Thanks Pickles!
Would we do well to just wander around and get lost in the streets near Monzen-Nakachō Station or is there a particular area that's worth seeking out for the pre-war atmosphere that you've described above?
Do you recall the name of the old-school shotengai; is it just Monzen-Nakachō?
Thanks again!
Edit: Google to the rescue!
https://metropolisjapan.com/down-by-the-river/
Sounds perfect for the time of year that we're visiting! Our reservation is for 03/30 so that should be peak sakura blossom. Would 1hr be sufficient for exploring the neighborhood or would you suggest making an entire afternoon of it? Would nighttime (after dinner) be more atmospheric or would it just be quiet/empty streets?