the wall of the King of Bhutan.


And enjoying a final Bhutanese dinner with Seren and Hem.


Hem was busy with an exam at the Ministry of Tourism tomorrow so after being dropped back at the hotel we said farewell and I thanked for him for the great and very enjoyable trip.


Day 4.

In the morning I walked up the hill to the airport lookout. A Druk Air ATR 42–500 in the distance taking off and on its way to Dhaka.


Pancakes, omelette and baby potatoes for breakfast.


Just after 9am Seren took me for the short drive to Paro Airport.


Using my last Bhutanese ngultrum for a cup of Himalayan Java coffee. The currency is pegged to the Indian rupee and I got given 100 rupees as part of my change.


The departure area was quite chaotic, with several morning flights leaving close together with everyone in the same waiting room and no indication of what flight was boarding apart from an occasional muffled call on the PA system.

Our 11:30am to Kathmandu was the last to be called and I finally made my way across the tarmac to the waiting A319.


And about to board after a fascinating and memorable trip to Bhutan!