Shortly leaving on a French trip that will include the following 1*s:
Le Georges (Chartres)
Claude Darroze (Langon)
Christian Etienne (Avignon)
Les Chênes Verts (Tourtour)
L'Aspérule (Auxerre)
and possibly others too. We have eaten at all these before, in some cases many times, except for L'Aspérule where Keigo Kimura started in 2014 and achieved a star in exactly one year, and is new to us. (We had many happy times at Barnabet in a previous era.)
Le Georges now has a new menu, and Christian Etienne is now under new ownership but apparently continuing the tradition of the eponymous founder. Will be interested to see how they compare with previously. Bajade retired from Les Chênes Verts and then returned to the stoves. Think he is still there this year. Has had a star for absolutely years, and deservedly.
Le Georges, Chartres: hotel lovely (they have upgraded it), dinner a bit disappointing. Only a 7- or 5-course set menu offered. No à la carte. If there's anything you don't want, you lose a course — no substitutes. Service was not up to scratch. Lunch at the Monarque on the cathedral square the next day was fabulous.
Claude Darroze, Langon: We paid more for our room this time but got an inferior room compared with our previous visit. Dinner was great, well up to standard (we ordered à la carte), and service was excellent. Breakfast the next day: if you want a cooked eggs option, you need to ask for it. Nowhere is this indicated. We discovered it by watching others!
Christian Etienne, Avignon: I had been worried about a possible drop in standards since the departure of the eponymous founder. I need not have worried. If anything, the former sous-chef has improved on his master. The 7-course Menu de Tomates was sublime. I would recommend this magical spot to anyone. Possibly my favorite 1* restaurant in the whole of France
Les Chênes Verts, Tourtour: Bajade is still there, and both cuisine and service are as impeccable as ever. All that is lacking is a cheese option instead of dessert, and a slightly larger wine list (but the wines we drank were excellent).
In the end, we did not get to
L'Aspérule in Auxerre. That will have to keep for another trip.