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Old Feb 19, 2018, 7:18 pm
  #62  
shuigao
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Programs: HH Diamond, GHA Titanium
Posts: 1,961
Originally Posted by evergrn
I've been there, but it was so long ago that I can't really help you much with any up-to-date firsthand info. I just remember the mountain being massive, very cold; great onsen.
Originally Posted by evergrn
That's awesome! I hope you're glad with your decision to check out Zao. Seems like the volcano cooled down? Hope you're enjoying the onsen, as well.
Thouroughly enjoyed myself at Zao, thanks for the "vote of confidence" you gave it


Note1: I got lucky with 42cm on the 2days that I ski'ied (and 72cm of snowfall the 2 days before).
Note2: I'm probably an early/middle-intermediate at best, so I obviously don't know anything about the off-piste or expert terrain.

Pros:
- If, as a good tourist, you go on the weekdays, there are literally no queues for any of the lifts, so your ski time is limited only by the strength of your thighs.
- There's a good variety of courses and terrain that can keep an intermediate / (or even strong-beginner) occupied for easily 3 full days. There's a nice mix of wide, groomed slopes, narrow ones that snake down the side of the mountain, and scenic cruising runs (particularly the one among the Juhyo).
- Lift infrastructure isn't as bad as some other review sites make it seem. Sure, the gondolas are a little slow, and the 2-seater lifts have no safety bars, but at no time did I fear for my life or anything like that. Similarly, ski rental shops are widely available and are well stocked with decent condition gear.
- Skiing was great!
- Public onsens / baths around town were great (logistics of walking there in the freezing cold are a little tricky though).

Cons:
- Zao (and I guess all of Japan?) has a Green-Red-Black classification system, i.e. "Green" = European Green + Blue. So for beginners it's a little difficult to know which greens are 'early beginner' slopes and which ones are 'strong beginner' ones.
- Signage is a little lacking in some spots. Once I went down an easy green slope which ended with a fork, both of which were steep ungroomed blacks (I took off my ski's and walked back up the slope). On Day2 I was on a cruising green run which suddenly, with no warning, transitioned to a narrow, ungroomed, mogul section. Very weird.
- Although it's a single combined lift ticket, the mountain is run by 3 separate lift companies with 3 separate base areas, and very little effort made to link those 3 areas together properly. So traveling from Uwodanai (the North-most base area) to the Juhyo (snow monsters) course requires you to literally ski a couple of hundred meters on flat terrain, plus crab walk an upward slope to some of the lifts.
- Group lessons are available only in Japanese, and despite going on a weekday, both Zao Heim Ski School and Zao Ski School had no english-speaking instructors available.
- I thought Nozawa Onsen was quiet at night, but Zao takes it to another level. As far as I can tell, the entire village has 1 konbini, a handful of restaurants, and no bars. Also, ski-in/ski-out properties are FAR from town. If you choose to stay closer to town, and have your own ski's, it's a 300+m uphill walk to the lifts, which sucks (if you rent you can store your ski's overnight at the rental shop of course).

Oddly I listed more cons than pros, but really, the mountain more than makes up for them. Would totally consider a return trip in the next season(s).
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