Buried in the back of the mall portion of the world’s third tallest building (5th tallest structure) I found the entry for the Fairmont and went through a small security check before heading up to the lobby. Much like in Medina I didn’t expect to be granted check in at such an early hour, but the Fairmont staff didn’t even seem to notice. I was quickly given my room with a suite upgrade applied and I finally figured out the mess of elevators to get upstairs.
The Fairmont Hotel comprises the central and tallest tower, sitting beneath the world’s largest clock face
Abraj Al-Bait (The Towers of the House) is a seven-tower hotel complex complete with its own five-story mall
Abraj Al-Bait Mall
Bedroom
Master Bath
Wardrobe
Junior Suite Living Room
Second Bathroom (with shower)
God Forbids
Overlooking Al-Masjid Al-Haram from my room
89 meters tall
Prayers on the roof top – Filled during Hajj
In-room Haram audio allows you to worship from the comfort of your room
The prayer room (full floor) is said to provide the same reward to worshipers as those who are physically in Al Haram
I can’t begin to explain how excited I was to see the view of the Kaaba from my room, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. After dropping off my bags and checking out the room quickly, I headed out to complete my Umrah.
The primary objective of this trip was completing my Umrah. Since I was already in the state of Ihram, I only had three more steps (Tawaf, Sa’y and Halq) to accomplish. Much like my initial visit to Masjid Nabawi in Medina, I soaked in the experience without my typical travel belongings. This time I did bring a small book a brother from my masjid provided, explaining all of the specific prayers and actions required to complete the Umrah.
Al-Masjid Al-Haram
After renovations, there will be 11 minarets
First up is the Tawaf, or counterclockwise circling of the Kaaba. The masjid consists of three levels, including the ground floor around the Kaaba. Ideally you would begin your Tawaf at the Black Stone (eastern corner) and circle seven times, but construction limited the amount of people allowed downstairs at once. Not wanting to wait hours for an opportunity, I circled on the middle level. It added quite an amount of distance, but was shaded with ample Zam Zam (water) stations. For men the first three laps should be completed at a hurried pace and as you pass the Black Stone you recite the Takbir (Allahu Akbar) and point. Much like an airport, many elderly individuals were being pushed around in wheelchairs and the laborers made sure to rush the first three laps, narrowly missing many toes in the process. Men’s Ihrams are also only worn over one shoulder for this stage. Mohammad is thought to have kissed the Black Stone and it is generally accepted for others to do so as well.
Starting point of the Tawaf on the middle tier
Not the most scenic walkway
At least it’s shaded
Circling the Kaaba from the Black Stone on the corner with the door
Domes cover ¾ of the distance around for Tawaf
Looming from every direction, it was a great gauge of how far you have circled
Only opened in 2011, the skyline has changed dramatically over the last decade
Someday the skyline will be equally as tall in all directions
Construction underway on the mataaf to make the Zam Zam well more efficient
Following the Tawaf, two rakats are made as near to the Station of Abraham (Maqam Ibrahim) before beginning Sa’y. The second wife of Abraham, Hajar, was sent to the desert with her newborn son Ismail and when he began to cry, she began to run in a panic between Safa and Marwa Mountains. Following her seventh trip an angel revealed the Zam Zam well, explaining the source for Islamic holy water and the second act of Umrah. I made the symbolic ritual with a chilly airconditioned journey between the two “mountains” to bring me to the final step of my Umrah.
Safa Mountain
Dome over Safa
Chandelier
Saying the Takbir before ‘descending down’ from Safa
Approximately 450m (3.15km for the 7 trips)
Running in the green light zone
Dome over Marwa
Endless Zam Zam stations
Articles online indicate the water contains high levels of arsenic
Intended to indicate a willingness to glorify God over one’s image, each pilgrim is expected to make an offering of their hair. Women are only expected to trim an inch or so (taqsir) while men typically shave their heads (halq). My hair was rather long to begin with, so I mostly buzzed it, but opted to leave a bit. During Hajj people just get their hair buzzed in the street and use (hopefully clean) razors, but being the ‘offseason’ I was able to find a place that gets you in just as quick as they get you out.
