Recently had the tasting menu with premium wine pairings at Sketch (Lecture Room & Library) in London, which has 2 Michelin stars. Chef is Pierre Gagnaire, who runs an eponymous 3 star in Paris.

The decor, ambience, and service were all fantastic. As was the wine. But the food was very disappointing. The only truly delicious course for me was the first course, which was squid ink tagliolini with oscietra caviar and gambero rosso. Beautifully done. But all the rest was very creative but just didn't wow me in terms of taste. I also don't really see the logic in presenting 3 distinct plates at one time for one course--all that happens is that the food becomes lukewarm. I understand that's part of chef Pierre Gagnaire's style but I'd prefer each bit be served individually. I also got palate fatigue with 6 different desserts plus petit fours. Too much sweet for my tastes.

Two different wine pairings were offered: one for 110 GBP and a prestige pairing for 175. With the prestige pairing, just two of the six wines were different. However, these two different wines were both very hard to find, and mind-blowing. One of them was Chateau de Beaucastel "Vieilles Vignes" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2008, made from the Roussanne grape. Wow. Beautiful browning gold color, and nose/palate of everything: almonds, apples, honey, minerals, mushrooms, truffles, and more. It kept evolving in the glass and the last sip was bittersweet. This might have been the most enjoyable glass of white wine I have ever drunk. This was paired with "sea urchin prepared three ways." The other prestige wine was Sauternes paired with the dessert, and was actually two wines in one: Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2009 "Lyrique" and Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2009 "Pasion." Sketch bought all the bottles of each of these special and limited wines, and serves glasses side by side of each with the dessert, each in custom-engraved Lalique glasses!

I should also mention that even the "basic" wine pairings were phenomenal! For instance the first wine was Benoit Ente's "Clos de la Truffieres" Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2014. The Champagne trolley for aperitifs is also one of the best I've encountered--both Cristal 2006 and Krug Rose NV are offered by the glass! I indulged in a glass of the Cristal.

I am torn as to whether to return to Sketch. If I did it would solely be because of the wine and setting, and with the hope that a future seasonal menu has flavors that pop and wow more.

Next week will try the Menu Prestige with wine pairings at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay (3 stars), also in London. I'm expecting a far better experience for my palate with the food, though I think Ramsay's food is far more classic and less inventive.