Part 18: Back to Irkutsk for a last day in Siberia
Hotel: Ibis Irkutsk Center, 39 EUR/night without breakfast

After eating in my Lake Baikal hotel in the early morning and seeing again the bizarre sight of scores of Russians devouring hundreds of chicken nuggets for breakfast it was time to head back to Irkutsk. Conveniently, the minibus service back departs from the road right in front of my hotel. After waiting for a minute or 10 inside the vehicle, we departed without it even being a quarter full – which it would remain for the rest of the drive as nobody really got out or in in the villages along the ride this time.


Inside the empty minibus

The minibus dropped us off in front of the open-air market in Irkutsk, from where I hailed a taxi (2-3 EUR only) to cover the last bit of distance to my hotel. This time I booked another hotel in a different location of town, the Ibis Irkutsk Center. At 39 EUR/night it was a bit more expensive and did not have breakfast, but I figured I would grab something in the lounge the next day anyway before flying to Moscow.

The hotel itself is located close to the Angara River and the bridge linking the centre of Irkutsk with the train station across the water. Even though the location was great (city centre is just a short walk away) and I never felt unsafe, the neighbourhood was somewhat more akin to a construction yard/warehouse district and a bit less charming than the area I stayed in before. The hotel however made up for this by being vastly superior in amenities and its modern and fresh look, and I would definitely stay here again.


The Ibis Irkutsk Center as seen from the bridge over the Angara River


Standard room in the Ibis hotel


Good shower


View from the window

Having seen pretty much the entire city centre already in the prior days before heading out to Lake Baikal, I decided to take it easy. The only real bit of sightseeing would be a walk across the bridge to the train station as I was curious how it looked like (the Transsiberian always fascinated me and I love train travel). Today's weather was quite pleasant, not too cold, and a mixture of clouds and moments with the sun and blue skies breaking through.




Walking across the bridge over the Angara River




The railway yards along the river

The Irkutsk train station is not a big building and had a lovely old-fashioned feel with its magnificent blue-coloured facade. Just looking at the railway departure board and seeing trains to and from places such as Vladivostok, Ulan Ude, Chita and of course Moscow (five days away!) got me quite excited to do such a trip once.






Irkutsk's magnificent train station

It was then back across the river for some lunch. After eating some Mongolian, Russian and Georgian food in the past days I eyed another ethnic cuisine: Uzbek. The restaurant (Uzbekiston Restaurant) was a bit tricky to find. It's near the theatre/football stadium in a sort of entertainment complex. Ask the reception (you need to hang your jacket, which is quite customary for Russian restaurants) and they will escort you through the unsigned door to the basement.




Heading back across the river..








Some pictures taken en-route to the restaurant

The restaurant was beautiful once past the door – I didn't expect such a huge cavernous complex with different seating areas. It makes a wonderful place to eat really. Service was great, food was good and prices affordable (3 courses were 10-15 EUR including drinks).





I started with some manti (Uzbek dumplings), which were OK.


Uzbek manti

The plov (a traditional Uzbek rice dish) with chicken and pomegranate was however very good.


Uzbek plov

I had no clue what the dessert was.. I have to admit I solely ordered it from the Russian-language menu because it looked spectacular (the menu had pictures with each dish). The taste wasn't bad either, although I'm still not sure what it actually is!


The unidentified but cool looking dessert

After the meal, I went back to my hotel to finish up on some work. As after a while I was getting hungry again late in the evening, I also decided to try out the small on-site restaurant of my Ibis hotel, which was located in the lobby.


After stealing Crimea, Russia is now also appropriating Belgian, American, Dutch and Czech beers?


The house speciality of beef Stroganoff was however yummy

After the meal, I called it a day and read a bit more in my book before going to sleep. The next day would see again a long travel by plane to Moscow.

Conclusion: Siberia in winter exceeded my expectations. Not only was Lake Baikal amazing scenery-wise, but also Irkutsk a nice destination in its own right with a vibrant bar- and restaurant scene. I would love to come back as well once in Summer to see the contrast (temperatures can easily hit 30 degrees Celsius).

Also, it was not as cold as I expected. Sure, you have to prepare and take a good winter jacket with multiple layers, good gloves, hat etc. But weirdly, I found it much colder some years back in St. Petersburg in December due to the freezing, humid wind coming from the sea. Many locals here will tell the same: yes it's cold and temperatures are much lower than elsewhere, but the cold is more 'pleasant' than the one in Moscow or St. Petersburg. I can only say to those thinking to make a similar trip not to be intimidated by the cold temperatures. As long as you prepare for it, it's all fine!

Next up: Irkutsk Airport and flying with Aeroflot in business class to Moscow