Five minutes tops for my special request style
Following my 15 SAR haircut I grabbed some shawarma for 3 SAR and relaxed in the room until Jumah. Unlike my masjid, there was no English translation, so I got nothing out of the message. Throughout the afternoon many were napping on the prayer rugs between prayers. Contrasting the peaceful welcoming vibe from Al Haram in Medina, The Great Mosque of Mecca was not as comfortable. Only limited areas were climate controlled. Rugs were not common. Many areas were barricaded for construction and maintenance. The staff was actively cleaning, but it felt like the floors were regularly filthy.
Quick snack
Lots of sleepers
Green rugs in Mecca, but sparsely placed (Like loungers on a cruise ship, you had to claim your space early)
In the expanded (still expanding with a plan to build a roof by 2019) portion of the Grand Mosque I finally found a queue to enter the lower mataaf where you can circumambulate nearest the Kaaba. Current renovations of the Zam Zam well have forced them to limit the amount able to access, but the overall expansion will also greatly increase this space. For now, I would have to force my way in. A mob formed at the top of the stairs and it took every bit of force from the police to keep everyone back. Little by little they would let groups enter, but the pressure in which I was shoved was like nothing else. Holding back Niagara Falls would have been easier than getting caught up in the swarm of eager worshipers. At one point my feet were lifted off the ground and I had but no choice to hold my breath and hope I didn’t slip through the cracks for an inevitable trampling. I was uncomfortably shoved into a group of women but could do nothing to prevent it. Once circling the Kaaba I found a bit more space, but it was still hard to control where you went. I never was able to get near the Black Stone or Maqam Ibrahim but eventually succeeded in touching the Yemen Corner. (the others being Syria, Iraq and the Black Stone). The Black Stone predates Islam and is embedded into the corner nearest the door. Mohammad placed the stone within wall of the Kaaba before his revelations from Allah, and it is thought the rock was once part of a meteorite as a message from God. The Maqam Ibrahim is a stone (encased) that bears the imprint of Abraham’s feet from when it is said he helped construct the Kaaba.
Inside the expansion areas in the north of the mosque
Many domes with natural lighting
View while waiting to squeeze down to the mataaf
The Tawaf view from the mataaf
Its creation is disputed, but is believed to date back to Earth’s creation as a place of worship (possibly built by Adam and Eve as an alter)
Prior to Islam it was used to house deities for local Bedouin tribes to worship their Pagan gods
Measures 13.01m (H) x 11.03m (W) x 12.86m (L)
Grasping for the 7ft high base of the door
Yemen Corner
These doors were constructed in 1979, weighing 300 kg
The scrum to touch the Black Stone
Touching the Kiswah – The actual black cloth covering the Kaaba
The Kiswah is replaced every year and is said to cost over $4.5M USD
It wasn’t always black; it was once draped in white in the time of Muhammad
Maqam Ibrahim – Where Abraham stood to construct the Kaaba
I could only tolerate so much intrusion of my personal space and began the challenge of getting out. Like a fish going upstream and with the help of some very understanding individuals I was finally free. I decided for the rest of the afternoon I would spend it in a remote portion of the Mosque and the only other person I encountered was a very friendly Pakistani responsible for cleaning.
Marwa and Safa Towers flanking the Royal Clock Tower
A bit more breathing room up here
Beginning to line up for Asr
Women’s section
The Looming Tower
Cleaning crew
Later that evening when I was returning to my room I was accosted by a member of the Fairmont staff and told my camera was absolutely forbidden in the hotel. I agreed and went on my way, but found it odd since I wasn’t even taking a photo. Just before Isha I had a smash burger in the mall for 38 SAR. I think I was one of the last to order before the Azhan and all shops and restaurants quickly closed up until the prayers were concluded. It had been a wearing day and I called it a night shortly after.
Mecca at night
Maghrib prayer
Separate Men’s and Family lines
Good but overpriced
Closed for prayer